Hi, new to Commandos but now have two!

I'd been playing with the timing on my B44
And I made the error of giving it a handful of throttle whilst kicking it
The bloody thing launched me
The bottom of my foot was bruised black with mouve on both sides of my foot
I hobbled for days with that one
 
Thank you all for your thoughts. I also found Boyer Mk3 electronic ignition strapped to the frame under the tank. I replaced the missing bolt on the head steady which unfortunately meant removing the entire unit and chasing the threads.
I cleaned the mufflers with a light steel wool and a buffing wheel. They came out very nice.
I pulled the front master cylinder off the bike and sourced one at my local bike store. I rebuild the brake system later.
The carb rebuild kit is ordered and on its way. The current carb flooded out the overflow lines the moment I put fresh gas in and turned the peacocks on. Stuck float bowl I’m sure plus the jets and passage ways will need to be cleaned/replaced.
The other Commando is all in boxes except for the frame and tin. I’ll post pictures of it one day but for now I’m cleaning this bike up to ride.
 
baz said:
I'd been playing with the timing on my B44
And I made the error of giving it a handful of throttle whilst kicking it
The bloody thing launched me
The bottom of my foot was bruised black with mouve on both sides of my foot
I hobbled for days with that one
Click to expand...
 
Here is a picture of my 1969 Dad’s Victor Special on the stand. It’s pretty much been renewed and dialed in. Just finishing the wiring but having trouble with the ignition. I switched to a Boyer when I re-wired the bike but I’m not getting a spark. It’s on the sideline for a bit until the Commando is running. Then back to it.
 
Last edited:
baz said:
I'd been playing with the timing on my B44
And I made the error of giving it a handful of throttle whilst kicking it
The bloody thing launched me
The bottom of my foot was bruised black with mouve on both sides of my foot
I hobbled for days with that one
Click to expand...
I've found the best way to start BSA big singles is with an adjustable throttle stop that you can turn in about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle from warm idle setting, and then set the piston just where the exhaust valve has started to open. My B44 with GP cam insists on a tickle and is less picky about the throttle stop but my B50 couldn't care less whether you tickle it or not, but if that throttle stop isn't right, it simple won't start.
 
  • Thumbs Up
Reactions: baz
Shackkat said:
Thank you all for your thoughts. I also found Boyer Mk3 electronic ignition strapped to the frame under the tank. I replaced the missing bolt on the head steady which unfortunately meant removing the entire unit and chasing the threads.
I cleaned the mufflers with a light steel wool and a buffing wheel. They came out very nice.
I pulled the front master cylinder off the bike and sourced one at my local bike store. I rebuild the brake system later.
The carb rebuild kit is ordered and on its way. The current carb flooded out the overflow lines the moment I put fresh gas in and turned the peacocks on. Stuck float bowl I’m sure plus the jets and passage ways will need to be cleaned/replaced.
The other Commando is all in boxes except for the frame and tin. I’ll post pictures of it one day but for now I’m cleaning this bike up to ride.
Click to expand...
Shackkat,
I would ditch that Boyer Mk3 or relegate it to the kickstart parts bike that you have. A lot of E start guys cursed them as they had a tendency to break expensive electric start components in the primary case if the voltage isn't right. The Boyer Mk4 works at lower voltages but if you have the money for a Tri-spark then go that route for E.I.
That's My Nickle in.
Cheers,
Tom
 
  • Thumbs Up
Reactions: baz
CanukNortonNut said:
Shackkat,
I would ditch that Boyer Mk3 or relegate it to the kickstart parts bike that you have. A lot of E start guys cursed them as they had a tendency to break expensive electric start components in the primary case if the voltage isn't right. The Boyer Mk4 works at lower voltages but if you have the money for a Tri-spark then go that route for E.I.
That's My Nickle in.
Cheers,
Tom
Click to expand...
My 76 850 has fitted the Boyer MK 1V . I'm so confident of it , using a good battery , DD Starter and thicker cables , that I removed the heavy Kicker forever . This Boyer has never protested a low Amp situation . Sprag is good in the CNW core sprocket without ever engaging the anti-backfire device . The bike came with an early model Trispark fitted which left me stranded . Trispark has improved their product since then . One thing that perturbs me is electronics in the points cavity . Vibration combined with heat are considerations . Enjoy .
 
Super interesting info on the MK3 unit. Thank you for the information on the MKIV and battery. Reliability is very important to me.
I noticed overall the factory harness is bulky and very typical of an overthought 1970’s style. I’m tempted to tear it down and pair it back. The previous owner already removed the turn indicators and bobbed the wires closely to the harness. I might rewrite the bike and change the ignition.
 
Shackkat said:
Super interesting info on the MK3 unit. Thank you for the information on the MKIV and battery. Reliability is very important to me.
I noticed overall the factory harness is bulky and very typical of an overthought 1970’s style. I’m tempted to tear it down and pair it back. The previous owner already removed the turn indicators and bobbed the wires closely to the harness. I might rewrite the bike and change the ignition.
Click to expand...
Retain the original MK 111 harness and upgrade all the connectors using Dielectric grease on them . Or strip it all off and start again from scratch to accommodate all the new goodie$ . $ $ $ .
 
Dan,
Another option for E.I.'s is the Pazon Sure-Fire which works very well with stock 6 volt coils...(if your battery was below 12 volts). Pazon sorted the Ignition Module to still operate at lower Voltage rates before Boyer finally got off there butt and updated to the Mk4.
It is very similar to a Mk4 Boyer, maybe a little nicer in appearance. The Trigger Assembly is a little nicer made, and the Ignition Module is slightly more compact. They are about $10-15 more expensive than the Boyer Mk4. At least here in Canada. You strobe the timing at 4000 RPM instead of 5000 for the Boyer. I have this unit and have had no issues for over +50,000 miles.
They also carry a variety of E.I.'s so you can check them out. I have used and installed both but my choice is the Pazon Sure-Fire IMHO, and both would be safe for your e-start.
As Stated above in post #28 Electronics don't like a lot of heat under the Points cover. but others can give their experience with their choice of E.I.'s. YMMV.

Pazon Ignitions Limited

Overview of Digital & Analogue Ignition Systems. Classic bike & car electronic ignitions for road & racing.
www.pazon.com

Cheers,
Tom
 
Another option for E.I.'s is the Pazon Sure-Fire which works very well with stock 6 volt coils.

I have a Pazon Altair in my Mk3 which works down to 6 volts and is digital as apposed to the surefire which is analogue.
 
"I have a Pazon Altair in my Mk3 which works down to 6 volts and is digital as apposed to the surefire which is analogue."
That costs about $100 bucks more for the Digital over Analogue. I prefer playing my 33rpm vinyl over CD's
But good to know. Can you still use the original OEM coils with your kit possm?
 
Shackkat said:
Super interesting info on the MK3 unit. Thank you for the information on the MKIV and battery. Reliability is very important to me.
I noticed overall the factory harness is bulky and very typical of an overthought 1970’s style. I’m tempted to tear it down and pair it back. The previous owner already removed the turn indicators and bobbed the wires closely to the harness. I might rewrite the bike and change the ignition.
Click to expand...

There is a lot of good information on developing your own wiring harness...there are some impressive examples in here with photos and guidance that are Norton specific, be it a replacement harness or building your own.
Batteries? After 20 years of dirt biking I would wager that you have a clue as to what type is best for your style of riding/use.
Electronic ignition opinions abound...almost like a "best oil" thread...again, lots of information with a search or question specific to the topic.
 
Dan,

Congratulations on your two new Commandos! Of my bikes, the 850 Commando is the favorite ride.

You may be aware of two Commando issues that should be researched and addressed. On this site, you’ll find discussions on the infamous gearbox layshaft bearing that has a higher failure rate. While your ’73 is apart, this is a good time to check that. I don’t know if that issue applied to the ’76; others here will have a better answer for that model.

Another issue discussed here is the rear brake cable/lever. If the rear brake cable fails, the brake lever falls down to the roadway surface; this brake cable failure happened to a fellow rider in the 1980’s and caused him to crash. An aftermarket return spring is the fix for this.

I am running the same front Don Pender brake system you have and am very happy with it.

Again, congratulations and enjoy your “new” machinery. :)

Russ in Northern California.
 
998cc said:
On this site, you’ll find discussions on the infamous gearbox layshaft bearing that has a higher failure rate. While your ’73 is apart, this is a good time to check that. I don’t know if that issue applied to the ’76; others here will have a better answer for that model.
Click to expand...

More so for a '76 as it would have had the Portuguese brass cage ball bearing originally.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
"I have a Pazon Altair in my Mk3 which works down to 6 volts and is digital as apposed to the surefire which is analogue."
That costs about $100 bucks more for the Digital over Analogue. I prefer playing my 33rpm vinyl over CD's
But good to know. Can you still use the original OEM coils with your kit possm?
Click to expand...
Yes its just a bolt in kit.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Dan,
Another option for E.I.'s is the Pazon Sure-Fire which works very well with stock 6 volt coils...(if your battery was below 12 volts). Pazon sorted the Ignition Module to still operate at lower Voltage rates before Boyer finally got off there butt and updated to the Mk4.
It is very similar to a Mk4 Boyer, maybe a little nicer in appearance. The Trigger Assembly is a little nicer made, and the Ignition Module is slightly more compact. They are about $10-15 more expensive than the Boyer Mk4. At least here in Canada. You strobe the timing at 4000 RPM instead of 5000 for the Boyer. I have this unit and have had no issues for over +50,000 miles.
They also carry a variety of E.I.'s so you can check them out. I have used and installed both but my choice is the Pazon Sure-Fire IMHO, and both would be safe for your e-start.
As Stated above in post #28 Electronics don't like a lot of heat under the Points cover. but others can give their experience with their choice of E.I.'s. YMMV.

Pazon Ignitions Limited

Overview of Digital & Analogue Ignition Systems. Classic bike & car electronic ignitions for road & racing.
www.pazon.com

Cheers,
Tom
Click to expand...
Bought a Paxon sure-fire at the Supershow yesterday . The Boyer MK 1V works fine , but just want to try it . Boy am I spoiled .
 
Still running bad old Boyer MK3 on my Mk3. I wanted to stay with the matching numbers and letters.
I've never heard a kickback from it but I don't bother trying to estart with a low battery.
Fearful of the dreaded kickback, a few years ago I installed a tiny second battery on its own isolated ignition circuit just to provide full voltage at cold startup.
Most of the time I forget to use it!

Glen
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top