New member: Norton owner with a new Triumph

Hello.

New to Triumph Twins, but ridding motorcycles for 25 years.




‘63 TR6R w/ a 60 over Bonneville head. (My daily bike is a ’73 Commando with electrical issues, which may be grist for another post).

I got the bike a few days ago and have been fiddling since. All kinds of little, to maybe bigger problems; but we’ll see. Binding rear-set layout (both sides) to heavy smoke from exhaust. I’m going to tackle stuff in the order most convenient as my job demands a lot of time right now… and I’ll most likely have a lot of Triumph specific questions along the way.

Right now I’m interested in fitting the bike with a reed valve breather unit. I have one on the Commando, and I swear by it.

…So, is this a mod people are doing?

I can’t see where the vent in my case is – only that the line exits from behind the chain then splits (branching to the top of the oil tank and to the back of the bike), but do people find it “better” to modify and vent though the timing side? like the Commandos… or somewhere else? Maybe someone has a few good photos of DIY alternatives?

(I realize I'm in the -- probably -- more period correct than not Triumph/ classic section, so maybe I should be asking elsewhere.)

Also, where do these cases take a tach cable?

Thanks

JCP said:

Also, where do these cases take a tach cable?

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63 to 65 cases have the tacho drive off the driveside end of the cam, it goes straight out and does not get turned through 90 degrees as the 66 onwards do. However you can fit the early 90 degree drive but not the later ones with the different thread, that then saves you looking for the special 63 to 65 anticlockwise 2:1 tacho head and wondering how to route the cable.

kommando said:

63 to 65 cases have the tacho drive off the driveside end of the cam, it goes straight out and does not get turned through 90 degrees as the 66 onwards do. However you can fit the early 90 degree drive but not the later ones with the different thread, that then saves you looking for the special 63 to 65 anticlockwise 2:1 tacho head and wondering how to route the cable.

Click to expand...

Perfect. Thanks.

JCP said:

I can’t see where the vent in my case is – only that the line exits from behind the chain then splits (branching to the top of the oil tank and to the back of the bike), but do people find it “better” to modify and vent though the timing side? like the Commandos… or somewhere else? Maybe someone has a few good photos of DIY alternatives?

Click to expand...

Yours is probably stock, like this:



Lots of mods possible, a quick peruse of t’internet will show yer options. None are simple bolts on though.

Thanks for that photo -- that explains it.

I saw a few things online but wondered if there might be something mentioned I hadn't run across.

Thanks

Unless it’s been modified in some way, it was originally a timed breather I believe.

I‘m really not sure what benefit there is in adding a reed valve to a timed breather. I think zero.

Think I’d be inclined to enjoy it as it is and put breather mods on the list of things to do next time the engine is down.

My favourite breather mod on unit motors is to use the triangular shaped front mounting point ‘chamber‘ by drilling breather holes into the main crankcase chamber and adding an outlet. I’ve done this in the past and it works brilliantly. A Reed valve would then make this work even more brilliantly !

Fast Eddie said:

Unless it’s been modified in some way, it was originally a timed breather I believe.

I‘m really not sure what benefit there is in adding a reed valve to a timed breather. I think zero.

Think I’d be inclined to enjoy it as it is and put breather mods on the list of things to do next time the engine is down.

My favourite breather mod on unit motors is to use the triangular shaped front mounting point ‘chamber‘ by drilling breather holes into the main crankcase chamber and adding an outlet. I’ve done this in the past and it works brilliantly. A Reed valve would then make this work even more brilliantly !

Click to expand...

Yes, it's timed – and I wouldn’t do anything without considering the entire system, which means I’d disable the existing set-up for a better one.

I don’t think what’s there could possible be better than a larger, continuously "open" venting hole and an external, serviceable reed.

I just came across this "chamber" layout (http://www.vintagebikebuilder.com/d...ing-a-vintage-triumph-crankcase-breather.html). Very cool, indeed. You've done this?... and similarly to how it's sketched out in the link?

Thanks for your help so far.

Yea I’ve run that set up on a few motors, I used 4 holes internally, one external hole.

it works very well. I’ve never tried it with a Reed valve though, which I think would be perfect.

Other notes on their advice:

An outlet on the top of the timing cover spews oil out, I believe it’s cos the cam wheels direct oil splash there. You can stuff mesh etc up the pipe to reduce this fairly successfully.

Using the rocker boxes does not work. I tried this on my T140 and the oil seal weeped into the dry primary.

Fast Eddie said:

Yea I’ve run that set up on a few motors, I used 4 holes internally, one external hole.

it works very well. I’ve never tried it with a Reed valve though, which I think would be perfect.

Other notes on their advice:

An outlet on the top of the timing cover spews oil out, I believe it’s cos the cam wheels direct oil splash there. You can stuff mesh etc up the pipe to reduce this fairly successfully.

Using the rocker boxes does not work. I tried this on my T140 and the oil seal weeped into the dry primary.

Click to expand...

Thank you sir.

These early sh*tters , the case is sealed . Like a two stoke the pistons are CUSHIONED through B D C , by the C'Case compression .
Whick is why pre units are superrior and will rev the snot outta a later one .

Well . . . . . the sucker'll be less stressed at high rpm.

The holes in the late case are bleed back from chaincase oil level , throwing out the c'shaft oil seal provides the feed .
Some off us think the timiming side brass bush cant fail like the rubber oil feed seal too . Omly wears if the mains are r**ted .