Rebuilt the Sunburst

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Yves, it’s clear from the pictures that weld is no good, the bike is dangerous and should be written off. Because you are a friend I will help you by buying the scrap motorcycle from you. Let me know a suitable time to come and collect...
 
View attachment 20691
Here another pic from the welding, to me must be OK no?
View attachment 20686
Minovation triple trees mounted with new bearings
View attachment 20687
Head and cylinder blasted by Herman aka Mutanawe, perfect job Herman!
View attachment 20689
The cylinder head is empty, rockers and valves out
View attachment 20688
Why do I weld a piece on top of the inlet cover? The cover is from my former engine
View attachment 20690
Inlet manifold by Matt CNW
Nothing wrong with that welding Yves
 
Hi there,
Tomorrow I will change one of the stanchions.
Kenny Cumings was so kind to send me the mounting documents for the Consentino fork internals, but so far I don't know how to dismantel it.
If a member know how to do it?
This will be my last working day for 2020
Keep you posted at 2021
Yves
Nothing wrong with that welding Yves
Thanks Baz
 
I've been a professional bronze/brass welder for 20 years. The weld looks fine. It's not visibly ideal, as it doesn't straddle the join equally, but we can only see the outside of the weld. There are techniques that are used to insure there's brass on the inside of the join as well, so what's visible is only half the story. The only "porosity" looks to be a bit of overcooking the brass where it was tacked up at the corner of the miter. Easy to end up with, since a good tack requires a lot more heat than laying down a fillet, and indicative of the techniques used to insure there's brass on the inside of the join.

The headstock uses much thicker tubing than the down tubes, so would require the angle of the torch very much biased toward the headstock to avoid the brass running up onto the downtube. Fillet brazing is slow-motion welding, so it ends up being very deliberate. If you're working quickly, laying down that stretch of fillet would take at least 30 seconds, so I'd have a hard time believing an expert such as Titmarsh, would end up with the fillet in the wrong place over that amount of time.

With Titmarsh's expertise and experience making these frames for years, I wouldn't think about it again and wring its neck without a worry. I've seen and fixed WAY "worse" than that on bikes that had been run for decades without an issue.
 
I've been a professional bronze/brass welder for 20 years. The weld looks fine. It's not visibly ideal, as it doesn't straddle the join equally, but we can only see the outside of the weld. There are techniques that are used to insure there's brass on the inside of the join as well, so what's visible is only half the story. The only "porosity" looks to be a bit of overcooking the brass where it was tacked up at the corner of the miter. Easy to end up with, since a good tack requires a lot more heat than laying down a fillet, and indicative of the techniques used to insure there's brass on the inside of the join.

The headstock uses much thicker tubing than the down tubes, so would require the angle of the torch very much biased toward the headstock to avoid the brass running up onto the downtube. Fillet brazing is slow-motion welding, so it ends up being very deliberate. If you're working quickly, laying down that stretch of fillet would take at least 30 seconds, so I'd have a hard time believing an expert such as Titmarsh, would end up with the fillet in the wrong place over that amount of time.

With Titmarsh's expertise and experience making these frames for years, I wouldn't think about it again and wring its neck without a worry. I've seen and fixed WAY "worse" than that on bikes that had been run for decades without an issue.
Thanks Friend
 
Hi There
To day I change the scratched stanchion on my left fork leg, I change also the oil seals, bushing and oil on both fork legs (150 cc viscosity 5)
I will use Vaseline on the top of the stanchions to slide in the fork yokes.
There is a street downtown Brussel full with gay bars, we call it "Vaseline street"
When I am passing in the Vaseline steet, I put a metalic "one way" sign on my back side

Saturday I will polish the forks, but before I must stay two days out of the workshop, I will try to survive.
See you at 2021
Happy new year
Yves
Try Thermoid 7318 hose - its woven with fabric and very tough.
If I can find it in Belgium, if not you can ad it to my order
Thanks Jim
 
Hi There
To day I change the scratched stanchion on my left fork leg, I change also the oil seals, bushing and oil on both fork legs (150 cc viscosity 5)
I will use Vaseline on the top of the stanchions to slide in the fork yokes.
There is a street downtown Brussel full with gay bars, we call it "Vaseline street"
When I am passing in the Vaseline steet, I put a metalic "one way" sign on my back side

Saturday I will polish the forks, but before I must stay two days out of the workshop, I will try to survive.
See you at 2021
Happy new year
Yves

If I can find it in Belgium, if not you can ad it to my order
Thanks Jim
What bushings are you going with?
 
Salut Yves & All,

I installed Jim's Turcite bushings in place of bronze ones and it's really a very positive upgrade.
At first sight, I thought they were a bit too tight but after a few movements of the forks and with the oil having been spread everywhere, it was perfect. Not too much stiction and very precise sliding of the forks.

Bonne année / Happy New to you All !

Laurent
 
Metal sign that says "one way",..... well Yves, good to see you haven't lost your sense of humor :)
 
Salut Yves & All,

I installed Jim's Turcite bushings in place of bronze ones and it's really a very positive upgrade.
At first sight, I thought they were a bit too tight but after a few movements of the forks and with the oil having been spread everywhere, it was perfect. Not too much stiction and very precise sliding of the forks.

Bonne année / Happy New to you All !

Laurent
Bonne année a toi aussi Laurent
Yves
 
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