Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .

Deets55 said:
Pictures were taken around 1978/1979. I believe it was a 1969 Trident that I put an 860 kit in. And yes there is snow on the ground and clothes on a clothes line.
View attachment 111168
View attachment 111169
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That's right, HAMMER THAT BASTIDD!!!
👊🏻🏁💪🏻

I remember mum bringing in frozen laundry off the line, right about freezing temp. Sometimes, the sun would win, sometimes the evaporative cooling from the wind. Thrifty woman, for a family of six. ❤️💪🏻
 
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .
 
Is it a bad sign, if the vehicle you just bought, has a key fob from a towing company?
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Confirmed.
It'll make it to the poob
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .
 
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Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .

The JUNCTION BOX is a area , where constriction / interfearance / angularity / flow impediment , dosnt help .
Youll note the WORKS headers generally are nice curvy continuity like devices . ABRUPT things dont help .
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .


looking at test run pictures , where the pipes / system is red or white hot , the darker cooler areas ALWAYS
are where things close or kink to quickly . A 16 G Steel , rather than the thinner ones , has better resonance.
If we're talking about MUFFLERS . Throwing a few baffles in the open mega , mightquiten it , but it wont
sound as melodious !

The Olde Wassell l o n g Mega's are STEEL , not TIN . Therefore they dont whimper , they howl .
reverberate ,
conduct ,
are acoustic .
just like a Stratavarius .

A single used shouldnt be hard to find . https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...ee-mick-grant-commando-based-race-bike.34288/ these are they .

HOWEVEr, Id get a works ( dimension ) cone rolled , with the rolled rear lip , like them . Matybe in stainless of the correct grade ( for heatr / exhausts )
Arredgedry , the T 160 muffler is Triple Pass . SO , a simlar set up of tubes in the back half , ( washer/ Disc - Tube - cp to mid tube-. gas back Fwd - to washer/disc -
backagain OVER the inner concentric tubes ) Means the outgoing settled gas muffles the inner rackety stuff , and the passage length in multiplied .

A nutter would get out the crayons or spray paint , to ascertain the shock lengths to cuttem at . But as it'de vary ( barometer - temp - rpm )throwing something together
using basic sheet metal tecniques , like artist ( falling over laughing icon ) might , would get you somewhere .

This from s Aus. look raisenable .

MUFFLER, UNIVERSAL, REVERSE CONE RACE MEGAPHONE, RAW (LEFT OR RIGHT), EXH0079​


thisis gotta vauge resemblance to the above drivle . dee tach able baffle ing .
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .


Appropriate tom the same quackery . Look at it as Triple Pass . Perhaps ;
Bunged in and secured removeable . :eek: .
Leave the first half length unmessed with . so THAT matches from HALF way BACK .
if yr up toit . Things on the rdiuns'd be wege / pie segment - TAPERED .

Artistry in Execution . To the envy of all mankind ! .

Or throw on one of those stainless exhaust end modern things thats fallen off a four cylinder car .
One on a hinkley rocket he said it did miricles for the milage , and wasnt louder particularly.
For starters . ( rotten keyboard here . excuse ) .
 
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concours said:
Whole different animal. Small, low, and devoid of the punchy torque of the Norton.
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And much freer above 6k !

I can’t recall the details now, but IIRC T160s left the factory with the cam timing set for emissions, and a bit of time spent re timing them liberates a bit more oomph. Worth doing a bit of digging.
 
I can tell you are a manly sort, calling it low and small! Wot you REALLY must do is plop a 850 set on it and
get the head flowed. Check the valve timing but I have found my wheels simply won't allow me to get to
the desired numbers. Worth a try though. Silencers are wot Armour's sell which are just straight through
absorbtion type. If you lay on the wood they make a lot of noise. A set of pattern Dunstalls might be better.
As for the E-start, not needed on a Trident in my opinion. Rather have it on the Norton.
 
Onder said:
I can tell you are a manly sort, calling it low and small! Wot you REALLY must do is plop a 850 set on it and
get the head flowed. Check the valve timing but I have found my wheels simply won't allow me to get to
the desired numbers. Worth a try though. Silencers are wot Armour's sell which are just straight through
absorbtion type. If you lay on the wood they make a lot of noise. A set of pattern Dunstalls might be better.
As for the E-start, not needed on a Trident in my opinion. Rather have it on the Norton.
Click to expand...
I couldn’t agree more with that!

I fitted an 850 kit, had the head flowed, and re dialled the cams, and this combination transformed it. It gave it the bottom end of a 750 twin and the 6-8k screaming ability as well. And the sound through those peashooters when it came on cam was just fabulous !

I also agree they’re a doddle to kick start, even at 850cc with a raised CR. That’s why I removed the (very heavy) e start gubbins from mine.

The bigger stroked motors are a bit different though, they can be a bit awkward to kick start.

On balance, IMHO, in many ways, a nicely sorted 850 is the optimum variation of this motor for the road.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
I couldn’t agree more with that!

I fitted an 850 kit, had the head flowed, and re dialled the cams, and this combination transformed it. It gave it the bottom end of a 750 twin and the 6-8k screaming ability as well. And the sound through those peashooters when it came on cam was just fabulous !

I also agree they’re a doddle to kick start, even at 850cc with a raised CR. That’s why I removed the (very heavy) e start gubbins from mine.

The bigger stroked motors are a bit different though, they can be a bit awkward to kick start.

On balance, IMHO, in many ways, a nicely sorted 850 is the optimum variation of this motor for the road.
Click to expand...
Okay
Can we stop talking about trident big bore kits now please
My wallet is shaking!
 
You do have to get used to running it at a higher rpm than the Commando. It will poodle along at 3200
if it is a 850 but activity begins at 4100. That, of course, dependant on final gearing.
 
Oh and as for the big bore kits, most stockers need rings and pistons fairly early on due to the fact you
1. run at high rpm 2. 750 is too small for all that weight. Therefore you can easily rationalize the added
expense!
 
Shelby-Right said:
Can anyone recommend a good Hi flow , single muffler for a 3 into 1 . , nice sound would be a bonus . cheers
Click to expand...
If you look carefully at my second picture you will see a 3-1 exhaust. Looks like the same one that Matt Spencer posted. It had a removable baffle, and yes it would HOWL w/o the baffle.
 
Matt Spencer said:
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .

The JUNCTION BOX is a area , where constriction / interfearance / angularity / flow impediment , dosnt help .
Youll note the WORKS headers generally are nice curvy continuity like devices . ABRUPT things dont help .
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .


looking at test run pictures , where the pipes / system is red or white hot , the darker cooler areas ALWAYS
are where things close or kink to quickly . A 16 G Steel , rather than the thinner ones , has better resonance.
If we're talking about MUFFLERS . Throwing a few baffles in the open mega , mightquiten it , but it wont
sound as melodious !

The Olde Wassell l o n g Mega's are STEEL , not TIN . Therefore they dont whimper , they howl .
reverberate ,
conduct ,
are acoustic .
just like a Stratavarius .

A single used shouldnt be hard to find . https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...ee-mick-grant-commando-based-race-bike.34288/ these are they .

HOWEVEr, Id get a works ( dimension ) cone rolled , with the rolled rear lip , like them . Matybe in stainless of the correct grade ( for heatr / exhausts )
Arredgedry , the T 160 muffler is Triple Pass . SO , a simlar set up of tubes in the back half , ( washer/ Disc - Tube - cp to mid tube-. gas back Fwd - to washer/disc -
backagain OVER the inner concentric tubes ) Means the outgoing settled gas muffles the inner rackety stuff , and the passage length in multiplied .

A nutter would get out the crayons or spray paint , to ascertain the shock lengths to cuttem at . But as it'de vary ( barometer - temp - rpm )throwing something together
using basic sheet metal tecniques , like artist ( falling over laughing icon ) might , would get you somewhere .

This from s Aus. look raisenable .

MUFFLER, UNIVERSAL, REVERSE CONE RACE MEGAPHONE, RAW (LEFT OR RIGHT), EXH0079​


thisis gotta vauge resemblance to the above drivle . dee tach able baffle ing .
Pictures of your Triumph T160 or similar .


Appropriate tom the same quackery . Look at it as Triple Pass . Perhaps ;
Bunged in and secured removeable . :eek: .
Leave the first half length unmessed with . so THAT matches from HALF way BACK .
if yr up toit . Things on the rdiuns'd be wege / pie segment - TAPERED .

Artistry in Execution . To the envy of all mankind ! .

Or throw on one of those stainless exhaust end modern things thats fallen off a four cylinder car .
One on a hinkley rocket he said it did miricles for the milage , and wasnt louder particularly.
For starters . ( rotten keyboard here . excuse ) .
Click to expand...
Wow , great reply , I have made quite a few mufflers , but I don't have any tapered rollers , thought this time if there was a good muffler, that was designed as a single muffler, for a triple or other engines , stainless would be nice as they tend to rust out at the inlet joint , I know a 3mm hole down there can help with removing water , I think maybe viking might have something. Not sure if it's the right style .
 
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