Replacement oil feed lines

McSurf wrote:
Have you guys had problems with the stock plastic lines? My bike has homemade lines that I want to replace. Is the stainless the way to go vs the plastic or is it just a matter of asthetics?
McSurf,
The plastic lines do get brittle with heat and age. I have both the braided stainless lines and plastic lines. I also have made my own lines from old fittings and new truck air brake lines. My home made lines have been working perfectly for over ten years, but I do inspect them at the beginning of each riding season. The stainless lines are fit and forget. For me the difference is ~$85 USD for the stainless or free for the plastic (a diesel mechanic buddy gives me scraps of air brake line). You pay your money and you take your choice.

Your choice will also depend on what materials you have access to :!:

For me, not having a friend who is a diesel mechanic, truck airline is basically unobtanium, free or othewise. So I purchased braided stainless lines. They do look very nice.

DPO used plain black fuel line from the hardware store :shock:
It actually held up (until I replaced it) but the engine had no oil pressure.

Debby

Right you are Debby. A new factory line is about $55 USD. At that price the $85 braided stainless is less significantly expensive.
As I stated earlier, I have a couple braided stainless lines and do like them. However, some brands have a hose end which is too thick to let the banjo seat square on the head. Check this carefully. I corrected this by adding a second copper washer under the banjo.
I should add that the air brake line is the only thing I have found to be acceptable. Do not try to make lines from rubber hose, vinyl tubing, or even teflon tubing. DAMHIK.

oil lines

Greetings All,
Not all of the plastic lines are created equal. A few years back I ran into Dyno Dave at a British meet in Connecticut. I was telling Dave that I was having a little leak problem with the rocker feed line. I had been to the local auto supply and purchased the correct airbrake line (readily available and cheap). However, the Banjo fittings of the line were cheap aftermarket type (IE. single barb with a smooth undefined edge as opposed to the correct double barb with the sharp defined edge). Dave claims that you can use a tube flaring clamp to hold the end of the line (sticking up just so) then smack in the banjo barb in with a soft mallet.
I was able to find the correct banjo ends later in the day from the various junk dealers at the meet, unfortunately I missplaced them somewhere at home. Eventually I ended up with the stainless lines and another debt on the credit card.
justa thought,
GB

Ok, stainless it is and thank you all for chiming in. Anybody want to recommend a source. I've seem some real pretty ones for sale but they were more like $185. Ron, where did you see the $85 lines?

McSurf,
Fred Eaton at Old Britts makes his own stainless lines which are one piece just like the factory for $85. He also has the made in England ones which use two separate lines and a double banjo bolt for $95.

Any talk of oil lines should mention the fact that it is much cleaner and sharper looking to kill of the cross over line. You just drill out the intake rocker shafts with a 1/8 drill bit. See pictures http://groups.msn.com/Brit-Fe-Pics/shoe ... hotoID=159 note that the other hose now goes to a oil gage now. The odicur clamps take away any need to shim or worry and keep the cost down to the price of the raw line. norbsa

norbsa48503 said:

You just drill out the intake rocker shafts with a 1/8 drill bit.

Click to expand...

That explains it. I wigged out when I first got my Kenny Dreer, VR 880 and noticed there was no oil feed on the left, only a single feed on the right. I knew something had been done, just not exactly sure what.

Norbsa, just wondering. With this mod, could a single feed be run from the left for the oil gauge?

Oh yes, By useing two single fittings one on each side you could do that.