New Member, with questions.....

pete.v · Apr 8, 2011

Josh Cox said:

I don't like the look of those washers as a spacer. You can buy 3/8" spacers at the hardware store. Bring a micrometer to make sure you get three that are within in a thou. This area is just too darn critical and if your a little off, your off the road. It is sooo much more important that you are concentric and centered all around rather than having the stator cover the rotor all the way. If your stator/rotor relationship is just a little cocked, you risk destroying the rotor AND that new stator.

Josh Cox · Apr 9, 2011

The only solid item I could find to replace the washers with were some metric nuts that I drilled the thread out of, they are all the same thickness, well within the width of a bee's ball bag.

KSUWildcatFan · Apr 9, 2011

This is coming together nicely. It's making me want to tackle my '71 S once I'm done with my '73 850... ;D

FWIW, I think my gauges are wrong, too.

L.A.B. · Apr 9, 2011

KSUWildcatFan said:
It's making me want to tackle my '71 S
I think my gauges are wrong, too.

Your 1971 model is actually a 1970 season model.
I believe the speedo is a later factory replacement unit which has the green globe instead of the green blob as the original probably would have had.
I can't read the instrument number but the speedo is probably marked "SSM-3001/02A 1000"
The tacho is from a 1971-'74 model (RSM3003/15 ?).

[Edit]As I think others have pointed out already, your 'S' is probably a 1970 Roadster as the serial number you gave previously = "20M3S/139332" is too late for it to be an S type, as the last S was supposedly 135088. Also the 20M3S prefix does not necessarily identify an S model.

KSUWildcatFan · Apr 9, 2011

Hmmm.... Good points. I guess I was swayed more by the headlight ring, triple trees, shrouded shocks, and taillight ass'y, which is why I thought it was an S, but you're probably right. The other thing we noticed was the provision for the bicycle pump in the rear loop, just like dad's original S. Either way--S or not--I like it.

-Jordan

DogT · Apr 9, 2011

Yes, the early Roadster until 71 (production date) was just an offshoot of the 'S'. Everything was the same except the exhaust, not sure about the front mudguard and stays but I bet the same too. I'm sure you have the central oil tank too?

I'm not sure when they changed the clocks, but here are the early 69/70 ones.

Dave
69S

swooshdave · Apr 9, 2011

DogT said:
Yes, the early Roadster until 71 (production date) was just an offshoot of the 'S'. Everything was the same except the exhaust, not sure about the front mudguard and stays but I bet the same too. I'm sure you have the central oil tank too?

I'm not sure when they changed the clocks, but here are the early 69/70 ones.

Dave
69S

There was an extensive thread on instruments. Identifying numbers, globes, blobs, etc.

KSUWildcatFan · Apr 9, 2011

Yep, I have the early oil tank. Looks like my speedo may be original, but the tach may be a replacement. At least if this isn't a legitimate S, I won't feel bad about making it non-stock when I go to restore it..because I probably won't.

//maybe not on the speedo. Not that it really matters to me!

-Jordan

Josh Cox · Apr 9, 2011

Jordan,

The fact that the speedo only has 3 odd miles on it would indicate the speedo is new..................

KSUWildcatFan · Apr 9, 2011

Josh Cox said:
Jordan,

The fact that the speedo only has 3 odd miles on it would indicate the speedo is new..................

Can they not be reset in one way or another?

Josh Cox · Apr 9, 2011

No luck fitting the horn, will work something else out.

KSUWildcatFan · Apr 9, 2011

Better tear it down and start over!!!

DogT · Apr 9, 2011

Looks like you don't have the original triangular plate. Bottom left here.

On mine, the left (central) 1/4-28 bolt went through from the front of the battery holder and had a washer or nut on it, then through the mudguard with washers and another nut on it. Here's a picture without the bolt going through, but maybe you get the idea. There were different methods of mounting the mudguard in that area too. Mine had a strap between the upper shock mounts, some have a plate off the flat frame area behind the spine. I don't have a picture of that.

and here

Nice toes.

Dave
69S

Josh Cox · Apr 9, 2011

You're lucky I was wearing pants in this photo and you're just teasing me because the dog chewed my thongs.

swooshdave · Apr 9, 2011

Josh Cox said:
No luck fitting the horn, will work something else out.

horny-situation-t6228.html

I think I have the same horn. You can check out my solution. Not saying it's better but it kinda works. Will need to cover the mouth or drill a drain hole in the horn.

Josh Cox · Apr 9, 2011

Dave,

Your horn should hold water nicely

.

Was thinking about installing an air horn, one that plays a tune, any suggestions ?.

DogT, what sprockets are you running ?, are you happy with the gearing, what type of riding do you do ( highway or red light district speeds )

DogT · Apr 9, 2011

If my dog was chewing my thongs, he would be getting into the hair??? My flip-flops have already been blown out by the Margaretta's.

But here's the Border Terrier-ist.

I'm using a 19 (original) sprocket, but as of yet, I only have 10 miles on this rebuild and haven't ridden it for 20 years. Next week getting the tags and title and see if I can stand getting on the road with it. I always drove around country roads, so didn't need high gearing, and am expecting will ride around mostly in 3rd here in the 45 zones. Scares the bejesus out of me anyhow in 1st gear. Believe me in 2nd gear, 25 to 70 no problemo and pulls like a freight train the whole way if the carbs set up. It's like having sex without the rubber after having been forced to use it.

He's not wearing pants as you notice.

Dave
69S

Josh Cox · Apr 26, 2011

Thanks Dave, I'm having trouble looking away........

Still waiting for my f'ing barrels............

bwolfie · Apr 26, 2011

I have some powdercoated black horn brackets for sale if needed.

Josh Cox · Apr 30, 2011

New Member, with questions.....

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