Oil Change Demon

For re-cutting threads use a 2 or 3 flute spiral tap, those taps push the cut chips up and out of the hole they don't just break the chips and drop the chip into the bottom of the hole.
For the in-line strainer I remember that using 2 O-Rings was a fix for the leak
 
cliffa said:
Blimey, what a mess!

If you run a tap in, fill the flutes with grease first, and it will capture most of the swarf.
Click to expand...
^^^^ THIS plus run positive pressure through the fill cap side. That way, it blows the bits back out, not into the hole you are tapping. It doesn't take much air. This is one of those tricks an old mechanic passed down to me.
 
speirmoor said:
For re-cutting threads use a 2 or 3 flute spiral tap, those taps push the cut chips up and out of the hole they don't just break the chips and drop the chip into the bottom of the hole.
For the in-line strainer I remember that using 2 O-Rings was a fix for the leak
Click to expand...
For all liquid threads, we use this. Gear plug, engine plug, fill caps, you name it. works great and is super easy to clean up. Lubricates threads as well

Permatex Thread Seal
 
Thanks guys - gonna have another good look today and follow that advice.

Carefully clean the current thread up as best I can (as described), new level plug - see how secure it feels. Any doubt, JB Weld it in and leave until if/when I get proper access. Change g’box oil again before test ride and several times over the next few hundred miles.

As we know the earlier models didn’t have this level plug 👍.
 
speirmoor said:
For re-cutting threads use a 2 or 3 flute spiral tap, those taps push the cut chips up and out of the hole they don't just break the chips and drop the chip into the bottom of the hole.
For the in-line strainer I remember that using 2 O-Rings was a fix for the leak
Click to expand...
Found a suitable replacement O-ring I believe. Removed the top hose clamping ring to get at the whole strainer assembly. Cleaned everything, new o-ring, hold assembly vertical (as shown) and carefully screw on the cap.

Cap sits about 1mm higher than it did previously - hopefully sat squarely on the O-ring. No leaks at run-up pressure so we’ll see when I get to test ride. Storm coming to the (not so) Sunny Coast!

Oil Change Demon
 
The inline filter is to protect this tiny check valve from debris that could block or stick it open. The valve is actually the tiny ball bearing in the centre. I dont like it, I feel it's a wank idea, the valve that is. But that's just my personal, uneducated grease monkey view.
As CG mentioned, check the oil lines on frame pre 2016, as they can kink under the fuel rail. Later frames, nicknamed on production as the dogs dick frame, has the oil line coming out at a different angle, so it wont kink.
Primary level bungs...the crankcase wall can be very thin on some engines, and the standard level bung has a waisted section close to the head....so you end up with around one and a half thread engagement. As such, I don't touch them...just drain and refill to measure.
Oil Change Demon
 
Stu Bodycote said:
The inline filter is to protect this tiny check valve from debris that could block or stick it open. The valve is actually the tiny ball bearing in the centre. I dont like it, I feel it's a wank idea, the valve that is. But that's just my personal, uneducated grease monkey view.
As CG mentioned, check the oil lines on frame pre 2016, as they can kink under the fuel rail. Later frames, nicknamed on production as the dogs dick frame, has the oil line coming out at a different angle, so it wont kink.
Primary level bungs...the crankcase wall can be very thin on some engines, and the standard level bung has a waisted section close to the head....so you end up with around one and a half thread engagement. As such, I don't touch them...just drain and refill to measure.
View attachment 118685
Click to expand...
totally agree. they could of at least sized the check ball to the size of the hose, so you are not helping starvation.
 
Still resolving a few issues resulting from previous servicing. The mechanic really did make a complete hash - nothing torqued to spec, just F(F)T everywhere! If you’re servicing for the first time, take care with those fixings.

A closer look shows that he’d stripped the g’box level plug thread, but had in fact fitted a helicoil insert which he then damaged by fitting the stripped plug. The lesson - as Stu’s stated, better not touching the g’box level plug at all. Not necessary when servicing.

One of the oil filter cover screws is also stripped - I can nip it up lightly but it won’t take 6 Nm. That’ll need to be fixed. Most won’t have a torque wrench for that low range application so will just use judgement - easy to overtighten/strip if you’re ‘ham fisted’ (like my last mechanic).

So my new mantra is do it yourself - unless you know/trust the mechanic. Assumptions make an ass out of ……etc. etc..!

IMG_1849.jpeg

Few further observations.

- the O’ring that comes with the Bosch P9147 oil filter is significantly thicker than the original (RHS). It does not fit into the housing recess well. Have others used this o’ring?

IMG_7964.jpeg

All of the fixings during service can be easily torqued, less the sump plug - unless ya remove the exhausts. Not worth the hassle IMO. Rear sprocket cover removal gives (just) enough room to torque the upper oil pump banjo union. A great time to check serviceability/security of the drive sprocket.

IMG_7962.jpeg

Replacing the oil pump Banjo Union copper washers (or annealing them ‘correctly’) is essential. Ask me how I know!

May be of use to someone.
 
Last edited:
Stephen_Spencer said:
Still resolving a few issues resulting from previous servicing. The mechanic really did make a complete hash - nothing torqued to spec, just F(F)T everywhere! If you’re servicing for the first time, take care with those fixings.

A closer look shows that he’d stripped the g’box level plug thread, but had in fact fitted a helicoil insert which he then damaged by fitting the stripped plug. The lesson - as Stu’s stated, better not touching the g’box level plug at all. Not necessary when servicing.

One of the oil filter cover screws is also stripped - I can nip it up lightly but it won’t take 6 Nm. That’ll need to be fixed. Most won’t have a torque wrench for that low range application so will just use judgement - easy to overtighten/strip if you’re ‘ham fisted’ (like my last mechanic).

So my new mantra is do it yourself - unless you know/trust the mechanic. Assumptions make an ass out of ……etc. etc..!

View attachment 118737

Few further observations.

- the O’ring that comes with the Bosch P9147 oil filter is significantly thicker than the original (RHS). It does not fit into the housing recess well. Have others used this o’ring?

View attachment 118739

All of the fixings during service can be easily torqued, less the sump plug - unless ya remove the exhausts. Not worth the hassle IMO. Rear sprocket cover removal gives (just) enough room to torque the upper oil pump banjo union. A great time to check serviceability/security of the drive sprocket.

View attachment 118740

Replacing the oil pump Banjo Union copper washers (or annealing them ‘correctly’) is essential. Ask me how I know!

May be of use to someone.
Click to expand...
Don’t use the thick o-ring.
 
TonyA said:
Don’t use the thick o-ring.
Click to expand...
Yep, not the correct size Tony - I’d be surprised if some haven’t tried though.

From the Alternate Parts List

Oil Change Demon


www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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*Although the Manual (5-6) states 67 mm x 2 mm.

Seems to be pretty widely available from various sources.
 
A bit of naff-naff and trivia but - can anybody clarify the oil banjo union washer size? A standard M14 copper washer is 1.50 mm in thickness. The below dimension from the repair manual is 1.22 mm thick - not standard dimensions.

An error? I guess most are just using standard M14 copper washers? Or crush washers?

Thanks.

Oil Change Demon
 

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