I agree, That is where you are looking for people/companys that can do the job for you. I wonder sometimes if our NOC breatheren are worse off over the pond than we are here, due to the distances involved between where the people/facilitys are and yourself.
....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.
I listed the prices on the TrueDisk web site. I have discount shipping and I normally send 2-3 disks at a time, so I pay quite a lot less than I posted. If there were a decent machine shop in my area, I am positive that they would charge WAY more and that would be turned, not ground. The last pair I sent was less than $120 total including shipping both ways for the grinding - I didn't have them drilled.
I have - used the mill on my Smithy but it is really a glorified drill press .....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.
Inexpensive, effective modifications to improve performance.
Who remembers those days?
Who here has layed out the pattern , and then drilled their own discs on a simple drill press?
In the car world, drilled discs have fallen out of favour, they cause stress and cracking of the disc, so they are seen as a cosmetic alteration that reduces performance. Slots are the fashion now....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.
Inexpensive, effective modifications to improve performance.
Who remembers those days?
Who here has layed out the pattern , and then drilled their own discs on a simple drill press?
I understand the value of weight reduction but do holes or slots improve stopping power, fade, pad life, cooling, or anything else? Just asking, I have no clue
Its a shame you don't live next door to me, the money you would save and the money i would make would be a great arrangement!
Hard to say for me - the braking is definitely improved but that is likely a combination of the grinding , sleeved MC, etc. I believe it to be marginally better in the wet but again this is subjective.
It's a shame I live in the hellhole 8 miles from Washington DC
The intent of cross drilled rotors is to help the gases coming off the pads at high temp to escape, thus keep pad material in better contact with rotor surface. Advantage likely only going to be perceived at racing level operation. Some added cooling, some minor weight reduction. Stress cracks were a thing when drilling first appeared, but essentially eliminated by chamfering the holes a wee bit.
Tornado above has covered the main points, but modern pads don't give off the same gasses that earlier pads did, so the drilling has lost much of its original purpose. Performance shops sell drilled rotors because people want to buy them, they look good, but you won't find them on many seriously fast machines, slots are a much better option.
Your failed, resleeved M/C's were done by who? or whos resleeve kit was used? I've fitted loads of the RGM kits and never had a failure
That's interesting and thanks for doing that.
Just solved the chrome rotor weakness on my T160.
I went for the drilled & lightened version on mine - still cheap as.
I went for the drilled & lightened version on mine - still cheap as.
Did it make any difference? I seriously doubt it!
I can't say I noticed the change in the all-important un-sprung weight either.
On the subject of drilled/slotted discs, the latest motorsport trend is C-Hook grooves.
I fitted a pair to my previously plain disc equipped car and when braking from speed it sounded like a Lancaster Bomber on final approach
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