What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I read that some riders keep another clutch cable in line with the other in case of a break, though I don't think I've ever seen any other bikes with a piggy back cable.

I'd like to think this new set up will be reliable, given how light it feels, but is it worthwhile keeping the other cable in situ, just in case?

If so, how des one protect it from the elements and keep it tidy rather than flapping in the wind?
 
Bonzo said:
I read that a few riders keep another clutch cable in line with the other in case of a break, though I've never seen any other bikes with a piggy back cable.

I'd like to think this new set up will be reliable, given how light it feels, but is it worthwhile keeping the other cable in situ, just in case?

If so, how des one protect it from the elements and keep it tidy rather than flapping in the wind?
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I stuck a fat anodized alloy pressure plate in mine years ago to alter the stack height after years having a left forearm looking like Popeye the sailor🤣 from heavy clutch action to a one finger clutch...I thought I was in heaven 🤣 ...the lighter the action the less likely you will have a problem with it again
 
Bonzo said:
I read that a few riders keep another clutch cable in line with the other in case of a break, though I've never seen any other bikes with a piggy back cable.

I'd like to think this new set up will be reliable, given how light it feels, but is it worthwhile keeping the other cable in situ, just in case?

If so, how des one protect it from the elements and keep it tidy rather than flapping in the wind?
Click to expand...

It's easy enough to whip the tank off to change the cable so I carry it in my pack of tools and spares.

I suggest you road-test the new stack height before heading out too far to check there's no slip under hard acceleration as a lighter clutch action is only achieved by losing some spring clamping pressure.
I wouldn't expect the 3mm plate to be a problem but you never know.
 
Bonzo said:
I read that some riders keep another clutch cable in line with the other in case of a break, though I don't think I've ever seen any other bikes with a piggy back cable.

I'd like to think this new set up will be reliable, given how light it feels, but is it worthwhile keeping the other cable in situ, just in case?

If so, how des one protect it from the elements and keep it tidy rather than flapping in the wind?
Click to expand...
I used to do this when I went for 3000+ miles holidays across Europe in the 70s/80s. I used cable ties to keep the two cables together, but pushed the gearbox end upwards behind the oil tank to get it out of sight.

At the lever end, I pushed a ball-point pen cap over the end to make it look tidier. The whole thing is then really unobtrusive. I did the same with throttle cables. Over about 10 years, I never needed to swap to the backup cable.

A much lighter clutch will put much less strain on the clutch cable, so a backup shouldn't be needed. I've just got my bike back on the road after a 30 year break, currently project is making the clutch lighter, when that is done I will remove the backup cable.
 
Bonzo said:
Took the clutch plates out & gave them a clean with brake cleaner, while I was in there I installed the clutch rod seal - had to remove the rear washer to get enough thread without the CRS bottoming out on the clutch nut. Talking of the clutch nut, it was loose - not hand loose (?!), but I didn't need much force to start it.

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I also replaced one of the plates with the 3mm RGM plate. With the 3mm plate, I was only just able to get the retaining circlip in - no way would a 4mm go.

I intended to finish the job off with a Venhill F/L cable, but hit a snag :( The diaphragm isn't moving.

But I'm goosed and will look at it tomorrow.
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Isn't that other washer there to 'protect' the softer locking washer from the nut?? I think (hope) Baz might chime in?
I had to dress my seal down slightly but it all fitted okay :)
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Isn't that other washer there to 'protect' the softer locking washer from the nut??


I had to dress my seal down slightly but it all fitted okay :)
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, mine didn't, if I remember correctly I removed the washer.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Isn't that other washer there to 'protect' the softer locking washer from the nut?? I think (hope) Baz might chime in?
I had to dress my seal down slightly but it all fitted okay :)
Click to expand...
These Nord-Lock washers are the business...along with the mainshaft seal
IMO
 

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The Dyno Dave instructions say you can remove it to gain thread.

I put some blue loctite on the centre nut and CRS, so hoping I'm OK ;)
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Isn't that other washer there to 'protect' the softer locking washer from the nut?? I think (hope) Baz might chime in?
I had to dress my seal down slightly but it all fitted okay :)
Click to expand...
It was commoz that pointed out the tab washer is too soft and pressure from the nut starts to cut through it
So the clutch center merrily wears the splines out
 
With 2 ‘important‘ jobs to do, today I started to pull the whole of the rear end apart. Yes, obviously it’s time to see why the horn’s not working. There’s plenty of power getting down to the 2 terminals so the horn needs to come out. Whoever ‘designed’ it to be located where it is deserves to be named and shamed. :mad:

so as I’m in the general area I’ll add my herringbone hoses to the oil tank and filter. Did the same pillock ‘design’ the tank and filter setup as well as the horn? :mad:

With the horn in the bench it’s nbg as expected, I’ve got an air horn I’ll see if I can find space for, otherwise I’ll just fit a new automotive one.

Hoses fitted, now it’s time for a sandwich and a cuppa with my feet up, it is lazy Sunday after all ;)
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
Flatspot said:
I rebuilt the stock front caliper along with new hose and rather than rebuild the stock master cylinder I fitted the smaller AN version after reading on here about its benefits.

Being used to double discs and single finger braking from my jap bikes I was scared sh#t less with the lack of stop from my Norton. Adding the Madass adaptor, caliper and disc has given me less to worry about - it’s still not great but at least I don’t need to book in advance my desire to stop.

The Trident is equally as bad, but at least there are ‘simple’ double disc options to help.
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Yeah, same here re my double disc FJR, although the G3 Matchless has kept me aware and mindful of extended stopping distances!
I was particularly interested if you found any noticeable improvement after fitting the AN master cylinder upgrade only, using the stock disc and wheel caliper. Of course you may have fitted the upgraded disc and front caliper at the same time so just experienced braking with the complete upgraded system.
 
No I fitted the smaller cylinder as part of the resurrection process of the bike, and so my only experience of minimal retardation was with that one. My experience riding the Trident showed me that more money needs to be spent in that one too.
 
Cheers. The red paint isn’t down to me, also the Norton in the timing chest is red - I assumed it was stock bearing in mind what I know of its history being ex-display for most of its life, and owned for the previous 15 years by its owner - now deceased - who did its 10,000 miles before I acquired it.
 
I started to make an exhaust nut wrench for the alloy RGM nuts. These are on the 920. I have a standard single peg exhaust wrench which works fine on chromed or bronze nuts. The single peg wrench will break the fins on the light aluminium nut long before the nut is fully tightened.
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What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
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The wrench works very well, why didn't I make that before breaking a fin on the RGM alloy nuts?

A recheck of the oil after 3 weeks of sitting shows no change, the level is still half way between the marks, as intended.
This is just with the MK3 set up, but all new bits in the timing cover, which is a NOS Rabers item. The oil pump is a used one. It is the original that I purchased along with the crankcases.

Makes me wonder if I should renew some things on the 850.

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