New Member, with questions.....

Josh Cox · May 1, 2011

Hobot · May 1, 2011

Gosh its like seeing a drug addicted pimple faced rash covered fat gal
get out of rehab with clear skin, trim figure and new lease on life!

KSUWildcatFan · May 1, 2011

hobot said:
Gosh its like seeing a drug addicted pimple faced rash covered fat gal
get out of rehab with clear skin, trim figure and new lease on life!

LMAO

Nice point of reference!

Josh Cox · May 1, 2011

Gosh its like seeing a drug addicted pimple faced rash covered fat gal
get out of rehab with clear skin, trim figure and new lease on life!

So Hobot, did you root her ?.

Josh Cox · May 2, 2011

Getting these middle bolts in took f'ing hours

regental · May 2, 2011

Josh - have you just used gasket paper at the carb manifolds rather than the heat insulated tufnol spacer? Alan

pete.v · May 2, 2011

regental said:
Josh - have you just used gasket paper at the carb manifolds rather than the heat insulated tufnol spacer? Alan

Looks like yer gonna get more practice at those middle bolts. A ball ended allen wrench will make it sooooo much easier. When you get it almost snug, you get a channel lock in and grab the short end to tighten. You can make your own, but they're fairly cheap now.

First get the heat insulating spacers. Start at a middle one then swing up the spacer end get the outside. Start with the outside on the second carb and swing up the spacer and get the middle bolt. Not too tight.

DogT · May 2, 2011

I agree, where in the world do you find regular gaskets for the manifold to head? You better get the right one.

Get like pvisseriii says, get a long Allen wrench, preferably the round ended type or make one, it will reach out past the carbs if you don't have the air filter on.

You'll need a ground down one on the short end too, so you might as well make that one too.

Dave
69S

Josh Cox · May 2, 2011

I made the gasket with gasket paper.

Where would I find a pair of the tufnol ones, new or used ?.

pete.v · May 2, 2011

Josh Cox said:
I made the gasket with gasket paper.

Where would I find a pair of the tufnol ones, new or used ?.

http://www.oldbritts.com/alt_067842.html

AussieCombat · May 2, 2011

Yep she's looking good Josh,
Did you use any... Rust preventative type undercoat stuff on the Barrels or just straight on with the VHT.
I'm about to paint my barrels after Acid dip and Blast and not sure what to do. Got quoted $100.00 by local crook.
Thought about Semi gloss Industrial spray. Happy to use VHT if it's ok.
AC.
Try this guy here in Adelaide for your spacers, if you want someone almost local...Murray's Britbikes.... 0408 833511.

Josh Cox · May 2, 2011

Hi AC,

I did the BSA with the vht, it looks OK.

The more prep work the better, I just sprayed VHT directly on.

What ever you use it needs to be temperature rated, the VHT Barrel paint is apprently the right stuff, it looks quite glossy, time will tell though.

AussieCombat · May 2, 2011

Jesus that was quick, while I was editing you answered.
AC.

Josh Cox · May 2, 2011

Josh Cox · May 4, 2011

OK you whinging bastards, the tufnol spacers are on the way.
This picture is not gay:

possm · May 4, 2011

Josh
Looking at the photos it appears to me you are running the later 32mm inlet manifolds as used 72 and later, 69-70 used a 30mm mannifold that matched to a 30mm inlet port in the head the early 30mm manifold has extra finning as seen in photos allready submitted.
Al

Josh Cox · May 4, 2011

Hi Possm,

Have fitted a Combat head, the carbs are supposed to be off a 69 model, so manifolds, who knows.

DogT · May 4, 2011

I see you are using the 71 ignition setup too, are you going to use the ballast resistor? Is that the later headsteady mount on the head? It looks heavier than mine.

I never could figure why they went to the ballast and 6V coils. Mine works off 12V coils, each side is separate spark, no ballast. Condensers mount right on the coil bracket. Pretty simple. The circuit is in all the books for the pre-71.

Dave
69S

Hobot · May 4, 2011

Wonder build and clean solutions to components and details to study for me.
Stumped on '72 points since last am, read manual to see ballast was for electric start to somehow allow ignition to bypass 'resistor' to get full 12 v but then somehow also knock down to 6 v to protect the 6v coils I assume. Would like to bypass ballast but only 6 v coils on hand and got it wonder fine a couple times prior but didn't cut up the loom either. One reason for my test results says check is to subsitute condensor, ugh, they were ok but maybe sitting up went dead. I've an old one but had to toss out prior new ones as bad right out the box, which being unexpected took misery to figure out and dig trashed one out to finally run, ugh.

DogT · May 4, 2011

The way I understand it, and it may be wrong, but the 6V coils are hooked up in series and you get a spark on both plugs each stroke, my 12V coils are hooked up in parallel and each coil gets the hit from the points only during the compression stroke on it's appropriate side. I'm not sure what the ballast is about since I never had to deal with it. I'm still running my original condensers and coils believe it or not. Not sure what Josh is doing.

Dave
69S