Buffing, polishing, restoring.

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It isn't a typo, I looked it up on three sites and got one price of $730. I'm going with the one that has free shipping because I'm no fool. I know a bargain when I see it.
 
According to one site:

"Here’s how to properly apply Zymol Concours Glaze

* Wash and dry your vehicle using Zymöl Clear Auto Bathe
* Apply Zymöl HD-Cleanse the surface to assure 100% wax bonding
* Put a very small amount of Zymol Destiny Estate Glaze into the palm of your hand. Use the warmth of your hands by rubbing them together, to melt the carnauba. With your hands, gently apply the melted glaze in a light even pattern over a 2 by 2 foot area letting the glaze stand for 60 to 90 seconds.
* Using moderate to heavy pressure, wipe very slowly with a micro-fiber towel to a brilliant luster before wax is totally dry.
* Buff lightly once more approximately 3 to 4 hours later to a perfect shine."

Who's ever been to Pebble Beach that can forget the scent of Zymol's coconut and banana oils wafting on the sea breeze?
For us troglodytes, this isn't bad stuff for aluminum.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5101-Alum ... B0009H519Y
 
At $700 my being a lazy poor hay seed says I'd just buy a few covers and send out for pro polish and put next one on as the sheen dulled
 
Thanks to everyone who posted a reply. It really amazes me the amount of in-depth knowledge here. Props to maximini for steering me to Caswell's. I ordered the buffer machine with bunches of wheels, compounds, etc. I followed the advice there and am confident of my choice. I think I will invest in a ultrasonic cleaner as well for a starting point for the smallish bits. I feel good about the advice here and thanks again for all the help.

William
Buffing, polishing, restoring.


Buffing, polishing, restoring.
 
I am afraid that despite liking how a really clean bike looks, living where I do the road warrier patina is really more my style. I did wash the mud off the last time I had the bike out!
 
I sent my stuff out. Or rather, I took it to a guy. Saw his setup. It is a dirty
and horrible job. You need horsepower, real horsepower to get the job
done in reasonable time. It isn cheap but if a pro does it, all you have
to do is a yearly rebuff yourself. Oh, yearly? Buffing is a disease and
you eventually either give up or stop riding.
You can ride or you can polish but few have the time and backbone for
both.
Road warrior patina is a wonderful thing.
 
Wesley just auto wash sprays his '71 Cdo and '69 Bonnie to remove the un=paved road grime to leave em clean looking but definitely not really shiny.

I've seen a few concours vintage shows now and got Ms Peel's stuff up to that show quality range via hand sand and hand drill method. Its neck and will power straining but main thing to constantly be aware of is keeping constant secure hold control on items. Then know it won't last if removed far from the trailer.

Buffing, polishing, restoring.


Buffing, polishing, restoring.


Buffing, polishing, restoring.
 
Has anyone tried this product after finishing a metal polishing?

Liquid Metal Wax
Cleans and protects chrome, aluminum, copper, brass and stainless steel in one easy step. Contains neither strong acid, nor harsh alkali. Will safely remove rust and salt deposits while protecting fittings and accessories.
Buffing, polishing, restoring.



At Caswell's

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In general the small home user polishing spindles dont work that well on larger bike parts as they are simply not powerful enough, and progress is painfully slow. For people doing one off projects, a proper polishing kit based around an angle grinder is pretty much ideal:

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Ha, big power bench mounted polisher ain't so necessary if ya start by hand with files then 80 to 120 grit and work down to 2000 - can just about hand rub it to high sheen by then. But can't contrest a bit about the quality time saved by good expensive polish set up. I cheated with hi power tools on the Drouin rough raw case casting, used 12" 1 hp two handed angle grinder and course flapper grinding discs and hardly hurt myself or the cases. I've found hand drill buffer also handy to touch up the surfaces getting road grime blasted while still on the bike. I learned about the clear tape put on leading edges of helicopter blades when at Texas Mile so will try that on top and sides of polished Al swing arm, front of primary case and sliders as labor of love saver.
 
i'm vain as anyone about cycles so watching for miracles that don't cost most of a $1000 a bottle. Don't follow your prescription spoof. If clear wheel spray works out on plain Jane Trixie then Peel will be too. Peel parts still covered in Zoop goo but not yet applied the final component rub off to full sheen. So far so good, some the handling scrtaches/smudges just rub off.
 
Hobot, it was my feeble attempt at humor. The stuff you were talking about, liquid glass, was for medical use. Lately I have been having to explain more and more of my jokes. I need better writers.
 
Ok I didn't know i was talking about medical use product in the 'nano' spray on.

I just did Trixie's rocker and points covers last pm and highly recommend the polish station floors have cushioned soft carpet laid all around for wayward items and cushioned carpeted walls for the polisher head pounding protection. If you ain't in constant neck and grip muscle tension then at risk to see wisdom of above, ugh. If the part ain't getting about too hot to handle than not up to snuff or approaching mirror-ness.

I only dropped on cover one time while hand sanding at 800 grit but hit cement on edge and can live with the slight blemish.

The N'th degree finishing is to use a fine powder like talcum or corn starch rub to remove the polish grit waxy/greasy carrier before final wax or other coating, or burn it off as I tend to do by flame steam anodizing a sapphire layer.

I don't want to spend more time polishing so clear sprayed the covers and will give one more buffing to that then hope for the best in strangers and my glances after the grime and grit washed off.
 
For anyone who is not a professional bike restorer, the simple polishing kits based around buffing wheels fitted to a 4.5 inch angle grinder, seem to be an awful lot easier and faster than most of whats been suggested on here. There is no need to spend lots of time with sanding (unless you want mirror finish on rough castings!), and whats included in the kit will generally be all you need to do all the alloy parts on 1 bike.
 
Ok diablough I went back and read the details to see "liquid glass" mentioned, same stuff i had in my childhood chemistry set but not explosive, stinky or colorful so didn't give it much attention. I mean who would. Optical balsam is another one that comes to mind now and use in old school lens. Took long soaks or boiling acetone to free up or clean up. Acetone boils at 134'F ok but flammable brain toxin.

Now you've ID's the magic 'nano' material I'm going to experiment on Peels stuff polished the hard hick way to 2000 grit, 3 polish grades via hand drill then flame-steam anodizing. Just heat and oxygen needed which water can supply.
I think I can see a melt like layer spread as flame moved around, hopefully melting microscopic ridges and pores. Tonight I'll buff clear coat and get ready for Sunday with Wes's help on finishing up Trixie Combat to test start.

Sodium silicate is the common name for a compound sodium metasilicate, Na2SiO3, also known as water glass or liquid glass. It is available in aqueous solution and in solid form and is used in cements, passive fire protection, refractories, textile and lumber processing, and automobiles.
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