ashman
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- Jul 11, 2010
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Reading the threat with Piedrodn about first gear jump out, a lot of replies about clutch operation and stopped at lights, so instead of hi jacking a thread I through I start a new thread on clutches and stops.
There is a big debate on clutch plates and heavy Norton/Commando clutches, what plates are used for best lightness etc as well putting the bike in neutral when stopped at lights, everyone seems to have different views of that subject, whether in neutral or in gear with clutch in.
I start with clutch plates, heavy or light, I am still running the original clutch plates from the factory from new (48+ years now), my clutch has always been light, one finger if I wanted too light, but of course when riding I use all my 4 fingers on the clutch lever when using it, my clutch has over 160k miles on it and my Norton has been an everyday rider most of its life except for down times and upgrades as happens with a near 50 year old bike (74 850) the only thing I have replaced in my clutch is the clutch centre, new pressure plate and ven clutch cable and running ATF fluid in the primary, I use to go through broken clutch cable a fair bit in my early days till I started to put grease on the cable end that runs through the adjuster, haven't broken one since, about 40 years now.
There was 3 years when I ran different fiber clutch plates when I misplaced my original clutch plates when doing the Featherbed conversion back in 82, was in an oil filled container with an old primary chain on top of it stuck under my work bench and I was running a belt drive at the time, I was still using the belt drive with the original clutch plates for a few years after but had a quick bite with the bronze plates, but I started to have troubles with the belt drive so ended back to chain primary.
I have never done the stack height with my clutch, no problems with sticking clutch plates since using ATF fluid in my primary, have never had GB fluid migrate to my clutch and not using a clutch seal on the rod, I just don't over fill my GB and I put grease on the clutch rod when it's out for clutch maintenance and is the only time I have to adjust the clutch adjustments.
My gearbox has only been rebuilt when the dreaded layshaft bearing blew, but the kick start gear has been replace from wear with the KS pawl and broken KS shaft where the pawl mounts, I can't understand why most have heavy clutch pull and why so many don't like the bronze clutch plates as I have never had any problems with mine and such long life with trouble free clutch use.
Now for the debate on whether stopping at lights with the bike in neutral or with the clutch and in gear, after owning and riding British bikes for 50 years I always stop at lights with clutch engaged and in gear, the debate about cables breaking or burning out clutches, really, I am always ready to go as soon as the lights change the only time I do engage neutral if I know the lights take longer to change but will engage first before they change if I go down that road very rare I put any of my bikes in neutral at lights, as for the idea of a clutch cable breaking while in gear, well I always have my hand on the front brake while at lights, common sense really and my Norton has always had a light clutch and my 1200 Thruxton has an even lighter clutch.
I have also watch other bikers at traffic light and seen so many when the light change and they have to engage first gear and slow to doing that and being rush so many stuffing up and snuffing it and cars behind then starting to move, and to be honest I don't ever remember snuffing any of my bikes at lights.
In my own opinion I think it's more dangerous stopping at lights in neutral and what about the ones with clutch problems with engaging neutral in the first place or engaging first gear for that matter, no for me hand on clutch and in gear and ready to go for a quick take off.
I know lots are going to have different opinions on this matter, but hey I love a good debate, and don't get upset or rude if others have different opinions to your own.
Ashley
There is a big debate on clutch plates and heavy Norton/Commando clutches, what plates are used for best lightness etc as well putting the bike in neutral when stopped at lights, everyone seems to have different views of that subject, whether in neutral or in gear with clutch in.
I start with clutch plates, heavy or light, I am still running the original clutch plates from the factory from new (48+ years now), my clutch has always been light, one finger if I wanted too light, but of course when riding I use all my 4 fingers on the clutch lever when using it, my clutch has over 160k miles on it and my Norton has been an everyday rider most of its life except for down times and upgrades as happens with a near 50 year old bike (74 850) the only thing I have replaced in my clutch is the clutch centre, new pressure plate and ven clutch cable and running ATF fluid in the primary, I use to go through broken clutch cable a fair bit in my early days till I started to put grease on the cable end that runs through the adjuster, haven't broken one since, about 40 years now.
There was 3 years when I ran different fiber clutch plates when I misplaced my original clutch plates when doing the Featherbed conversion back in 82, was in an oil filled container with an old primary chain on top of it stuck under my work bench and I was running a belt drive at the time, I was still using the belt drive with the original clutch plates for a few years after but had a quick bite with the bronze plates, but I started to have troubles with the belt drive so ended back to chain primary.
I have never done the stack height with my clutch, no problems with sticking clutch plates since using ATF fluid in my primary, have never had GB fluid migrate to my clutch and not using a clutch seal on the rod, I just don't over fill my GB and I put grease on the clutch rod when it's out for clutch maintenance and is the only time I have to adjust the clutch adjustments.
My gearbox has only been rebuilt when the dreaded layshaft bearing blew, but the kick start gear has been replace from wear with the KS pawl and broken KS shaft where the pawl mounts, I can't understand why most have heavy clutch pull and why so many don't like the bronze clutch plates as I have never had any problems with mine and such long life with trouble free clutch use.
Now for the debate on whether stopping at lights with the bike in neutral or with the clutch and in gear, after owning and riding British bikes for 50 years I always stop at lights with clutch engaged and in gear, the debate about cables breaking or burning out clutches, really, I am always ready to go as soon as the lights change the only time I do engage neutral if I know the lights take longer to change but will engage first before they change if I go down that road very rare I put any of my bikes in neutral at lights, as for the idea of a clutch cable breaking while in gear, well I always have my hand on the front brake while at lights, common sense really and my Norton has always had a light clutch and my 1200 Thruxton has an even lighter clutch.
I have also watch other bikers at traffic light and seen so many when the light change and they have to engage first gear and slow to doing that and being rush so many stuffing up and snuffing it and cars behind then starting to move, and to be honest I don't ever remember snuffing any of my bikes at lights.
In my own opinion I think it's more dangerous stopping at lights in neutral and what about the ones with clutch problems with engaging neutral in the first place or engaging first gear for that matter, no for me hand on clutch and in gear and ready to go for a quick take off.
I know lots are going to have different opinions on this matter, but hey I love a good debate, and don't get upset or rude if others have different opinions to your own.
Ashley
