What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I have just been reading the Norton factory method of truing the front wheel. A bit unconventional, but makes perfect sense with the spoke pattern used.

1. With all the spokes loose, the wheel is placed disk flange on the floor then stand on the rim to force it over to the disc side
2. Put wheel in stand and tension disc side inner spokes, these are almost flat to the hub and are used to set the rim to eliminate hop and egg.
3. Tension the outer disc side spokes to eliminate run out, this will pull the rim over towards the disc side.
4. Tension the inner and outer non disc side spokes to pull the rim into the correct offset position.
 
Discovered the clutch centre was notched and ordered a new one from Constant @HNW, and so took the opportunity to tap out the original FAG Germany bearing to replace with a new one (which is now in the freezer)...

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
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I ran a string from the rear loop, around the headstock and back to the rear loop. I set the strings centrally in the rear loop, the same distance apart as at the headstock and parallel to each other.
With the shocks off I lifted the rear wheel until it touched the string. It is exactly in line with the top tube
 
I did this exact method with the freezer and heat in a different application though. When I pulled the bearing out of the freezer it immediately covered in white frost which wouldn't wipe off. I dropped it in anyway but wondered if the condensation would cause future issues removing it
 
BERT said:
I did this exact method with the freezer and heat in a different application though. When I pulled the bearing out of the freezer it immediately covered in white frost which wouldn't wipe off. I dropped it in anyway but wondered if the condensation would cause future issues removing it
Click to expand...

I don't know if it will cause a removal issue further down the line.

To be honest, the 50+ years old original was fine and wobble free, I just changed it because I was there and I had a new one. I have a feeling I won't be changing this one (in this lifetime).
 
After removing the original clutch location circlip, I spent some time rubbing down circlip No: 060872. I managed to get it over the shaft and into the groove ok, but wasn't happy with how it sat in the recess of the spacer....

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

...so I abandoned trying another one and slipped a new circlip No: 060752 back on...

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
The whole point is to get it tight into the shaft slot . Use a small punch to seat fully home after the thinning . It is a harder material steel , which is what you want .
Andover should get on it and have them as a better replacement .
 
Torontonian said:
The whole point is to get it tight into the shaft slot . Use a small punch to seat fully home after the thinning . It is a harder material steel , which is what you want .
Andover should get on it and have them as a better replacement .
Click to expand...
I gave it a few taps on a punch but ultimately I don't think I'd thinned it quite enough.
 
CHanged the isos on a new to me mk2 850 with original candy red paint and less than 9K original miles. However much of the rubber has perished due to what was likely poor storage conditions. Engine runs great though.
First time I had ever changed isos without cradle out of the frame and I was a little surprised how easy is was. Used original rear iso parts but vernier front iso. Removed rear iso shaft after about 3 weeks of repeated kroil while on side. removed shaft and used engine hoist to raise back of frame, removed front shaft and shifted engine forward a bit and then iso came out relatively easily with fork tube and hammer.
Next problem is the missing rear support for the oil tank. Need to buy some parts. Plan to have this bike running for INOA Norton Blue Ridge Thunder rally. Best to all.
 
I replaced my alternator stator and took it around the block for a test. As soon as I hit the second corner my bike died in the worst possible area of a merge lane on a 50 mph street. Thankfully there was a police car directly behind me. He jumped out and asked me if I needed some help. He offered to stay behind me and keep me protected while I pushed my bike 1/4 mile to the gas station. Shout out to the nice cops out there.
 
Torontonian said:
It takes up to 2 hrs . of sanding down circularly on a flat plane to get the snug fit .
Finger tips should be protected
Click to expand...
When I do my circlips, I took a US ten cent coin, a "dime" and attached it to a piece of wood about 1"x1"x4" long. Cut square of course. Attach the dime to the 1"x1" end with just a tad of whatever will hold it there. The circlip fits snuggly over the dime. Perfect fit. Sand away on flat surface. Circlip easily removed to check thickness/fitment. You still have your fingertips, and it only takes about 20 minutes. I believe a Canadian "dime"/ 10 cent piece may be similar in diameter. Check it out.
 
Finished Penetroling from of the survivor original paint bike I am working on. Will put the new vernier front iso and david taylor headsteady in and reinstall the battery tray tomorrow (i hope).
 

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