Pictures of your Norton Commandos

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Bilko said:
Couple of recent photos of my MK3 and the lovely Essex countryside!




View attachment 110414
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@Bilko I just noticed you installed Amals with a thin ham can filter. Looks great. As you know there has been a lot of discuss in the past about how best to do this on a MK2A and earlier, but I never saw it done on a MK3. Can you provide details where you bought it and any modifications you need to do on it? Were you able to still use the MK3 battery tray?
 
2WheelsUp said:
@Bilko I just noticed you installed Amals with a thin ham can filter. Looks great. As you know there has been a lot of discuss in the past about how best to do this on a MK2A and earlier, but I never saw it done on a MK3. Can you provide details where you bought it and any modifications you need to do on it? Were you able to still use the MK3 battery tray?
Click to expand...
I used the earlier battery tray (06.1651) which drops straight into the MK3 and positions the battery along the bike rather than across it.

The narrow ham can filter was a kit from RGM:

COMPLETE TWIN CARB NARROW AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY, STAINLESS STEEL
Part No: 050744

It makes for a nice clean finish!
 
ntst8 said:
I have to compliment you on your set up as well, very nice.
Click to expand...
Iain,
2 more questions; What is the can behind the starter.

What are the straps on the frame tube behind the side cover on the left side for
Thanks,Mike
 
Hi Mike,

The can is an empty beer can (Epic Hop Zombie) being used as a catch can for the breather from the oil tank. A bit of fun really. The mount is a modified bent and battered number plate bracket from the "might be useful one day" bin, upside down with the wings cut off.
The straps are grab rail clamps being used to support a mounting plate for the Mo.Unit and the Alton starter relay. There is a thread in the Restorations section Rewiring with Mo.Unit Blue that gives a bit more detail. I have progressively pruned the mounting plate to make it easier to remove for battery access, works well now. Also added the Quiklatch for the side cover fixing, works very well.

Pictures of your Norton Commandos
Pictures of your Norton Commandos
 
ntst8 said:
Hi Mike,

The can is an empty beer can (Epic Hop Zombie) being used as a catch can for the breather from the oil tank. A bit of fun really. The mount is a modified bent and battered number plate bracket from the "might be useful one day" bin, upside down with the wings cut off.
The straps are grab rail clamps being used to support a mounting plate for the Mo.Unit and the Alton starter relay. There is a thread in the Restorations section Rewiring with Mo.Unit Blue that gives a bit more detail. I have progressively pruned the mounting plate to make it easier to remove for battery access, works well now. Also added the Quiklatch for the side cover fixing, works very well.

View attachment 111559
View attachment 111558
Click to expand...
Iain,
Do you like the MoUnit?Nice job on your wiring.
Mike
 
Thanks. Yes it is a nice toy. Not cheap and you need to do a full custom rewire to fit one, i was rewiring anyway so worked for me. If you use standard switchgear as i did then there a lot of wires.
 
Nothing special about the bike or rider, however the interesting thing was that my Thruxton R let me down with a dead battery. I should blame that on the maintenance man as the bike and battery are 2016 model year.
Anyway, I was all set to go and timed right for the 9 am ferry to Vancouver Island when the Thruxton starter went click click. The 9 am Ferry was the only option as I also had a 120 mile ride up island on the other side to attend a memorial service for a clubmate, held at 1 pm.

What to do?

Quickly transfer things to the Commando, which luckily still had enough fuel on board to make the 40 mile run to the ferry. It always starts quickly, it always gets me there and back. The e start is sure nice on the Ferry, for firing up to load and especially for getting going on exit.
It's been a great bike for the 20 years I've owned it. This was a highway run. The Commando always amazes me at how smooth and happy it runs at 70-75 mph, for just as long as you need it.
Screenshot_20231216_192826_Gmail.jpg
 
worntorn said:
Nothing special about the bike or rider, however the interesting thing was that my Thruxton R let me down with a dead battery. I should blame that on the maintenance man as the bike and battery are 2016 model year.
Anyway, I was all set to go and timed right for the 9 am ferry to Vancouver Island when the Thruxton starter went click click. The 9 am Ferry was the only option as I also had a 120 mile ride up island on the other side to attend a memorial service for a clubmate, held at 1 pm.

What to do?

Quickly transfer things to the Commando, which luckily still had enough fuel on board to make the 40 mile run to the ferry. It always starts quickly, it always gets me there and back. The e start is sure nice on the Ferry, for firing up to load and especially for getting going on exit.
It's been a great bike for the 20 years I've owned it. This was a highway run. The Commando always amazes me at how smooth and happy it runs at 70-75 mph, for just as long as you need it.
View attachment 111583
Click to expand...
Glen,
Are you using your electric vest on your Mark III? If so,does it have positive earth?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Just make sure you wire it correctly and fuse the negative wire too. That bare pin on the SAE will short out if it contacts any part of the bike (on a positive ground system).
 
YING said:
Glen,
Are you using your electric vest on your Mark III? If so,does it have positive earth?
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
Yes , the MK3 still has positive earth as delivered. The vest is one item that works ok with positive or negative earth, so I do use it on the MK3.

Glen
 
Deets55 said:
Just make sure you wire it correctly and fuse the negative wire too. That bare pin on the SAE will short out if it contacts any part of the bike (on a positive ground system).
Click to expand...
So, will an iPhone lightning cable...

🤣⚡️

When you lose control of it for just a second.

They melt quick
 
Deets55 said:
Just make sure you wire it correctly and fuse the negative wire too. That bare pin on the SAE will short out if it contacts any part of the bike (on a positive ground system).
Click to expand...
Deets,
So you have both wires fused ?
Mike
 
I thought that too, then I realised, the negative lead is on the negative battery post, if the SAE earth's against the frame, which is positive, even if the fuse on the positive lead blows, without a fuse on the negative battery terminal, it is still connected to the SAE plug and so continues to short circuit.

Clever spot / suggestion.
 
Saber said:
Seems like one fuse in either battery lead would have you covered. Am I missing something?
Click to expand...
That will protect from a device drawing too much current.

BUT, the exposed male bullet of the SAE connector will be able to arc/short against any metal cycle part within reach. 💡
 
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