What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I have just been reading the Norton factory method of truing the front wheel. A bit unconventional, but makes perfect sense with the spoke pattern used.

1. With all the spokes loose, the wheel is placed disk flange on the floor then stand on the rim to force it over to the disc side
2. Put wheel in stand and tension disc side inner spokes, these are almost flat to the hub and are used to set the rim to eliminate hop and egg.
3. Tension the outer disc side spokes to eliminate run out, this will pull the rim over towards the disc side.
4. Tension the inner and outer non disc side spokes to pull the rim into the correct offset position.

Discovered the clutch centre was notched and ordered a new one from Constant @HNW, and so took the opportunity to tap out the original FAG Germany bearing to replace with a new one (which is now in the freezer)...

I ran a string from the rear loop, around the headstock and back to the rear loop. I set the strings centrally in the rear loop, the same distance apart as at the headstock and parallel to each other.
With the shocks off I lifted the rear wheel until it touched the string. It is exactly in line with the top tube

Oven and freezer provide the perfect drop-in...

I did this exact method with the freezer and heat in a different application though. When I pulled the bearing out of the freezer it immediately covered in white frost which wouldn't wipe off. I dropped it in anyway but wondered if the condensation would cause future issues removing it

BERT said:

I did this exact method with the freezer and heat in a different application though. When I pulled the bearing out of the freezer it immediately covered in white frost which wouldn't wipe off. I dropped it in anyway but wondered if the condensation would cause future issues removing it

Click to expand...

I don't know if it will cause a removal issue further down the line.

To be honest, the 50+ years old original was fine and wobble free, I just changed it because I was there and I had a new one. I have a feeling I won't be changing this one (in this lifetime).

After removing the original clutch location circlip, I spent some time rubbing down circlip No: 060872. I managed to get it over the shaft and into the groove ok, but wasn't happy with how it sat in the recess of the spacer....



...so I abandoned trying another one and slipped a new circlip No: 060752 back on...

The whole point is to get it tight into the shaft slot . Use a small punch to seat fully home after the thinning . It is a harder material steel , which is what you want .
Andover should get on it and have them as a better replacement .

Torontonian said:

The whole point is to get it tight into the shaft slot . Use a small punch to seat fully home after the thinning . It is a harder material steel , which is what you want .
Andover should get on it and have them as a better replacement .

Click to expand...

I gave it a few taps on a punch but ultimately I don't think I'd thinned it quite enough.