New Member, with questions.....

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Josh Cox said:
New Member, with questions.....
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Have not seen this before...
 
DogT, I will be fitting the trispark with two 6 volt coils in series ( previously had a Boyer with two 12 volt coils in series, no wonder it was a bitch to start ).

Hooking coils up in parallel can cause problems if one is faulty, on electronic ignition, if you are using condensors then you are using points as well and it should be ok. using 6 volts coils with ballast resistors is better when the battery voltage is low.

Condsidering the boyer can use two 12 volts coils in series, it should be ok either way.

It is my preference to run two 6 volt in series, will provide a way better spark and no doubt be easier to start.

In my mind: the ballast resistor protects the coils ( current limiting ), the condensor stops arcing across the points.

The head steady is new from Norvill.

Swoosh ( the other other Dave ), hi temp silicone, the exhaust will neither leak or come loose.
 
DogT,

Just to clarify, when using points, to the best of my knowledge, all coils are in parallel.

The 6 volt coils with ballast resistor provide a better start when battery voltage is low, i.e. when using an electric starter motor.

IMHO, either will give a better spark for start :

* 6 volt coil and ballast resistors with points, or,
* two 6 volt coils in series with electronic ignition.

Note: 2 12 volt coils in series as suggested by boyer is IMHO less than fantastic.

With electronic ignition both spark plugs spark at the same time every stroke, circa 32 BTDC, ( on one cylinder it will be the compression stroke on the other cylinder during the completion of the exhaust stroke ).

With the points system there is no extra spark ( ie on the exhuasting cylinder ), it is only provided on the compression stroke on the appropriate cylinder.
 
Josh Cox said:
DogT,

Just to clarify, when using points, to the best of my knowledge, all coils are in parallel.

The 6 volt coils with ballast resistor provide a better start when battery voltage is low, i.e. when using an electric starter motor.
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That's just about right - remember Norton fitted the 2MC capacitor to allow low or no battery start and run. It works too.

Mick
 
I gave a look at the 71 and 72 ignition circuits tonight. Yes, the 6V coils are hooked up in parallel and in series with the ballast resistor, just like the 12V coils and no ballast. So spark is only on compression in either case. I have no experience with the Boyer, so have to assume like everyone says, both plugs spark together.

I still don't get the ballast, resistance is resistance. The 6V coils just have a larger auto-transformer circuit to produce the same or similar voltage out with 6V instead of 12V. I guess as long as the current remains the same, voltage is only reduced and built back up in the auto-transformer. I'm not trying to get into a big rant here, I just don't understand why a resistor is good, it seems kind of like the guys who want to put a 50 ohm resistor across their antenna and then it tunes equally well across all bands, trouble is most of the energy is in the resistor (heat), not the antenna (radiating)? Sure looks good on the old watt meter though. It does current limit the drain though. Maybe it's just a safety issue in case the coil shorts?

Anyhow, looking good, Combat head too. Should be a runner.

Dave
69S
 
Hi Dave,

Thats why I reckon electronic with two 6 volts coils is the best option.

To understand why the ballast resistor, check out the current graphs for a coil.

Try not to confuse yourself with trying to rationalise it with Ohms law, I'm happy to know what it does, and why was something I covered in trade school but have since killed that particular brain cell with booze. Now off to kill some more........, perhaps that one that keeps telling me I'm crap in bed, oh hang on thats my wife.
 
New Member, with questions.....
New Member, with questions.....
New Member, with questions.....

One relay for the horn, one for the lights ( having the relay ensures when riding down a dark road at night and switching between hi and lo does not find you having no lights, those switches can be a bit dodgy ).
New Member, with questions.....
 
Evening all,

Had a killer evening tonight, a couple of posts ago I was talking about puting a trispark on the bike, I'm still keen to do this, but today I realised,if I stick the boyer back on, which I have in a box in the shed, you know I just might be able to run the engine tonight.

Well f&^k a duck, thats exactly what I did.

I shit you not, it started on the second kick.

The kick starter is hiting the muffler quite badly, would like to know how to fix this, are the mufflers handed ?.

All the electric work a treat, the rivet counters out there will be disgusted, but I've modified the electrics, all electrics are on the key, head light and horn are on relays ( there is a reason for that if anyone is interested ).

Note: the rattling noise is the stainless boots on the rear shocks, I'll fix those.

Stand by for photos and film ( uploading as we speak ).
 
Congratulations, always a great moment when they burst into life.

As far as the kickstart muffler clash is concerned, the mufflers aren't handed. The problem usually lies with the line of the down pipe along the frame, it should sit parallel to the frame and tucked nicely in. On the right, tightening the exhaust collar can twist the pipe away from the frame might be worth holding this in while you pull up the collar.

Otherwise could just be a poor quality pipe.
 
Good deal, another one springs to life. Sounds to me like it's not quite balanced yet, it should run smoother than that.

Dave
69S
 
Good deal, another one springs to life. Sounds to me like it's not quite balanced yet, it should run smoother than that
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Agreed, I'll not run it again until its on wheels, a bit of a hazard dropping it.

I'm pretty sure the vac gauges will do the trick nicely.

The carbs were cleaned and 1.5 turns off rich, as per Hobots sagely advice. Those carbs have been sitting in a box in a guys shed since the mid 70's, i.e. about when I was born.
 
It almost sounds like it's only hitting on one cylinder, but it wouldn't be that easy to start on 1, unless you just got lucky. I know, one of the wires came off a coil and it sounded like that. Check KSU thread for pics of the shock tops.

Dave
69S
 
Josh Cox said:
I have the burn marks to prove both cylinders are making fire
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Sound pretty good, Josh. I feel your excitement.

If you decide to go with a MKIII kickstart, save your old one if your ever want to get a rearset, but I feel you should get the one you have sorted. Just snugging the exhaust nuts can bring them inboard enough to clear. As you tighten the right exhaust nut, apply pressure to the pipe near the silencer joint. That should do it.

Your resemblance to your avatar is remarkable. :lol:
 
I am insanely jealous, you have caught up and passed me.
The look on your face says it all.
Excitement, relief, can't wait, oh yeeeah.
Good luck for the last bit.
AC.
 
No need to be insanely jealous, when the bike is finished and you're in Cairns, you can take it for a rip.

Soon enough I'll have two working classic motorcycles and only one ass to sit on those two bikes, friends needed.
 
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