Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain

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Oct 20, 2022
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Hello,

This is going to be my third restoration-cafe racer-project and my first British classic bike so I am probably need your help!
Due to work and family reasons I use to spend one to two years to finish my projects but I will certainly finish and the result with this great motorbike will certainly pay off.
I bought the bike from a guys than document me he order in 2006 the following professional work from an experienced mechanic in Granada (South Spain) made in 2006: polished rims, hubs, fork, triple trees, polished and painted frame, rectified and reapair heads and cylinders,.

Since then the bike has being stored and the engine has not run so supposedly it should have 0 kms.
Find here some picture of how the bike is
Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain
 
Bike looks great!
You will get a lot of opinions and advice on this forum all good!
This what I do when a I buy a Norton, Drain all oil. Oil absorbs moisture over time, sulfur and water create sulfuric acid, not good! Remove sump screen and clean, this will tell if it has been run. l check at least the exhaust valves have proper clearance. While the exhaust covers are off, after reinstalling sump screen, dump 2/3 ounces of new oil in head, this will drain down and lube lifters and hopefully the cam. Remove oil suction screen from oil tank, it should be clean, reinstall and fill with oil. Remove spark plugs. Kick the engine over until you see oil return to the oil tank. If you look in filler cap there is a return tube that will pulse oil. It may take 20-25 kicks till you see oil return but at least it's there before the engine starts. Have Fun!
 
Bike looks great!
You will get a lot of opinions and advice on this forum all good!
This what I do when a I buy a Norton, Drain all oil. Oil absorbs moisture over time, sulfur and water create sulfuric acid, not good! Remove sump screen and clean, this will tell if it has been run. l check at least the exhaust valves have proper clearance. While the exhaust covers are off, after reinstalling sump screen, dump 2/3 ounces of new oil in head, this will drain down and lube lifters and hopefully the cam. Remove oil suction screen from oil tank, it should be clean, reinstall and fill with oil. Remove spark plugs. Kick the engine over until you see oil return to the oil tank. If you look in filler cap there is a return tube that will pulse oil. It may take 20-25 kicks till you see oil return but at least it's there before the engine starts. Have Fun!
Follow your suggestion I drained the oil and it is very clean, it seems the seller was right and in bike and engine did not run, most probably the engine has only been tested. I am waiting for a kit of Imperial tools and there is not much I can do with usual metric tools. The sump screen will have to wait.

I removed mufflers, exhaust pipes (the exhaust valves are totally clean and look quite new) and rearsets. The left side foot peg and gear lever was not properly mounted for it was set higher than the right side one. I will clean and check every part and screw and I will mount them properly.
 
Regarding the front master brake cylinder I read on the forum that the Andover original one extended to 13m bore it is advisable because improves the braking power.
Unfortunately this will not suit my Commando because I am not going to combine it with the OEM switch but with an older version to get a cafe racer style.
Alternatively I also found this from Brembo.
Starting cafe racer restoration Commando 850 MK3 from Spain


I would like to use a more classic one with round reservoir built in like the Andover one. Can anybody tell me which compatible models should I look for? I was thinking about some Honda 13mm ones, will they be compatible?
 
Please keep posting photos of your work and progress.
It is always interesting and fun to see how each motorcycle is approached.
Appears to be a solid choice for restoring...make sure you have fun!
 
Regarding the front master brake cylinder I read on the forum that the Andover original one extended to 13m bore it is advisable because improves the braking power.
Unfortunately this will not suit my Commando because I am not going to combine it with the OEM switch but with an older version to get a cafe racer style.
Alternatively I also found this from Brembo.
View attachment 102729

I would like to use a more classic one with round reservoir built in like the Andover one. Can anybody tell me which compatible models should I look for? I was thinking about some Honda 13mm ones, will they be compatible?
This Brembo one can use the original switches ( with adaptor plate) , in case you change your mind! Can be bought from other suppliers in Europe, of course.
 
the modern starter motor from Norvil is very good, and bolts straight in, and runs with positive or negative earth.
 
Where is the battery on this bike?

The oil tank on yours is not stock, and the battery tray usually sits under the stock tank and above the isolastics.


You would do well to go to uprated starter cables.
 
The bikes has not any battery now, my plan is to build my own seat+cowl and hide on the cowl a Lithium battery to get a cafe racer style Commando.
It also lacks ignition system and wiring and my plan is to make a new wiring with negative ground, a fully electronic system, electronic ignition/rectifier and new alternator. I want to be totally safe and problem free about electric system.
 
It is a very nice bike and has lots of potential. I would rubber mount the carbs. A small enough 12 volt lithium battery can be difficult to find. I don't like using ballast resistors.
 
The bikes has not any battery now, my plan is to build my own seat+cowl and hide on the cowl a Lithium battery to get a cafe racer style Commando.
It also lacks ignition system and wiring and my plan is to make a new wiring with negative ground, a fully electronic system, electronic ignition/rectifier and new alternator. I want to be totally safe and problem free about electric system.
Check out Grant's page, a wealth of electronic info

 
It is a very nice bike and has lots of potential. I would rubber mount the carbs. A small enough 12 volt lithium battery can be difficult to find. I don't like using ballast resistors.
My plan is to use the same Lithium battery I used on two of my 1000cc Ducatis it is quite small and produce CCA 300A, Capacity 5Ah. I hope it will be powerful enough to feed the starter motor.
 
Did you build the BMW café racer in the icon photo above your name?
Oh yes! It is also a 1975 model I restored myself and transformed into a bobber style. It is a R90/6 model. You can find some pictures on this post

 
I have another technical question:

Due to the bike condition I cannot test run the bike but sitting over the bike seems to me that the shocks that come with the bike are not in their best condition. They seem to lack rebound retention. I would like to securely and comfortably ride my bike, can you suggest me which good rear shocks should I install? I would like to keep the classic look but with good suspension quality.
 
I have another technical question:

Due to the bike condition I cannot test run the bike but sitting over the bike seems to me that the shocks that come with the bike are not in their best condition. They seem to lack rebound retention. I would like to securely and comfortably ride my bike, can you suggest me which good rear shocks should I install? I would like to keep the classic look but with good suspension quality.
You need to decide how good is good vs how much classic look you want vs cost.

In Europe at least, probably the best suspension is from Maxton in U.K. they custom build to your weight etc and can custom build the length. Lots of racer boys use them, so, looks wise they look right on a ‘serious’ cafe racer.

Again, depending on your definition of good and cost, Maxton also do custom set up modern fork cartridge internals.

K-Tech make a great ’classic’ shock but I’m not aware of an off the shelf Commando offering yet.

Also custom built, and very good, are Falcon Shocks.

Hagon do an off the shelf ‘performance’ shock.

Ikon shocks are good (hNw sell Ikons for Commando).

Maxton shocks on a Commando:

4459D81A-9C1C-41AD-B292-0BD312AE4300.jpeg
 
My plan is to use the same Lithium battery I used on two of my 1000cc Ducatis it is quite small and produce CCA 300A, Capacity 5Ah. I hope it will be powerful enough to feed the starter motor.
I have been running a Shorai LFX18L1-BS12 for the last six years or so and it turns my starter with ease. 270 CCA and 18Ah.

I would be concerned with a 5Ah battery for e-start.
 
You need to decide how good is good vs how much classic look you want vs cost.

In Europe at least, probably the best suspension is from Maxton in U.K. they custom build to your weight etc and can custom build the length. Lots of racer boys use them, so, looks wise they look right on a ‘serious’ cafe racer.

Again, depending on your definition of good and cost, Maxton also do custom set up modern fork cartridge internals.

K-Tech make a great ’classic’ shock but I’m not aware of an off the shelf Commando offering yet.

Also custom built, and very good, are Falcon Shocks.

Hagon do an off the shelf ‘performance’ shock.

Ikon shocks are good (hNw sell Ikons for Commando).

Maxton shocks on a Commando:

View attachment 102767
Hi Eddie,

I will study your interesting and complete report, since keeping the classic look is capital to me I will probably study the Hagon to see if they have adjustable ones (at least preload and hydraulic rebound).
Your Commando looks impressive and such deep upgrade must be a rocket to ride!
For my MKIII I will try to make a cafe racer that a guy from the seventies would have done with a look closer to a Triton and within these limits I will try to get good suspension, brakes and handling.
 
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