What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

[Tornado]

Second time I've seen this but surely you mean Ferodo shoes?

Ha ha..yes you're right. They were hard to source from my regular suppliers...MotoParts Inc in Alberta, Walridge in Ontario, AN in UK all not listed. Went to British Cycle Supply in Nova Scotia for the first time and they had them. I believe Classic bike Supply and Bonneville Shop in the US list them, but alas i will not be sending my money South anytime soon.

 

[Tornado]

Mike - Do tell us the results of that check - as well as where you got the drum from. I'm considering buying a spare drum for my 520 set-up.
Cheers
Rob

One thing I noticed when looking at the original drum and the new one off the bike, new had a built up shoulder around the bearing/axle hole...much more pronounced than the original. I wonder if this was a design change due to drum warping or other distortion?

 

[robs ss]

One thing I noticed when looking at the original drum and the new one off the bike, new had a built up shoulder around the bearing/axle hole...much more pronounced than the original. I wonder if this was a design change due to drum warping or other distortion?

Where did you get your drum & sprocket?

 

[Tornado]

Where did you get your drum & sprocket?

It was from my usual supplier based in Alberta...MotoParts Inc....most stuff from them are just from AN in the UK. Cardboard box had no marking to elucidate further.

 

[YING]

Mike - Do tell us the results of that check - as well as where you got the drum from. I'm considering buying a spare drum for my 520 set-up.
Cheers
Rob

Rob,
I got the new drum and counter shaft sprocket from Greg Marsh when I went with an x-ring chain. I think they are from AN but not sure.My problem is not with the drum as I had it checked yesterday and not out of round.When I took it apart again the shoes looked like they are hitting more surface area which is a good thing so I am going to use a block sander on the shiny spots of the shoes and re-assemble. I hope with a few more miles they will settle in.If that doesn’t work I will try to source another backing plate again. I am following all the proper steps to get it centered,etc.and will let you know. I want it to work like Tornadoes!
Mike

 

[robs ss]

Rob,
I got the new drum and counter shaft sprocket from Greg Marsh when I went with an x-ring chain. I think they are from AN but not sure.My problem is not with the drum as I had it checked yesterday and not out of round.When I took it apart again the shoes looked like they are hitting more surface area which is a good thing so I am going to use a block sander on the shiny spots of the shoes and re-assemble. I hope with a few more miles they will settle in.If that doesn’t work I will try to source another backing plate again. I am following all the proper steps to get it centered,etc.and will let you know. I want it to work like Tornadoes!
Mike

Yep - I'm looking to buy a spare drum & 22T sprocket (520) to put on the shelf, but not sure where to buy.
I see RGM sells them but AN does not (confirmed by email today).
Not sure who else has their own - any tips anyone?
Cheers

 

[Fast Eddie]

Yep - I'm looking to buy a spare drum & 22T sprocket (520) to put on the shelf, but not sure where to buy.
I see RGM sells them but AN does not (confirmed by email today).
Not sure who else has their own - any tips anyone?
Cheers

What’s wrong with the RGM one ?

 

[robs ss]

What’s wrong with the RGM one ?

Nothing that I know of - was just canvassing what was available before deciding

 

[ntst8]

After 17 years of use the FCR's needed a birthday, one float needle had stopped sealing so treated the pair to a rebuild kit - float needles, float seats, O-rings & pump diaphragm.

 

[robs ss]

After 17 years of use the FCR's needed a birthday, one float needle had stopped sealing so treated the pair to a rebuild kit - float needles, float seats, O-rings & pump diaphragm.
View attachment 121288

Have a careful look at the vacuum release plates (on the slides in your photo) as there is evidence that failure of these can enter the port and hold a valve open - ughhh!
Also ensure o-ring #37 (I think) on the diagram is replaced - @Fast Eddie had a bad experience with these!
Cheers

 

[ntst8]

Thanks Rob,
i had a good look at the plates, some light wear marks but seem to be sound so they have gone back in with new seals.
Valve seats came with new o-rings so should be all good there.
The worst o-rings were on the drain bolts on the float bowls, well deformed, and the two small ones in the pump felt hard so the replacements should be an improvement.

 

[Fast Eddie]

The O ring Rob is referring to is the float needle housing o ring. It seals the housing to the float bowl body.

When that goes fuel by passes the housing… giving the symptoms of a failed needle seating.

It sits at the bottom, permanently submerged and at the mercy of ethanol etc.

They really should be changed whilst you’re doing this.

Note it is a unique and thin section o ring. Poor quality kits come with an o ring that is too fat to fit properly, forcing it makes the housing sit poorly.

 

[ntst8]

Good info thanks. A failed seal might explain the past issues, i've had the carbs apart for cleaning 3 times trying to cure the flooding before resorting to spending money.
The kit included new float needles, needle housings with o rings and locating screws. I very lightly silicone greased the o rings and the seats dropped most of the way in then with a gentle push popped home. They were sitting nice and flush before the screws went in.

 

[Fast Eddie]

Good info thanks. A failed seal might explain the past issues, i've had the carbs apart for cleaning 3 times trying to cure the flooding before resorting to spending money.
The kit included new float needles, needle housings with o rings and locating screws. I very lightly silicone greased the o rings and the seats dropped most of the way in then with a gentle push popped home. They were sitting nice and flush before the screws went in.

Sounds like you’re good

 

[Torontonian]

Drove all over Manitoulin island and back home to Toronto , 1800 kms. Only issue was a cracked flare end at the left side exh. into the head . Welded up on Manitoulin . Very busy mid summer . Enjoy .

 

[Cuppy]

Took a 20 mile ride to drop off some papers at my dad's place. Bike starts 1st kick when cold and runs flawlessly from idle through all throttle positions. Problem is frequently it won't start when hot. Today it was 75F and engine seemed average temp for what I would expect. Carb bowls were hot but not too hot to touch. Have the thick phenolic insulators installed. RH side tickler had no fuel initially but fuel at LH side. Even with fuel at both ticklers could not get even a pop until I let the bike cool down for 20-30 mins. I confirmed it wasn't flooded and it made no difference on throttle position. This is common but always starts 1st kick after the cool down. I am wondering if the Tri Spark stator is overheating? Next time I will try the self test to see if that is the case.

 

[cliffa]

Took a 20 mile ride to drop off some papers at my dad's place. Bike starts 1st kick when cold and runs flawlessly from idle through all throttle positions. Problem is frequently it won't start when hot. Today it was 75F and engine seemed average temp for what I would expect. Carb bowls were hot but not too hot to touch. Have the thick phenolic insulators installed. RH side tickler had no fuel initially but fuel at LH side. Even with fuel at both ticklers could not get even a pop until I let the bike cool down for 20-30 mins. I confirmed it wasn't flooded and it made no difference on throttle position. This is common but always starts 1st kick after the cool down. I am wondering if the Tri Spark stator is overheating? Next time I will try the self test to see if that is the case.

It does sound like heat soak, so definitely worth checking the TRI Spark, and maybe the coils?

 

[nortonmargie]

Yesterday: set forth to replace kickstarter (worn teeth) and add a little liquid gasket to the outer edge of the hole in the gearbox for the shaft. The gearbox is leaking despite new seal, and there is a little damage to that hole. Andover sells the lever without the foot pedal much cheaper than the whole assembly. I removed the pedal from the old kickstart, assembled it to the new kickstart without issues and carefully wiped liquid gasket around the seal. Next, I tried to screw the bolt into the kickstart assembly. It refused to work. Off to an old fashioned hardware store near me. [Public service announcement- Cherish these places! Yes stuff is a little more expensive than the big box or the Internet, but the knowledge and customer service is INVALUABLE]

Clerk took a look at old bolt, confirmed that bottom threads were messed up, and tried screwing it in to a 10 mm nut on the wall. It fit perfectly. Clerk found me a bolt that would work, and let me test it on kickstart, which I had brought with me. This 99 cent bolt worked perfectly, and I went home and assembled kickstarter. Shaft does not rattle on lever (yay!) and does not rattle in gearbox (yay yay!)

Today: Went for 20 mile ride. Bike ran fine. It is now up on centerstand. I will check for leaks tomorrow.

Mystery: Why did a bolt that is supposedly an Andover Norton bolt and had very little wear refuse to cooperate?

 

[Stevo]

Rode the bike for an hour to the Return of the British car and bike show in Rugby, Tennessee. A great trip in scorching heat and some beautiful vehicles were displayed. Not many bikes but still came away with first prize! Sorry, no pics of the show.

 

[L.A.B.]

The headlamp brackets are fitted upside down on the wrong sides and the rear brake cable needs rerouting over the Z plate.