Seems a lot on here have different ways of doing thing on their Norton's

ashman

ashman

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I have owned my Norton 74 850 since buying it new in 1976, it has gone through a lot of changes in the 48+ years I have owned it and the biggest was converting it to the 1957 Wideline Featherbed frame in 1980/82, it has also had a few great upgrade too it in the last 15 years, it has had 3 rebuilds but the last one was just to replace the crank cases as my original cases had hair line fractures around the main crank seal and a broken piece where the front centre stud screwed in the crank case, I am on my first rebore done back in 82, am still running my original vales in the head but the guides are now on my 3rd set and new springs and the head has been shaved.
Most of my Norton has been an everyday rider except for the conversion to the Featherbed and time it was off the road while chasing up a good set of crank cases when money was tight, my conversion to the Featherbed frame back in 1980 was the first time I rebuilt any motorcycles and I was in my early 20s, yes I learned to do all my servicing from riding dirt bikes and my road bikes as I couldn't afford to pay someone else and its the best way too learn about our own bikes.
Every bike I have owned the first thing I do is buy a good bible (workshop manual) and I have 3 for my Norton, I wasn't mechanical minded when I first did the conversion to the Featherbed but did everything by the bible, I built the Featherbed before the internet but taking advice from people who knew what I was planning on doing with the conversion and all major machining was done outside, but before I finish the project I got a new job at a Tec College (TAFE) in early 82 and had access to great tradesmen and teachers and full access to machines, and saved me a lot of money getting things done and 2 motorcycle teachers one was an old school British bike rider and the other has worked for a Norton race team back in NZ and I also became a T/A to the maintenance fitters workshop where I learned a lot from a very good tradesman.
My point to this thread is we all do things differently when working on our Nortons, I learned to do things the way the bible says but I have built a few Norton's, my own and a few others as well for mates and a few paid rebuilds, I have learned a lot just building my own Norton and these days very rare I have to look in the manual, I also have many upgrades no one else has as well I built mine in a way that has made things simple, with my Featherbed and motor I can remove the motor, GB, primary and all bottom engine mounts out of the frame all together and can take less than 30 minutes to do so just removing the head stay and carbs everything else stays bolted together, with my Joe Hunt magneto hanging off the cam on the timing side cover I have all my timing marks scribed on the inside of the points housing and all I do to work on the magneto is set my timing on the marks and can pull the magneto off and work on the bench, so far haven't needed to do so in the 14+ years its been fitted, but if I do it simple to put back on and no need to rest the timing as it all put back on the marks.
I haven't had the need to go inside my timing cover as I am running an auto timing chain adjuster which I installed over 35 years ago and only pull the cover off when doing major work on my motor and the timing chain was replace last time it was off when I replaced the crank cases and installed the JH.
My motor isn't stock and has been built for the Featherbed frame with a balanced crank for hard mount engine in frame, 2S cam grind, head has been machined and ported and I run an open exhaust system with very little baffles and as I say I am still running the original valves and my rockers have never been removed, gearbox has only been rebuilt once when the layshaft bearing blew in 1979 and only replaced the kickstart paw 4 times and the last time it was replace the kick start gear was replace, why the paw kept wearing out and a new kickstart shaft, other than that the GB is still very much original.
I went down the road to belt drive primary but after 3 or more years with problems with belt not running true the last year I have gone back to chain primary, I am still running the original clutch plates that came with my Norton but the clutch centre was replace about 13 years ago as well the pressure plate, I have never had GB oil migrate to the primary as I never over fill my GB and GB oil is measured by what the bible recommends.

As I have said people do thing differently some put their pistons on the rods when putting the barrel on, as I do, some put the pistons in the barrels first and do it differently to how the manual says to do it, some remover the rockers to put the head on, I do it with the rockers in and it seems some have troubles putting the pushrods in place on the lifters, I have always done it the way the book said to do it, I hold the pushrod in-between my fingers before dropping them down, but then most times my motors are on the bench mounted on a engine stand, but have done a head or 2 while in the bike, just do it as the book said, some use rubber bands to hold the push rods, but I find the in between the fingers work well.
We all have our own ways of doing things and after 48+ years of doing things by the bible (book) but I have also built my Norton for do things easy, I have a few secrets in how I do things but one thing most important is to have a well set up workshop to make things easy to work on and have every tool you need to do any work on our Norton's, WW tools very important I have ring, open enders and sockets to fit everything on my bike as well the right pullies special home made tools, good workbench and a few big vices also come in handy and to make my life easier a bike lift table and scissor jack.

So what things do we do to help when working on your Norton and don't matter if you think something doesn't look right or seems right but if it helps, we all have our own tricks and we all do thing differently to others, one of the reasons we have a great Norton Forum to help when needed to keep out bikes on the road, also some may think I know everything, but I don't but what I do know is I know everything about my own Norton and I have helped a lot of friends who have owned Norton's and things do wear and tear, things do break and I have had my share over the 48+ years and it has only been 2 broken chains and one EI that stopped me from getting home in all them years and one bad crash, the bike was good but I wasn't lol.
Who knows our little tricks might help new owners and can learn a lot from us old school owners who have been working on our Norton's for so long.
And I have never, never used those blue disposable gloves to work on my bikes, seem so many are gone soft, sorry but I am old school in everything I do and I don't wear gloves when out riding except woollie fingerless gloves when cold, just clocked over 50 years of owning and riding motorcycles.

So lets hear what little or big tricks we have for keeping our Norton's on the road.

Ashley
 
ashman said:
I have owned my Norton 74 850 since buying it new in 1976, it has gone through a lot of changes in the 48+ years I have owned it and the biggest was converting it to the 1957 Wideline Featherbed frame in 1980/82, it has also had a few great upgrade too it in the last 15 years, it has had 3 rebuilds but the last one was just to replace the crank cases as my original cases had hair line fractures around the main crank seal and a broken piece where the front centre stud screwed in the crank case, I am on my first rebore done back in 82, am still running my original vales in the head but the guides are now on my 3rd set and new springs and the head has been shaved.
Most of my Norton has been an everyday rider except for the conversion to the Featherbed and time it was off the road while chasing up a good set of crank cases when money was tight, my conversion to the Featherbed frame back in 1980 was the first time I rebuilt any motorcycles and I was in my early 20s, yes I learned to do all my servicing from riding dirt bikes and my road bikes as I couldn't afford to pay someone else and its the best way too learn about our own bikes.
Every bike I have owned the first thing I do is buy a good bible (workshop manual) and I have 3 for my Norton, I wasn't mechanical minded when I first did the conversion to the Featherbed but did everything by the bible, I built the Featherbed before the internet but taking advice from people who knew what I was planning on doing with the conversion and all major machining was done outside, but before I finish the project I got a new job at a Tec College (TAFE) in early 82 and had access to great tradesmen and teachers and full access to machines, and saved me a lot of money getting things done and 2 motorcycle teachers one was an old school British bike rider and the other has worked for a Norton race team back in NZ and I also became a T/A to the maintenance fitters workshop where I learned a lot from a very good tradesman.
My point to this thread is we all do things differently when working on our Nortons, I learned to do things the way the bible says but I have built a few Norton's, my own and a few others as well for mates and a few paid rebuilds, I have learned a lot just building my own Norton and these days very rare I have to look in the manual, I also have many upgrades no one else has as well I built mine in a way that has made things simple, with my Featherbed and motor I can remove the motor, GB, primary and all bottom engine mounts out of the frame all together and can take less than 30 minutes to do so just removing the head stay and carbs everything else stays bolted together, with my Joe Hunt magneto hanging off the cam on the timing side cover I have all my timing marks scribed on the inside of the points housing and all I do to work on the magneto is set my timing on the marks and can pull the magneto off and work on the bench, so far haven't needed to do so in the 14+ years its been fitted, but if I do it simple to put back on and no need to rest the timing as it all put back on the marks.
I haven't had the need to go inside my timing cover as I am running an auto timing chain adjuster which I installed over 35 years ago and only pull the cover off when doing major work on my motor and the timing chain was replace last time it was off when I replaced the crank cases and installed the JH.
My motor isn't stock and has been built for the Featherbed frame with a balanced crank for hard mount engine in frame, 2S cam grind, head has been machined and ported and I run an open exhaust system with very little baffles and as I say I am still running the original valves and my rockers have never been removed, gearbox has only been rebuilt once when the layshaft bearing blew in 1979 and only replaced the kickstart paw 4 times and the last time it was replace the kick start gear was replace, why the paw kept wearing out and a new kickstart shaft, other than that the GB is still very much original.
I went down the road to belt drive primary but after 3 or more years with problems with belt not running true the last year I have gone back to chain primary, I am still running the original clutch plates that came with my Norton but the clutch centre was replace about 13 years ago as well the pressure plate, I have never had GB oil migrate to the primary as I never over fill my GB and GB oil is measured by what the bible recommends.

As I have said people do thing differently some put their pistons on the rods when putting the barrel on, as I do, some put the pistons in the barrels first and do it differently to how the manual says to do it, some remover the rockers to put the head on, I do it with the rockers in and it seems some have troubles putting the pushrods in place on the lifters, I have always done it the way the book said to do it, I hold the pushrod in-between my fingers before dropping them down, but then most times my motors are on the bench mounted on a engine stand, but have done a head or 2 while in the bike, just do it as the book said, some use rubber bands to hold the push rods, but I find the in between the fingers work well.
We all have our own ways of doing things and after 48+ years of doing things by the bible (book) but I have also built my Norton for do things easy, I have a few secrets in how I do things but one thing most important is to have a well set up workshop to make things easy to work on and have every tool you need to do any work on our Norton's, WW tools very important I have ring, open enders and sockets to fit everything on my bike as well the right pullies special home made tools, good workbench and a few big vices also come in handy and to make my life easier a bike lift table and scissor jack.

So what things do we do to help when working on your Norton and don't matter if you think something doesn't look right or seems right but if it helps, we all have our own tricks and we all do thing differently to others, one of the reasons we have a great Norton Forum to help when needed to keep out bikes on the road, also some may think I know everything, but I don't but what I do know is I know everything about my own Norton and I have helped a lot of friends who have owned Norton's and things do wear and tear, things do break and I have had my share over the 48+ years and it has only been 2 broken chains and one EI that stopped me from getting home in all them years and one bad crash, the bike was good but I wasn't lol.
Who knows our little tricks might help new owners and can learn a lot from us old school owners who have been working on our Norton's for so long.
And I have never, never used those blue disposable gloves to work on my bikes, seem so many are gone soft, sorry but I am old school in everything I do and I don't wear gloves when out riding except woollie fingerless gloves when cold, just clocked over 50 years of owning and riding motorcycles.

So lets hear what little or big tricks we have for keeping our Norton's on the road.

Ashley
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Holy shit! Tolstoy's got nuthin' on you Ash!
 
I think I have a Commando manual somewhere, And I have Paul Dunstal's tuning notes. I have probably read them and I have certainly read Tuning For Speed, When I built my Seeley850, I bought a rolling chassis, a gearbox and a motor for about $2000 all-up. I made a set of engine plates, and a cover for the primary drive. The whole thing was common sense - not difficult. Doing the motor was easy - not much needs to be done to a Commando motor. When I got around to racing the bike was when it got developed. I think I have built 6 bikes with different motors in different frames, When I need machining done, I usually farm it out to people who have fingers.
When I build a bike, I usually plan it in my head before I start. I start with the gearbox and the front brake - they are the most important items of a race bike. If you have got those, a frame and a fast enough motor are not difficult.

I suggest many people create their own hurdles - mindset and patience are everything. There is nothing about a British motorcycle which can defeat you. In the worst case, a whole motorcycle can be remanufactured by a back-yarder.

 
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acotrel said:
I think I have a Commando manual somewhere, And I have Paul Dunstal's tuning notes. I have probably read them and I have certainly read Tuning For Speed, When I built my Seeley850, I bought a rolling chassis, a gearbox and a motor for about $2000 all-up. I made a set of engine plates, and a cover for the primary drive. The whole thing was common sense - not difficult. Doing the motor was easy - not much needs to be done to a Commando motor. When I got around to racing the bike was when it got developed. I think I have built 6 bikes with different motors in different frames, When I need machining done, I usually farm it out to people who have fingers.
When I build a bike, I usually plan it in my head before I start. I start with the gearbox and the front brake - they are the most important items of a race bike. If you have got those, a frame and a fast enough motor are not difficult.

I suggest many people create their own hurdles - mindset and patience are everything. There is nothing about a British motorcycle which can defeat you. In the worst case, a whole motorcycle can be remanufactured by a back-yarder.
Click to expand...
One of my friends wanted an Anzani-JAP replica record-braking bike, so he simply made one. He carved the ports in the cylinder heads by hand. The crank cases are the same as the ones in the next bike he built - a four-valve Indian V-twin

 
Let the good times roll and have a little fun, because when you're dead you're done.

I have nothing to say that is really worth a butterfly fart. I'm too busy doing stuff I've been told won't work. :)
 
Schwany said:
Let the good times roll and have a little fun, because when you're dead you're done.

I have nothing to say that is really worth a butterfly fart. I'm too busy doing stuff I've been told won't work. :)
Click to expand...
It is really strange the way we all believe bullshit. Nobody knows what will work, until we try to do something. If you watch a road race, most guys do the same thing in corners. However there are alternatives. John Kocinsky was different with the RVF 750 Honda superbike. He had the ability to power through corners. It must have been the bike, because what he did was normally not possible. That bike was taken out of competition by Honda, but each time it reappeared,it won. There used to be a couple of videos of Kocinsky racing. He would hang back, then make up as huge amount of ground.
What happens in theory can be very different to what happens in practice. With my Seeley 850, I made a change on spec. without knowing what it would do. It took me a few races to find out how to use the bike effectively with it's new differences.
It normally costs about $6000 to buy a 6 speed close ratio gearbox. Would you buy one without knowing what the effect would be ? - I bought one because I know what the effect will be - up to a point.
I still have not raced with that box, and I do not know if I ever will. I should do it, simply to prove the bike. To me, my bike is just another interesting project - it is nice to achieve. If I ever race again, I will have to make certain I am taking-beta blockers. For me, adrenalin is dangerous.
 
Al I put this thread up for making things or doing things that make it easier to work on our bikes and any little tricks we do that not normally use to put things together that saves time, effort and any little tricks we have up our sleeves in the workshop, it's not about racing or RVF 750 Honda race bikes but working on our old Nortons.
Maybe it was a stupid idea that came into my head at the time, I should have known better lol.
 
I have had very few "stock" Nortons in my collection...

Leo Goff Combat engine, Dunstall bodywork, Norvil front brake, ARD solid state mini-magneto, Sparx 3-phase reg/rect, Thomaselli clip-ons, Clubman rearsets...
122-72NOR.JPG


Dreer monoshock prototype with too much stuff to list, pretty obvious... ZX6 front end, I've also fitted up TL1000, & ZX9, among others.
This was Kenny Dreer's design rising rate monoshock linkage, I designed two others that were simpler and just as effective. The frame tabs for the shock top mount are invisible and unbelievably easy to fit up. It can all be returned to stock (but won't be, in my lifetime).

130-NORVR.JPG


Alloy tank monoshock 850 with more Dreer stuff and long list of mods... ZX9 front end. Monoshock swingarm made from (2) Commando swingarms and a few bits of steel. UJM rear brake master cylinder, too easy. Confederate front discs, they were phasing out, so I got 'em cheap.

136-74NOR.JPG


PR replica with Combat engine and upswept pipes

138-72NOR.JPG


Still more Dreer stuff, Yamaha XS650 front end, Honda CD750 rear wheel & brake, box section swingarm w/ "big bearing" swingarm spindle (Dreer design), clip-ons & rearsets, lots more stuff. I used an old dirt bike rear brake torque arm from the days when they wanted parallel range of motion. I had that on my shelves for 30 years.

151-74880.JPG


Easy to keep it simple - Dunstall mufflers, simple rearsets. Just "A Touch of the Grape"

157-72NOR.JPG


There are AT LEAST 87,942 different ways to fix up a Commando, probably a LOT more...
 
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I have absorbed just about every technique I've ever heard or read about to assemble/disassemble my commando, just like most people here. I know just about every stupid mistake you could ever make assembling a commando too, since I've made them all.

My favorite techniques.....

Carb- Just take the dam air filter off if you are going to inspect your carbs!!! For 2 reasons -

One - you need to stick your finger in to feel the jet needle when you lift and lower the throttle so you know it's lined up correctly, and going down into the jet.... If you don't take it off then how do you check that your parts are in alignment??

Two - If your bike suddenly won't start you need to see if the problem is spark or fuel. I have a small squeeze bottle with an angled straw on top with fuel in it. I give a squirt in each carb with the slides up, then give a kick. If the bike roars to life for a few seconds, I've proved it's a fuel delivery issue and I go in that direction to diagnose the issue. If it won't fire up at all, I assume it's electrical/ignition related and I go in that direction. That stupid little squirt bottle gets me going in the right direction to troubleshoot any kind of internal combustion engine very quickly. I used it on my buddy's fork lift and eventually found that his internal fuel tank's fuel pump was old, and clogged up... Some fresh fuel laced with more fuel system cleaner than you should ever put in any engine brought that old fork lift back to life...

Electrical dead shorts...

If you have a dead short that blows your fuse, and every time you put a new fuse in to find the short it blows the new fuse, then I put the multimeter in place of the battery terminals and turn the sellector to continuity, where the meter makes a steady tone when the circuit is connected. then I disconnect components and trace all the wiring harness until I get the tone to shut off or stutter and that usually narrows the search down to a certain component, bad switch, or skinned wire...

Sorry, I didn't vere off topic and talk about something else, Ash 🤣
 
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marshg246 said:
I've heard that you Australians like to "have at" each other for the fun of it - starting to believe it's true :D
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I am sure Al is a nice bloke, but for someone who hasn't rode or owned a road going bike for 50 odd years and it's been so long since he has raced his Norton Seeley, this thread I started is more about the workshop and helpful hints for working on our beloved Nortons.
And yes Greg us Aussies do like to put sh it on each other, we like a good sh it stir, but in a good way and if our friends are Kiwi's we tends to sh it stir even more, I have a few good Kiwi mates and can be quite funny when we are all together when beers are involved, but some people just rattle on and on and I probably do the same lol.
We are a relaxed mob down under and lots of overseas people just don't understand our ways and humor, we put sh it on poms and yanks well that another story, but all good fun and if we upset anyone who just don't understand us, then it's worked.
Mateship in Australia is very important to our ways.

Paul your bikes look great, by the way how's the new place going and o0norton0o some good ideas there and air filters are always off when working on Amal carbs, I find using fingers to guide the needles down the jets work a treat, I even using my fingers to feel when the slides are just moving and feel if both are lifting the same, easy to feel if one is lifting before the other, same when tunning I use my hands at the back of the exhaust to feel which side is running more than the other and our ears are also good tools.

Ashley
 
So, most think my best trick is crazy!

These days I find one of the most hated Norton jobs easy - removing/installing the carbs. I absolutely remove them to change the air cleaner (leave it all in place while removing the carbs). I struggled long and hard with sawed off Allen wrenches and then started buying ball end Allens until I had the right combination. My final pair is one with a longer than normal long end and a very short, short end - both ball end. Then I have a normal one both ends ball. Between them I can always crack the screw loose and once loose I can use the longer ends to spin the first one out.

It might be hard the very first time but once the carbs are off, I ensure that the screws go in easily with t fingertips only. That way when putting them on. The timing side one is installed completely, the drive side outer screw is barely "nipped up" and the carb is wiggled until I can turn the inner one with fingertips. Once I can do that, I snug the outer, so the carb is not rubbing on the inner screw, screw it all the way with fingertips, and finally tighten.

It takes way longer to get the tank off than the carbs.

I find it difficult to fully mechanically sync the carbs on a Norton on the bike, so I remove them, stick an old handlebar in my vice. Put the throttle on it and sync them on the bench where everything is easy to see. Since I don't have chokes, it takes less than 5 minutes when the tank is off for the carbs to be on the bench being synced.
 
Regarding the carb removal I have found the Chapman mini socket set to be invaluable. I bought my first set of Allen drivers with the ratchet, modified a ball end driver to fit their mini ratchet and sent them a note suggesting they sell ball end sockets. I immediately received a note saying they had just added ball end Allen drivers to their product line, so I bought the ones I needed. Although it still requires some finagling it is definitely better with the mini ratchet. Being a retired toolmaker/manufacturing engineer part of my pleasure with motorcycles, cars or any home challenges is designing and building tools to make my life easier.

chapmanmfg.com

#CM-13 Famous Mini 1/4" Drive Ratchet | Chapman MFG

Our famous CM-13 stainless steel mini ratchet provides about 200 in lbs of torque with a 20 tooth gear and an 18 degree working arc. Customers tell us that this "is the ratchet used to feed lube through a Lyman lube and sizer" Made, hand assembled & inspected in Durham, CT from USA materials.
chapmanmfg.com chapmanmfg.com
 
grandpaul said:
I have had very few "stock" Nortons in my collection...

Leo Goff Combat engine, Dunstall bodywork, Norvil front brake, ARD solid state mini-magneto, Sparx 3-phase reg/rect, Thomaselli clip-ons, Clubman rearsets...
View attachment 114005

Dreer monoshock prototype with too much stuff to list, pretty obvious... ZX6 front end, I've also fitted up TL1000, & ZX9, among others.
This was Kenny Dreer's design rising rate monoshock linkage, I designed two others that were simpler and just as effective. The frame tabs for the shock top mount are invisible and unbelievably easy to fit up. It can all be returned to stock (but won't be, in my lifetime).

View attachment 114006

Alloy tank monoshock 850 with more Dreer stuff and long list of mods... ZX9 front end. Monoshock swingarm made from (2) Commando swingarms and a few bits of steel. UJM rear brake master cylinder, too easy. Confederate front discs, they were phasing out, so I got 'em cheap.

View attachment 114007

PR replica with Combat engine and upswept pipes

View attachment 114008

Still more Dreer stuff, Yamaha XS650 front end, Honda CD750 rear wheel & brake, box section swingarm w/ "big bearing" swingarm spindle (Dreer design), clip-ons & rearsets, lots more stuff. I used an old dirt bike rear brake torque arm from the days when they wanted parallel range of motion. I had that on my shelves for 30 years.

View attachment 114009

Easy to keep it simple - Dunstall mufflers, simple rearsets. Just "A Touch of the Grape"

View attachment 114010

There are AT LEAST 87,942 different ways to fix up a Commando, probably a LOT more...
Click to expand...
I just read an article about your Leo Goff rebuild from some magazine on Facebook. Tried to copy it to post here but my dumb ass couldn’t figure out how to do it! Great work.
 
drp said:
Regarding the carb removal I have found the Chapman mini socket set to be invaluable. I bought my first set of Allen drivers with the ratchet, modified a ball end driver to fit their mini ratchet and sent them a note suggesting they sell ball end sockets. I immediately received a note saying they had just added ball end Allen drivers to their product line, so I bought the ones I needed. Although it still requires some finagling it is definitely better with the mini ratchet. Being a retired toolmaker/manufacturing engineer part of my pleasure with motorcycles, cars or any home challenges is designing and building tools to make my life easier.

chapmanmfg.com

#CM-13 Famous Mini 1/4" Drive Ratchet | Chapman MFG

Our famous CM-13 stainless steel mini ratchet provides about 200 in lbs of torque with a 20 tooth gear and an 18 degree working arc. Customers tell us that this "is the ratchet used to feed lube through a Lyman lube and sizer" Made, hand assembled & inspected in Durham, CT from USA materials.
chapmanmfg.com chapmanmfg.com
Click to expand...
My best trick regarding carb removal is a long Allen key and a 5.5mm spanner - makes removing the carbs a profanity-free 2 min operation :cool:.
The long key protrudes past the carbs, the 5.5mm spanner fits nicely on the key and allows easy loosening & tightening of the screws.
 
I have never had any problems removing the carbs off my Norton just using the original short allen key that came in the tool kit, only the first inside allen is the hardest to get but not really, so many have troubles removing them, but carb removal is easier with a Featherbed frame the top frame rails are on the outside.
Seems a lot on here have different ways of doing thing on their Norton's
 
ashman said:
I have never had any problems removing the carbs off my Norton just using the original short allen key that came in the tool kit, only the first inside allen is the hardest to get but not really, so many have troubles removing them, but carb removal is easier with a Featherbed frame the top frame rails are on the outside.
View attachment 114019
Click to expand...
Of course you have no trouble - there's nothing in your way. Even my XX-Large, Arthritic hands would find it easy on your bike with a sawed of Allen! And then, Childsplay with a short-end ball-end Allen. Still, I bet I get my carbs off in about the time it takes to get your air filter off - my standard hamcan has no need to come off at all and neither do the carb connector hoses.

You asked a question. I answered. Others added to it. You poo-poo'ed us all.

Ashley, not all people are built the same. Not all people have the same medical issues. Most do not have non-standard bikes. Most in the Commando forum are discussing Commandos.

And dare I say, a Commando is not an engine - it's more the frame and especially the isolastics than the Atlas engine (OK, Commando engine but no big difference) that belongs in you frame! Think about the things you tell acotrel here the next time you bring up your bike in the Commando Forum - you're doing basically the same thing as him.
 
All good Greg but at least I ride my Commando/Featherbed and I still do work on 2 mates Commandos when they have problems, not all owner are good with tools or hands on.
 
We are all getting older and change is inevitable. I ride a lot less now than I did 5 years ago. I was in agony after my last dirt biking adventure on the Maico.
I think that type of riding is over for me.
The long distance touring might be coming to an end as well.
I can envisage a time in the near future where the reminiscing about riding will exceed the actual riding.
I rode a lot every year up until age 65, then covid shut us all down. Going back out there at 69 is quite different.
I would say the thrill is gone. It has been replaced by pain!
At Al's age, if I am still here, I'm not sure I'll be riding at all.

Glen
 
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