Pictures of your Norton Commandos

I thought that too, then I realised, the negative lead is on the negative battery post, if the SAE earth's against the frame, which is positive, even if the fuse on the positive lead blows, without a fuse on the negative battery terminal, it is still connected to the SAE plug and so continues to short circuit.

Clever spot / suggestion.
 
Saber said:
Seems like one fuse in either battery lead would have you covered. Am I missing something?
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That will protect from a device drawing too much current.

BUT, the exposed male bullet of the SAE connector will be able to arc/short against any metal cycle part within reach. 💡
 
Deets55 said:
The puff of smoke and the sudden evaporation of that black wire. Not to mention the OH S$%T !!!! experience. LOL

That's a complete short from the battery (-) to the frame (+) with no protection. Don't ask how I know.
Pete
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OK, not to get off topic, BUT.......Bob, I know you still work, but why are Rich and me awake at 5:30AM. We are both retired o_O.

Back to regular programming.......Thanks
 
Deets55 said:
Mike,
Yes, since I was using a SAE cable that already had a fuse in the (+) lead I just installed a second one on the (-) lead.

Pete
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Pete,
Thanks for your reply. I have the same type of cable so I am going to fuse it like yours. I just checked my charging rate directly at the battery with the SAE cable taken off and getting readings 14.2-14.5V and was pleased to see how the 3phase system works at lower rpm’s.Can I check the voltage with the SAE cable connected and running the vest? I know it won’t let a charger work.From what Grant Tiller has told me was that the 3phase system will definitely handle the vest as I have been in touch with him regarding the power it takes to use it.Right now I am using a MOSFET regulator but I am going to put a Shindengen unit on it after the first of the year.They are pricey but that’s life.

I try to get out as long as it is above 55 degrees which is not that unusual where I live in North Carolina.Winter to me is just a nuisance as my old body gets cold easily but I have the gear to put up with it.With my BMW,heated seats,grips,windshield,etc there has been times where it was warmer on the bike than it was stopping but it doesn’t give me the pleasure the Norton does.

Thanks again for getting back to me
Mike
 
YING said:
Pete,
Thanks for your reply. I have the same type of cable so I am going to fuse it like yours. I just checked my charging rate directly at the battery with the SAE cable taken off and getting readings 14.2-14.5V and was pleased to see how the 3phase system works at lower rpm’s.Can I check the voltage with the SAE cable connected and running the vest? I know it won’t let a charger work.From what Grant Tiller has told me was that the 3phase system will definitely handle the vest as I have been in touch with him regarding the power it takes to use it.Right now I am using a MOSFET regulator but I am going to put a Shindengen unit on it after the first of the year.They are pricey but that’s life.

I try to get out as long as it is above 55 degrees which is not that unusual where I live in North Carolina.Winter to me is just a nuisance as my old body gets cold easily but I have the gear to put up with it.With my BMW,heated seats,grips,windshield,etc there has been times where it was warmer on the bike than it was stopping but it doesn’t give me the pleasure the Norton does.

Thanks again for getting back to me
Mike
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Mike,

I have a second SAE at the handle bars that I use for my GPS. I hooked it up to a digital voltmeter while testing my heated jacket liner. So yes, it's possible to do that. I found that anything over 2,500-2,800 rpm gave me plenty of power to run the liner on full. I have a remote control that is on my tank bag for the liner so I can adjust the temp as I see fit. If I'm in traffic or stuck at a traffic light I dial the heat down to reduce the load. I don't like dropping below 13 volts.
I have a 10.5 amp Lucas 3-phase w/ a Podtronics reg/rec and all LED lights. Since I got my FJR it has become my cool/cold weather bike of choice.

Pete
 
Deets55 said:
Mike,

I have a second SAE at the handle bars that I use for my GPS. I hooked it up to a digital voltmeter while testing my heated jacket liner. So yes, it's possible to do that. I found that anything over 2,500-2,800 rpm gave me plenty of power to run the liner on full. I have a remote control that is on my tank bag for the liner so I can adjust the temp as I see fit. If I'm in traffic or stuck at a traffic light I dial the heat down to reduce the load. I don't like dropping below 13 volts.
I have a 10.5 amp Lucas 3-phase w/ a Podtronics reg/rec and all LED lights. Since I got my FJR it has become my cool/cold weather bike of choice.

Pete
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Remember when EVERY DRIVER had to have cursary knowledge of electrical load budgeting??

20A or 30A GENERATOR!

WINTER!

Short trips, low RPM with lights always on, heater blower on high, would outrun the ability to keep the battery charged.

Alternators were better at low RPM, but still only 30-40A in the beginning.

Jumpuh cables!
 
concours said:
Remember when EVERY DRIVER had to have cursary knowledge of electrical load budgeting??

20A or 30A GENERATOR!

WINTER!

Short trips, low RPM with lights always on, heater blower on high, would outrun the ability to keep the battery charged.

Alternators were better at low RPM, but still only 30-40A in the beginning.

Jumpuh cables!
Click to expand...
I remember vacuum windshield wipers and AM only radios
 
concours said:
That will protect from a device drawing too much current.

BUT, the exposed male bullet of the SAE connector will be able to arc/short against any metal cycle part within reach. 💡
Click to expand...
Tell me about it! Nearly lost my rocket 3 when the live bullet on my charging lead found an earth
 
Deets55 said:
The puff of smoke and the sudden evaporation of that black wire. Not to mention the OH S$%T !!!! experience. LOL

That's a complete short from the battery (-) to the frame (+) with no protection. Don't ask how I know.
Pete
Click to expand...
Ok, I had to lay it out to solve my confusion. You guys are correct if the orientation of the connector to the wires is "connector orientation B" in the attached diagram. My thinking was like "connector orientation A" which would significantly reduce the chances of an accidental short. I would suggest that a set up as shown in "connector orientation A" would be better if you have the choice. Fuses are cheap so I cannot argue with adding one anywhere that gives you peace of mind.

Pictures of your Norton Commandos
 
I have wiring connectors for the heated vest on each bike, even the BSA with its Lucas E3l converted to 12 volts. I have to be a bit careful with that one as the max output is only 60 watts, but the bike has a magneto so it will continue running with a low or dead battery.
The 650ss with its stock 120 watt RM21 alternator has no problem keeping up. It discharges at idle as they all do, but the battery handles that ok.
The RM23 on the MK3 has oodles of power for the vest and could likely run heated pants as well.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
I have wiring connectors for the heated vest on each bike, even the BSA with its Lucas E3l converted to 12 volts. I have to be a bit careful with that one as the max output is only 60 watts, but the bike has a magneto so it will continue running with a low or dead battery.
The 650ss with its stock 120 watt RM21 alternator has no problem keeping up. It discharges at idle as they all do, but the battery handles that ok.
The RM23 on the MK3 has oodles of power for the vest and could likely run heated pants as well.

Glen
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Glen,
Just checked my electrical/electronics books, can't find the term "oodles". Is that a Canadian output term. Sorta like "Watt" was that?

OK, it's warming up outside, I'll grab my coat and leave now!


Sorry couldn't resist :rolleyes:
 
baz said:
Tell me about it! Nearly lost my rocket 3 when the live bullet on my charging lead found an earth
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I knew it when I wired it, but in the bustle of removing helmet, gloves, jacket, phone from the X-grip, I bungled the phone cord, lol, no smoke, just a slight brush
 
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Deets55 said:
Mike,

I have a second SAE at the handle bars that I use for my GPS. I hooked it up to a digital voltmeter while testing my heated jacket liner. So yes, it's possible to do that. I found that anything over 2,500-2,800 rpm gave me plenty of power to run the liner on full. I have a remote control that is on my tank bag for the liner so I can adjust the temp as I see fit. If I'm in traffic or stuck at a traffic light I dial the heat down to reduce the load. I don't like dropping below 13 volts.
I have a 10.5 amp Lucas 3-phase w/ a Podtronics reg/rec and all LED lights. Since I got my FJR it has become my cool/cold weather bike of choice.

Pete
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Pete
Do you plug the digital meter into the plug?When you say you have another plug does that mean you have two plugs up at the bars?
I also use a controller in the tank bag (Gerbing) but I was also told that it doesn’t matter how high or low you have it, it is always has the same draw on the system.
Is this correct?
 
As I understand it, the draw to the heater wires is in pulses. The pulse always draws the same current, but the frequency of pulses lowers or increases as you lower or increase the heating setting.

So, the drain on the bike's battery is less at lower settings.
 
YING said:
Pete
Do you plug the digital meter into the plug?When you say you have another plug does that mean you have two plugs up at the bars?
I also use a controller in the tank bag (Gerbing) but I was also told that it doesn’t matter how high or low you have it, it is always has the same draw on the system.
Is this correct?
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I have one switched power plug (turns hot when ignition is on) by the handle bars for my GPS. I have another plug near my battery I use for charging and the heated liner, hot all the time. The voltmeter is an E-bay voltmeter/USB gizmo with an SAE plug on the end.
Can't say with 100% accuracy how my Gerbring heats up, but I did see a change in the voltage that varied with the liner temp setting. Probably some variables at work here, ie, how long it takes for liner to get to temp, how much power to keep it at set temp, etc. It was a one ride deal with the meter just to get an idea of what's going on, when I saw I can power the liner and ride I got rid of the meter. I guess one of those voltage monitors would probably work better for constant reading but I got the info I needed to move on to something else.
 
Deets55 said:
I have one switched power plug (turns hot when ignition is on) by the handle bars for my GPS. I have another plug near my battery I use for charging and the heated liner, hot all the time. The voltmeter is an E-bay voltmeter/USB gizmo with an SAE plug on the end.
Can't say with 100% accuracy how my Gerbring heats up, but I did see a change in the voltage that varied with the liner temp setting. Probably some variables at work here, ie, how long it takes for liner to get to temp, how much power to keep it at set temp, etc. It was a one ride deal with the meter just to get an idea of what's going on, when I saw I can power the liner and ride I got rid of the meter. I guess one of those voltage monitors would probably work better for constant reading but I got the info I needed to move on to something else.
Click to expand...
Deets,
One last question.Is your bike positive earth?
Thanks,Mike
 
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