What did you do with your P11 today. he he

Today I cut 5/32" off my kick(side) stand and soldered the foot back on with silver solder and a propane torch. The silver solder does actually hold the foot on and survive the small amount of abuse it gets. It's not a stock P11 side stand. More of a chromed square stick. I helped some, but I may have to do it again if I decide to drop the suspension more front and rear.

I was hoping to make a video to post on Youtube of the engine idling and me blipping the throttle. Idle has a lope to it with the JS2 cam and the exhaust note blipping the throttle is a little different with the barely baffled 2 into 1 exhaust. It doesn't sound like a typical street Norton to me. Unfortunately for my one still functioning brain cell, making video with the Youtube app is not quit as intuitive as I would like it to be. I did make 2 video shorts, but I did them both in landscape mode which makes them useless for viewing because landscape video shorts get cropped and put into portrait orientation. I need to shoot standard video. I'll get around to doing it right eventually.

Forgot I'll be working a little more on my intake manifolds for the FCRs tomorrow.

Schwany said:

I'm really slow at making those because I don't have the tools to do it in high volume.

Couple of notes: If one has the tools, it would make a lot of sense to just cut one out of 3/8" aluminum sheet. 3/8" of spacer has better clearance. Other modifications may be required. For example, the footrest hardware has to be reshaped to clear the outer cover hump on a P11. The N15CS has different footrest hardware and might work without the modification.

This too: Out of the 14 socket head bolts (AN calls them screws) I have only 6 are actually long enough to hold the outer cover on relatively securely. Minimum length would be 1.25". 1.5" length would be better. The 1/4"-26 x 1.5" stainless socket head bolts are $5 per from vendors that carry them. I'm not broke or on a tight budget, but I refuse to pay $5 per for those little bolts. So I might install helicoils in the inner cover and go to an easy to find on Amazon socket head bolt in 1/4". Might cost a dollar less than $5 per by the time I get done, but I'd have bolts I could easily get and stronger threads in the inner cover.

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There is a company called SENDCUTSEND that you could contact or go on their site and get a quote. Heard of this site from swooshdave in a video and it looks like a great site to consider for small run stuff. If you have a file of this it would be really easy, or maybe a drawing. I for one would consider one, my G15 that I'm building would love a Commando clutch. https://sendcutsend.com/materials/ Their prices seem very reasonable to me.

Hortons Norton said:

There is a company called SENDCUTSEND that you could contact or go on their site and get a quote. Heard of this site from swooshdave in a video and it looks like a great site to consider for small run stuff. If you have a file of this it would be really easy, or maybe a drawing. I for one would consider one, my G15 that I'm building would love a Commando clutch. https://sendcutsend.com/materials/ Their prices seem very reasonable to me.

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Looks like a good resource.

I don't have any CAD drawings and no plans to create any. Best I could do is send them a gasket and say copy this in 3/8" aluminum or some other less expensive material.

Somebody else will have to pursue that small market opportunity.

If the stock clutch gives me trouble I may ask them about it, I know there may be other clutches that I can look at. Both my Atlas and Combat have the RGM belt drive and both work very well, and I can be a bit hard on them. The reason I asked is your work looks to be made from a machine, Nice work. Thanks.

Hortons Norton said:

If the stock clutch gives me trouble I may ask them about it, I know there may be other clutches that I can look at. Both my Atlas and Combat have the RGM belt drive and both work very well, and I can be a bit hard on them. The reason I asked is your work looks to be made from a machine, Nice work. Thanks.

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The work is not that nice, but close enough. Computer aided machine made would get the bolt holes lined up perfectly. I end up reworking several of the holes for the bolts. A few of them are a hair off and need some additional clearance.

I started my P11 today. Always a bit exciting to fire it up after letting it sit for a few weeks.

No riding though. It's 40F degrees out there and raining. I do not ride anything built in the 60's in the rain if I can help it.

I retorqued the head and adjusted the valves 3 weeks ago and didn't start it then. Figured it was about time to start it and wake up the graveyard shift.

Re-installed an oil pressure gauge. Wanted to be sure I was getting oil pressure at the rocker spindles after fooling around with the cam and having the timing cover off. Exhaust side around the springs and valve stem tops doesn't look as wet as it used to. Also checked my spindle orientation. To be honest I'm not sure what the spindle orientation should be for a top oiler head that gets the oil from the timing cover like a Commando, and not like an old pre-Commando. Spindle flats are facing the valve cover. Spindles look good and are not scored. Must be working.

60 psi cold idle and closer to 40 psi idling warmed up. Oil is getting to the gauge anyway.

Pic with the engine not running.

Swapped some head bolts out. Bolts went into Molnar 750 barrels.

Removed the 6-point 3/8-20 bolts shown below.



Installed the shiny bolts shown below. Heads on the bolts are 3/8" 12 point. Bolts are 3/8-20

Schwany said:

Swapped some head bolts out. Bolts went into Molnar 750 barrels.

Removed the 6-point 3/8-20 bolts shown below.

Installed the shiny bolts shown below. Heads on the bolts are 3/8" 12 point. Bolts are 3/8-20

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Oooh, aaah nice!

Schwany said:

Swapped some head bolts out. Bolts went into Molnar 750 barrels.

Installed the shiny bolts shown below. Heads on the bolts are 3/8" 12 point. Bolts are 3/8-20

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How was thread fit?

-Knut

mdt-son said:

How was thread fit?

-Knut

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The thread fit with the bolts I used is good for "me"

You should try out a set for yourself if you are working with the same barrels and want to use reduced shank 12-point 3/8-20 bolts. My thoughts about anything may not align well with anyone else's.

The final corrections for these bolts have been made at the other end now. I'm keeping what I have which is one step away from the final sizing. They do not back off that easily once torqued down nor wiggle around before being torqued down. I removed and retorqued the new bolts just to be sure they didn't bring the threads in the barrels out with them. Success!! Good enough for me. I used ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant on all the bolts on this engine or any engine I might be playing with. I have several packages of it from different ARP bolt kits and it does the job.

Schwany said:

You should try out a set for yourself if you are working with the same barrels and want to use reduced shank 12-point 3/8-20 bolts. My thoughts about anything may not align well with anyone else's.

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I've decided I am done with sloppy bolts. I will fit inserts and 3/8"UNC bolts.

Schwany said:

The final corrections for these bolts have been made at the other end now.

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What do you mean?

- Knut

mdt-son said:

I've decided I am done with sloppy bolts. I will fit inserts and 3/8"UNC bolts.


What do you mean?

- Knut

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The 3/8-20 bolts I have are not sloppy at all. I thought you knew where I sourced the bolts. Although I don't think I mentioned where I got them in this thread. See this thread. The sizing corrections are being done where the bolts came from. Doesn't matter one way or the other though since you are going to fit 3/8 UNC inserts. If I had the machinery to accomplish the task, I would have installed inserts for the cNw head bolts I have sitting in a plastic bag in a roll away tool chest drawer. I figured drilling the 3/8-20 holes out for inserts with a hand drill would be a huge mistake.

Went for a little test ride today to see how the pretty 12-point reduced shank 3/8-20 head bolts hold things together. No leaks yet, but I only rode for 11 miles or so. I was not being very nice to the engine though. I did want to see if the compression and higher revs holding gears would push out some hot oil under the head past the head gasket and the barrel surface. I rode the P11 like it was manufactured in Japan and the speed limits only apply to everyone else. It stayed together and did not show any leaks. Probably need to run up the Hwy for 8 miles or so between 70-90mph to see if it will start weeping. Maybe tomorrow.