What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

It was a beautiful, sunny 85F day, perfect for a ride. My destination was a bike shop (Morrie’s Place) about 200 mi. from my house. I checked their hours but when I arrived they were closed for the day. Unknown why. Grrr! I’m happy to report though that I rode 420 mi. there and back today. My average speed on the highway was approximately 75/80 mph - probably 3/4 the distance. The bike ran great, never missed a beat. This ride was my first longish distance ride and it didn’t disappoint. As my bike is a MK3 Roadster, I’m also happy to report that I only had to hit the reserve tap just once before I quickly found a gas/petrol station. Lol! The bike faired well, I, on the other hand, feel a wee bit sore. My neck, back, ass and legs are all aching right now. I’ve noticed that with the right footrest and the kick start positioned the way they are my right leg is winged out a little bit and is catching quite a bit of air at times. Very fatiguing. Anyone else notice this? Other than my whole body ache it was a perfect day. Ride safe!
 
Bonzo said:
The RGM T160 style kick starter is calling out to you, Larry ;) 👍
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Thinking about taking the kicker off altogether. If the bike won’t start with the little green button it probably won’t with the kicker anyway. Lol!
 
Larry S said:
It was a beautiful, sunny 85F day, perfect for a ride. My destination was a bike shop (Morrie’s Place) about 200 mi. from my house. I checked their hours but when I arrived they were closed for the day. Unknown why. Grrr! I’m happy to report though that I rode 420 mi. there and back today. My average speed on the highway was approximately 75/80 mph - probably 3/4 the distance. The bike ran great, never missed a beat. This ride was my first longish distance ride and it didn’t disappoint. As my bike is a MK3 Roadster, I’m also happy to report that I only had to hit the reserve tap just once before I quickly found a gas/petrol station. Lol! The bike faired well, I, on the other hand, feel a wee bit sore. My neck, back, ass and legs are all aching right now. I’ve noticed that with the right footrest and the kick start positioned the way they are my right leg is winged out a little bit and is catching quite a bit of air at times. Very fatiguing. Anyone else notice this? Other than my whole body ache it was a perfect day. Ride safe!
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Larry,
I love to hear guys going long mile trips with their Nortons.That is one of my favorite things about riding motorcycles.A 400 mile day with no problems!Good for you.
Mike
 
YING said:
Larry,
I love to hear guys going long mile trips with their Nortons.That is one of my favorite things about riding motorcycles.A 400 mile day with no problems!Good for you.
Mike
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Wow! Larry, that is quite the distance and quite the speed. I don't know when I'll be able to ride at that speed let alone for that much of a distance. I get nervous around 55 with the wind that's hitting me. I couldn't imagine being on a interstate at 75 with trucks and other cars doing 90 around me with their compression-induced wind and drafting going on. Well done amigo. You are definitely a good/brave rider on these Nortons.

As for the right leg thing, I had that experience too with my right leg bowed out with the original kick start lever. I put on that RGM one that was written about a few months back and it solved that. My kick start is easier now, and my right leg sits nice and squarely on the peg as a result of the RGM lever sitting more snug against the bike. You might want to look into that lever as a replacement if you can get over the fact that isn't curvy to match the rest of the curves of these sexy bikes.
 
ashman said:
Most clutch cables fail at the handle bar adjuster back in my early days on my Commando I went through clutch cables regularly until I started putting a dab of grease on the lever pivit and adjuster since doing that have never broken a cable since ever oil change and a fresh dab of grease on the end of the cable and a Venhill cable for smooth running I still use the dab of grease at the ends of the cable.
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Venhill recommends using a tiny bit of grease just at the ends and no lube for the main cable, so you are on point there Ashley.

Glen
 
ashman said:
Most clutch cables fail at the handle bar adjuster back in my early days on my Commando I went through clutch cables regularly until I started putting a dab of grease on the lever pivit and adjuster since doing that have never broken a cable since ever oil change and a fresh dab of grease on the end of the cable and a Venhill cable for smooth running I still use the dab of grease at the ends of the cable.
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My clutch cable broke at the lever end on a ride a couple of days ago. As soon as it broke I turned around in a parking lot and rode straight home. Found a slightly used cable in my spares box and installed with a little grease on the ends like you. We’ll see how long it lasts - new cable on order just in case.
 
I broke down, pried open my wallet and ordered a lower front fender stay from CNW. This is the stay that fits around an upgraded brake caliper set up. I have been hearing a rattling noise when going over certain bumps and that knife edge on the rear of the fender, that close the the spinning tire, just makes me ever so slightly nervous. I have been meaning to do this since I got the bike but never have.
 
You did well I reckon Larry. Couple of weeks ago I went on a 175 mile round trip to a bike show, the longest ride I’ve made since getting the bike. Lovely warm day, great twisty roads most of the way, 55/65 mph with a few miles of inter at 70/80 mph. Really noticed after riding a modern touring bike for years, with adjustable screen and big comfy seat, the vibrations and wind pressure, also the different riding stance. Didn’t help that outward journey heading west had a very noticeable headwind. Return journey not so bad with the tailwind and the
bike ran great, though being an Mk ll 850 roadster, needed to fill up soon after starting return journey.

Didn’t notice like you, any particular issue with right leg, though having long legs and issues with knee bending, especially the left one, I needed to occasionally straighten them while riding and a single rest stop was most welcome.

Like you though, the next day, my whole body ached like hell and the left knee was swollen and sore. That I could only put down to extended period of joint hammering while bent with the vibration, and general soreness because of hanging on against the headwind.
Doesn’t bode well for future longer rides, as planned for next month. Perhaps getting more acclimated with the different riding position and maybe strapping the knee will help?

Bike did suffer slightly. On checking it the next day, discovered left hand header pipe was cracked at the weld with the balance outlet!

A great ride out though.
 
Short spin out to test the clutch since adding the 3mm RGM plate (swapped for a standard one) and the Venhill featherlight cable.

Oh my. I can't believe this clutch now. I changed both the cable and the plate at the same time, and so can't be sure which is contributing the most - let's call it 50/50 ;)

Had to check I was in gear as there's absolutely no clunk or sound whatesoever - putting my modern BMW to shame. I'm having to recalibrate the signals from my brain to the left hand to cope with the lightness!

As far as upgrades go, I'd put this up there with the Pazon EI, 13mm front m/c and T160 kickstarter.

Absolutely delightful 👍

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
Fitted the new headers yesterday. Finally decided to stay with balanced type using my twisted logic in wanting to keep the bike as it was originally, despite having the new steel tank and side panels painted a non standard color!
Anyroadup, got everything lined up okay and initially tightened, went for shakedown ride and all seemed good, so really leant on the rose clamp wrench and knocked over the securing ring tabs. I know, they’re said to be not much cop but it’s done now.
Have to admit to not knowing the manufacturer as they came from a trusted dealer friend of a friend after I was getting so frustrated at looking at so many suppliers and suggestions and wildly different pricing that I gave up and went to him for a great deal.

Only thing I notice after the short run was that the r hand pipe only has started to discolor next to the rose clamp. Both sides will obviously turn eventually but is this a sign that r hand cylinder is running hotter?
 
Stevo said:
is this a sign that r hand cylinder is running hotter?
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Very often, yes.
Get a digital/infrared thermometer and read the heat output on each cylinder where the header pipe exits the cylinder head.
You can then adjust the fuel air mixture of each carb to dial in a very close temperature match.
I have found on my Amals that a turn on carb #1 air screw does not necessarily mean replicating that adjustment on carb #2. I adjust for a temp. match, not turns or partial turns of an adjustment screw.
Each carb "breathes" differently from the other so adjust accordingly.

This gives you a good starting point and THEN one can really start tweaking toward optimizing breathing performance of your engine.
Cable synchronization from twist throttle to carb is a big deal in terms of synchronized performance and unless your synch is dead nuts on you will always be tweaking that variable as well.
 
Lineslinger said:
Very often, yes.
Get a digital/infrared thermometer and read the heat output on each cylinder where the header pipe exits the cylinder head.
You can then adjust the fuel air mixture of each carb to dial in a very close temperature match.
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I omitted to mention bike has a single Mikuni and a plug check today shows r hand is definitely weaker than left.
Thanks though.

Also fitted the rear brake pedal safety spring from AN that added a surprising amount of pedal return effect I’m pleased to report.
 
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Lineslinger said:
Very often, yes.
Get a digital/infrared thermometer and read the heat output on each cylinder where the header pipe exits the cylinder head.
You can then adjust the fuel air mixture of each carb to dial in a very close temperature match.
I have found on my Amals that a turn on carb #1 air screw does not necessarily mean replicating that adjustment on carb #2. I adjust for a temp. match, not turns or partial turns of an adjustment screw.
Each carb "breathes" differently from the other so adjust accordingly.

This gives you a good starting point and THEN one can really start tweaking toward optimizing breathing performance of your engine.
Cable synchronization from twist throttle to carb is a big deal in terms of synchronized performance and unless your synch is dead nuts on you will always be tweaking that variable as well.
Click to expand...
Lineslinger,
I run Premiers that I have set with perfect sync with the motor not running. I then used a CarbTune vacuum device to check sync and after using that I was surprised at the difference in what I thought was perfect sync.Bike now runs much better along with a more stable idle.Pleased with the device.
Mike
 
Removed the oil tank to get the broken rear mount fixed, going to finally do what others have recommended and remove the bottom bolt etc when it goes back together.
I reckon the comedian who designed the horn location must have located the oil tank bottom bolt on his day off.
 
YING said:
Lineslinger,
I run Premiers that I have set with perfect sync with the motor not running. I then used a CarbTune vacuum device to check sync and after using that I was surprised at the difference in what I thought was perfect sync.Bike now runs much better along with a more stable idle.Pleased with the device.
Mike
Click to expand...

Lineslinger said:
Very often, yes.
Get a digital/infrared thermometer and read the heat output on each cylinder where the header pipe exits the cylinder head.
You can then adjust the fuel air mixture of each carb to dial in a very close temperature match.
I have found on my Amals that a turn on carb #1 air screw does not necessarily mean replicating that adjustment on carb #2. I adjust for a temp. match, not turns or partial turns of an adjustment screw.
Each carb "breathes" differently from the other so adjust accordingly.

This gives you a good starting point and THEN one can really start tweaking toward optimizing breathing performance of your engine.
Cable synchronization from twist throttle to carb is a big deal in terms of synchronized performance and unless your synch is dead nuts on you will always be tweaking that variable as well.
Click to expand...
This is an interesting approach using a thermometer to read the temps coming out of the exhaust pipes. i wonder if any of you guys doing this have settled on an approximate temp range that we should shoot for. I can see me doing this but toggling back and forth on both cylinders until I settle in on a range that is right (meaning a good clean blue spark). I have discoloured pipes as well and asked Mike about this as well and like the idea of using his carbtune approach. So, looks like I'll be looking into a carbtune and infrared thermometer gun to fine tune my carbs. I too would like the bike to run better at idle and on the road, than it does now. I'm sure my setup is nowhere near Mike's.
 
I managed to get out today for a meet with a pal at a cafe about 35 miles away. Effectively my first proper ride in 18 months I reckon, last year was a wipe out for health reasons.

As expected it worked faultlessly, CNW starter, billet clutch etc. single Mikuni electronic ignition and a HD coil setup.

I did have to retrain myself how to ride it, old habits die hard riding Japanese bikes for 35 years or so.

I need rearsets!
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
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