Oil Change Demon

TonyA said:
Yes , Cleaning the screen should be part of the oil change service . If you don't have the crimping tool or new bands , you can use quality hose clamps . I replace mine with hose clamps.
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Thanks Tony, as I thought. I’ve always warmed up bikes before draining the oil - not detailed in Richard’s manual or elsewhere for the 961 for some reason; thought maybe the proximity of hot exhaust to sump plug. Not possible if I have to remove the sump plate of course - it’s gonna dump pretty quickly then anyway.

I’ll buy a crimping tool I think, as the bands are in plain sight. You know how anal I am about cleanliness etc:rolleyes:

Appreciate the advice. Steve.
 
TonyA said:
Yes , Cleaning the screen should be part of the oil change service . If you don't have the crimping tool or new bands , you can use quality hose clamps . I replace mine with hose clamps.
Click to expand...
You can also use the single ear Oetiker clamps and a side cutter to tighten The clamp kits are cheap on Amazon if you want the right tool!
 
Stephen_Spencer said:
Thanks Tony, as I thought. I’ve always warmed up bikes before draining the oil - not detailed in Richard’s manual or elsewhere for the 961 for some reason; thought maybe the proximity of hot exhaust to sump plug. Not possible if I have to remove the sump plate of course - it’s gonna dump pretty quickly then anyway.

I’ll buy a crimping tool I think, as the bands are in plain sight. You know how anal I am about cleanliness etc:rolleyes:

Appreciate the advice. Steve.
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and replace the drain bolt with a magnetic one so you can get a socket on it
 
TonyA said:
Yes , that's possible. Then once the banjo is off , unscrew the filter screen body . Then reverse those steps to put back together.
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Did give that some thought, but assumed to clean it properly it would have to be removed. The mechanic seperated it on the last service - I noted that as he had scratched the cylinder in doing so.

I’ll give it go and strip the assembly whilst still attached to the hoses and post some pictures. 👍

Oil Change Demon
 
Stephen_Spencer said:
Did give that some thought, but assumed to clean it properly it would have to be removed. The mechanic seperated it on the last service - I noted that as he had scratched the cylinder in doing so.

I’ll give it go and strip the assembly whilst still attached to the hoses and post some pictures. 👍

View attachment 118646
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If you were in the states I would send you a new one. I have a dozen OEM New sitting in a box. I've also been pulling them off because they don't flow well, and have had bikes with oil starvation issues.
 
Stephen_Spencer said:
Did give that some thought, but assumed to clean it properly it would have to be removed. The mechanic seperated it on the last service - I noted that as he had scratched the cylinder in doing so.

I’ll give it go and strip the assembly whilst still attached to the hoses and post some pictures. 👍

View attachment 118646
Click to expand...
They just unscrew. They need disassembling to be able to clean properly.
 
City Garage said:
If you were in the states I would send you a new one. I have a dozen OEM New sitting in a box. I've also been pulling them off because they don't flow well, and have had bikes with oil starvation issues.
Click to expand...
These things are actually fuel filters aren’t they?

And if I recall correctly, they were installed to catch crap from inside the frame left from the manufacturing process? If so, then a bike that’s done some miles, and flushed out any such crap, is probably quite safe without one.

Alternatively, perhaps a high flow Pingle fuel filter would be a better choice ?
 
Fast Eddie said:
These things are actually fuel filters aren’t they?

And if I recall correctly, they were installed to catch crap from inside the frame left from the manufacturing process? If so, then a bike that’s done some miles, and flushed out any such crap, is probably quite safe without one.

Alternatively, perhaps a high flow Pingle fuel filter would be a better choice ?
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You make them sound so full of marvelessly bespoke quality! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Fast Eddie said:
They just unscrew. They need disassembling to be able to clean properly.
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Yep, that’s all good FE. The exam question has become whether it can be cleaned effectively without removing the clamp rings and hoses from the assembly.

- Remove the upper (oil pump) banjo Union - unscrew cylinder from assembly cap - clean oil screen; cap and cylinder remain attached to oil lines.

I’m gonna do it shortly so we’ll see.
 
Stephen_Spencer said:
It’s an in-line, one way fluid (oil) check valve with oil strainer, to the best of my knowledge.
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As @Fast Eddie said, it’s just a gauze filter. If you open it in situ, they are a PITA to seal again. And as he also said, once the bike has done a few oil changes and filter found clear, my personal opinion is that it’s no longer required. As Stu mentioned in the past, most of the detritus he has found in them was probably from the frame fabrication at the factory.

EDIT you can clearly see the filter in this thread…

Stu Bodycote

Post in thread 'Identify part'

These were fitted as part of the big tsb#00014 rework, which was subsequently carried on throughout production from around 2017 onwards. The inline filter is to prevent foreign debris from blocking up the tiny orifice of the check valve that was fitted to the oil pumps, in a bid to prevent wet sumping. Generally most the crap is cleared out at the first 500 mile service...and quite a bit you can pull out too. Engine build didnt have a proper parts washer, just brake cleaner sprays and cloths to clean everything prior to assembly......so you often find quite a lot of lint in the metal...
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There is a one way valve in the line to the oil cooler.
 
Last edited:
cliffa said:
As @Fast Eddie said, it’s just a gauze filter. If you open it in situ, they are a PITA to seal again. And as he also said, once the bike has done a few oil changes and filter found clear, my personal opinion is that it’s no longer required. As Stu mentioned in the past, most of the detritus he has found in them was probably from the frame fabrication at the factory.

EDIT you can clearly see the filter in this thread…

Stu Bodycote

Post in thread 'Identify part'

These were fitted as part of the big tsb#00014 rework, which was subsequently carried on throughout production from around 2017 onwards. The inline filter is to prevent foreign debris from blocking up the tiny orifice of the check valve that was fitted to the oil pumps, in a bid to prevent wet sumping. Generally most the crap is cleared out at the first 500 mile service...and quite a bit you can pull out too. Engine build didnt have a proper parts washer, just brake cleaner sprays and cloths to clean everything prior to assembly......so you often find quite a lot of lint in the metal...
  • Like
  • Wow

There is a one way valve in the line to the oil cooler.
Click to expand...
Thanks Cliff - that’s good news; makes it easier to clean. Or just remove as you guys advise.

Mistakenly thought it was part of the Crancase Breather kit - not the Oil in Airbox kit. Doh!

IMG_1770.jpeg
 

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