Saber,Set valve clearances, polished valve covers and installed new shiny nuts, checked head bolts torque (motion pro wrench holder for torque readings is nice), new spark plugs, knocked surface rust off some steel bolt heads. A good therapy session.
Isn't that other washer there to 'protect' the softer locking washer from the nut?? I think (hope) Baz might chime in?
I had to dress my seal down slightly but it all fitted okay
It was commoz that pointed out the tab washer is too soft and pressure from the nut starts to cut through it
So the clutch center merrily wears the splines out
Nord-Lock Washer Torqued to 35 ta 40 lbs...Hmm, the more I ponder on this, the more I feel like I'll always have a concern that removing the washer (063447) was a bad move
Bellville washer?
I spotted your pic earlier Shane.Nord-Lock Washer Torqued to 35 ta 40 lbs...
I also realised that I bent the three sides over the tab washer over the nut instead of just the one, as per the manual.
I use the Twin Nord-Lock washer ...no lock tab... no lock tab support washer...they are not that cheap but keen to know if someone knows of a better lock washer.. I'd be very interested..I spotted your pic earlier Shane.
What depth is the Nord-Lock washer?
I also realised that I bent the three sides over the tab washer over the nut instead of just the one, as per the manual. Luckily I have spares tab washers and I haven't fitted the chain case cover yet.
In my opinion, the three tabs are arranged so the one that aligns best with a flat is used. The manual instructions, however, say to "Squeeze the centre portion of the tab washer to 2 flats of the nut (late models)..." so does that mean bending up two tabs of the "centre portion" or the central tab over the corner so it is in contact with "2 flats"?
Bending the other two as well isn't going to matter but they won't align with a flat.Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts
Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.andover-norton.co.uk
Good to know Les cheers.
I won't bother replacing mine in that case
I need to replace the failed speedometer light and the tachometer light is very dim. Is your bike positive ground and what LED lights did you use that were just a swap out for the OEM lamps?I finished my project to get my clutch working properly.
Having replaced the clutch centre and fitted new Barnett plates, I adjusted the clutch stack height today, and its made an enormous difference to the feel at the lever. Its now substantially lighter.
The stack height was 3mm short of ideal, so I swapped 2 x 2mm std steel plates with a 3mm and a 4mm RGM steel plates, and reassembled everything, now it only takes two fingers to pull the clutch lever to the bar. Amazing.
If I get time later today, I will replace the clutch cable, but it doesn't really seem to need it ... but maybe with the new cable it will only need 1-finger to operate the clutch ?
Also, I replaced a failed tachometer lamp, using the first LED on the bike. These things are super bright, and a nice crisp white colour, so much brighter that the original bulb, luckily I bought two, the difference is very noticeable.
I'm really impressed with the new Lucas LEDsI need to replace the failed speedometer light and the tachometer light is very dim. Is your bike positive ground and what LED lights did you use that were just a swap out for the OEM lamps?
Its a +ve earth bike, the LEDs are Lucas, and just swapped straight in. They only cost £2 each from RGM. The dials are now so bright you can see if the lights are on by looking at the dial, that never used to happen before. The lights are off to the left of the dials, so illumination is mainly on the left, arguably that is ok, its a Norton, so you are normally doing low revs, and I rarely travel at speeds over on the right of the speedo, and if I did, I really wouldn't be looking at the dialsI need to replace the failed speedometer light and the tachometer light is very dim. Is your bike positive ground and what LED lights did you use that were just a swap out for the OEM lamps?
The old cable was one I installed in the 70s, and it has been pulling a very stiff clutch, so is due retirement. I had a spare already in place cable tied to the working one, both have been removed now.Depending on the age/condition of the old cable, it might be good piece of mind to install the new one, and then you have a spare for your tool bag in the unlikely event of a break
I popped a Venhill superlight in and it was exactly the right size.
I've been doing very similar mods to you by the look of it