New here but not to Nortons

Hi all. This my first post, been lurking and digesting everything on this board for 4 months. I'm a newbe on working on bikes so I may have other some questions down the road. I purchased a 1970 Norton Roadster new when I was 18 years old. Had it for 2 years and my Ex-wife talked me into selling it. (Should have sold her instead). Bought it March 30 1970. The bike came with a 2 year warranty so I never had to do anything not even changing the oil. Fast foreword 45 years later I found a nearly pristine 1970 Roadster that I have been restoring back to stock condition. Someone put a lot of money in it before me and left me to do the do the finish work. First thing did was put a RGM extra length kicker on it. Got it direct from them for $166.00 USD. Asked them to ship it UPS instead of the mail and saved about $30.00. The motor was rebuilt about 12 years ago and has been stored in a picked state until I bought it. Has about 700 miles on the new engine. I have a shop manual and parts list, so between this forum and the books I've learned a lot about Nortons. When I bought it I noticed the clutch dragging a bit but figuired it was 18F degrees at the time and didn't think too much of it. Turns out the stator insulation fell all apart and ruined the clutches so I got my first lesson on clutches. I replaced the clutch pack and stator, fiddled with the adjustment and now it shifts just like my first Norton. I manged to find the engine builder and asked about what He did to it as it has so much compression that it was hard to kick over. ( have a friend that had a Norton a few years ago, weights 250 pounds and he couldn't believe the compression). Also noticed it didn't have the correct camshaft in it. The builder couldn't remember what cam he used but he remembered it had a 3 in it. So I think it may be a 3S or a PW3. Anyway it idles like a race car. I was told the valve clearance was .011 but am not sure. So my one and only question I have now is that correct? I afraid to change the setting without some advice.
Sure is nice to have a Norton again. I still think Nortons are the most fun to ride. I had a Triumph Tiger, but it wasn't a Norton

Marc

Welcome to the forum, you will find this site to be the best out there, Also has the best people. Everything you ever need to know and then some. Great site!

Valve clearances are .006" intake and .008 exhaust unless it's a hotted-up race motor in which case it's .008" intake and .010" exhaust. .011" is a bit loose for anything.

not true. some such as a 4s is .016 . he needs to know what he has.

Danno said:

Valve clearances are .006" intake and .008 exhaust unless it's a hotted-up race motor in which case it's .008" intake and .010" exhaust. .011" is a bit loose for anything.

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I checked the valve lash and it is .008 intake and .012 exhaust as it sits now. I'm afraid to close the gap anymore. Maybe if I sacrifice my degree wheel and mount it on the rotor I can come up with the duration and lift and that may help Identify the cam? Engine really is not noisy when warm but has a clatter when first started. Took it for a spin today in between T-storms and boy the clutch feels great. Next step is to order a Vernhill clutch cable.

Marcb said:

I checked the valve lash and it is .008 intake and .012 exhaust as it sits now. I'm afraid to close the gap anymore. Maybe if I sacrifice my degree wheel and mount it on the rotor I can come up with the duration and lift and that may help Identify the cam? Engine really is not noisy when warm but has a clatter when first started. Took it for a spin today in between T-storms and boy the clutch feels great. Next step is to order a Vernhill clutch cable.

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As said it depends on how aggressive the cam. Example Norris grind #N850D spec sheet show intake and exhaust cold clearance .015". Intake lift at the valve is .438 and exhaust .488.

I reset the exhaust to .010 and intake to .08 and then took it for a hard ride and checked the lash while the engine is hot and came up with .002 on both intake and exhaust. Is that about right? I know from working on aircraft engines that a .002 gap is right for a hot engine.

Marcb said:

I reset the exhaust to .010 and intake to .08 and then took it for a hard ride and checked the lash while the engine is hot and came up with .002 on both intake and exhaust. Is that about right? I know from working on aircraft engines that a .002 gap is right for a hot engine.

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A lot of this depends on how loud they clatter. Some people will open them up, then close them down till the don't clatter any more then needed.

Your numbers are not out of line as long as you are comfortable with the sound.

The PW3 cam requires 11 thou gap for both inlet and exhaust gap.

3S is .016 . HOT .

Ran a 2S at that .

Clatter could be the thackery washers- but dubtfull . use a stethoscope to identiy source .
Heard robbie Deands race bike clatter like a can of ball bearings after a hard hot race . :shock:
saouned knackered .

Incedently old 55 T100R clearance is 10 thou . Theyll run at 2 & 4 , but long distance go gutless .
Wonder it didnt burn the valves. Fuel may affect Valve Temp , thus ' stretch ' and clearances , too .

hobits sump oil throwing onto cam trick , might be of some relevance .

I removed the stator and rotor and modified my degree wheel to fit on the shaft. The cam has a 292 degree duration at 50 thou. Lift on the intake is 419 thous and the exhaust is 449 approx at the valves, (Had a hard time measuring the lift with my dial indicator so the lift my not be too accurate). It doesn't really clatter upon starting so I think I'll stick with .08 intake and .10 exhaust as after it warms up it's purrs like a kitten .
On another subject I checked the gear oil level and it is low. I'm thinking of changing the oil and replacing it with Red Line synthetic oil. Has anyone tried this, or is this a no no?

I love the Red Line Gear Oil because when you open the inspection cap and look in you see it's clinging to everything. Coating every part.

I swear by Red Line oil in all my vehicles. Another product I use in all my vehicles that don't have roller cams is a product called Cam Guard. It was intended for use in airplanes but now they have a product for automobiles and other vehicles. Here's a link for it. http://www.aslcamguard.com/ You can get it through Amazon or at any good aviation store. This product is amazing. It provides anti-scuffing for the camshafts, pistons, cleans out all the corrosion and prevents it. You know how aluminum gets that yellow residue all over the castings? Well after using Cam Guard for a while the engine will look brand new inside. It also displaces water and prevents corrosion. It's a must have for bikes not driven often. I use 2 oz per tank of oil. After all an air cooled bike engine is just like an airplane engine. It's runs about $24 USD but one bottle will last a long time.