seattle##gs
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,146
A MK3 showed after approx 7 years to replace the kickstart shaft. It was new but destroyed because the owner would not tighten the kick start lever when it needed it. By the way, AN now wants around $300 for the complete shaft so try to make yours last as long as possible. The price for a new KS + KS shaft is about $400 now...then there's labor.
So...the owner finds a new KS shaft and MK3 KS lever for $100. (alarm bell going off) The shaft did not have enough clearance for the pawl assy. and the hole was not drilled deep enough for the spring and plunger. I had to shorten the pair and remove maybe .030 where the pawl meet the shaft. This took about two hours of careful cutting and fitting. Next was the lever itself which required REALLY spreading it over the shaft. This was a lot of frustrating work and I would recommend being VERY suspicious of non AN parts.
On the brighter side, When I assembled the GB 7 years ago I used anti-seize on the gaskets, both sides. The gb was holding oil no problem. They came apart quickly and easily with a tap from a dead blow hammer. No scraping necessary. They came off so well that I believe I could have re-used them if I had to but of course I used new gaskets. This is a huge time saver.
Inside the box, it has been running ATF for seven years. The bushing on the layshaft showed only slight wear. Everything looked great inside. The shafts looked very good. I drained the oil and found no shiny flakes in the oil. Jim Comstock recommended ATF and now, here's a bike with 7 years on it showing very good lubrication.
On to the primary...Again, anti-seize on the gasket. With just a slight tap on the case with a dead blow it popped apart...no struggle. no prying, no muss, no fuss. The gasket was so good that I re-used it ( I did not have a new one). I put in #30 oil and 24 hrs later no leaks.
Interesting observations. These have stood the test of time.
So...the owner finds a new KS shaft and MK3 KS lever for $100. (alarm bell going off) The shaft did not have enough clearance for the pawl assy. and the hole was not drilled deep enough for the spring and plunger. I had to shorten the pair and remove maybe .030 where the pawl meet the shaft. This took about two hours of careful cutting and fitting. Next was the lever itself which required REALLY spreading it over the shaft. This was a lot of frustrating work and I would recommend being VERY suspicious of non AN parts.
On the brighter side, When I assembled the GB 7 years ago I used anti-seize on the gaskets, both sides. The gb was holding oil no problem. They came apart quickly and easily with a tap from a dead blow hammer. No scraping necessary. They came off so well that I believe I could have re-used them if I had to but of course I used new gaskets. This is a huge time saver.
Inside the box, it has been running ATF for seven years. The bushing on the layshaft showed only slight wear. Everything looked great inside. The shafts looked very good. I drained the oil and found no shiny flakes in the oil. Jim Comstock recommended ATF and now, here's a bike with 7 years on it showing very good lubrication.
On to the primary...Again, anti-seize on the gasket. With just a slight tap on the case with a dead blow it popped apart...no struggle. no prying, no muss, no fuss. The gasket was so good that I re-used it ( I did not have a new one). I put in #30 oil and 24 hrs later no leaks.
Interesting observations. These have stood the test of time.
