Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch

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Stillreel said:
Here's my anti wet sump valve zip-tied to an ignition cut-off switch (when vertical/closed). Works like a charm.

BC

Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch
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That unit looks pretty servicable, but the blade connector scares me. If that's all that's preventing a crank rebuild, I'd make that connector a little more secure.

I still believe wet-sumping is only an issue with a worn oil pump or a machine that sits idle for extended periods. In the latter case, pull the sump plug.
 
Hi,

I don't think oil drain has as much to do with the condition of the oil pump than we are led to believe , but more to do with the position of the crankshaft at rest. I have not read much on here about where owners pistons are when the bike is stopped, maybe bringing them up to nearer TDC would reduce the rate at which oil enters the crankcase . The reason I say this is my own 69 used to fill the sump in two weeks sitting and it was very difficult to get the crank to rotate with the Kickstarter , but then for whatever reason it became easy to kick as the engine was coming to rest near TDC and now it can sit for months with very little oil drain. Go figure.
Engines do come to rest in the same place or 180 degrees opposite as anyone who has replaced a starter ring gear will already know that.

Jg
 
Can we talk about this a little bit. My bike wet sumps after a couple of weeks and I always drain the sump before starting. Hearing horror stories about smoking and oil shooting all over. I have never had this happen as I drain it. It is necessary to drain the sump or just start it up and let it bathe the cam?
Learning all the time here. Discuss.





comnoz said:
Peter R said:
Lannis said:
Eh voila! Not one drop of oil lost into the sump in several months .... Best $85 you can spend


...Lannis
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Lannis, a lot has been written about these anti-wet sump valves, and I believe that the pro's and cons deeply divide the classic british bike frathernity.
After the bike has been parked for several months, a vacuum in the suction line downstream of the anti-wet sump valve can occur, and the oil pump will not be able to pump any oil as result.
I personally rather live with a wet sumped engine than facing the concequence of a pump that tries to displace air instead of oil.
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The AMR mod places the valve on the outlet of the pump so there is not a possibility of it air-locking the pump as there is with the valve in the suction hose. There is also no loss of oil pressure.

But, Personally I just let the engine wet-sump.

I figure if the engine has sat long enough for the oil to drain from the tank, then it has also drained from the camshaft and lifters. When the cases are wet-sumped then the cam gets an oil bath as soon as the crank turns.
Jim
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It is largely influenced by what breather you use I think.

In stock set up, people have reported blowing out the drive side seal due to starting the engine with a sump full of oil.

I use the Comnoz screw in sump reed valve breather. I have never drained the sump prior to staring and the breather does an excellent job of returning excess sump oil to the tank, and very quickly too.

This is during the riding season, when it may have stood a few weeks max. I wouldn't leave it all winter and expect it to be OK as the pump would probably be trying to suck air from an empty oil tank until the breather refilled it. Which would, of course, not be desirable.
 
I bought this device after reading about it on Access Norton, or that's where I thought I read about it but perhaps not.

I don't ride anywhere near as much as I'd like, so some kind of definite on/off valve - versus a less predictable spring & ball arrangement - seemed like a good idea, but only if I could have a built in electrical cut-out as well.

This works sufficiently well that I'm thinking of doing away with the ignition switch entirely. Probably need to think that over a little more - there's probably some great reason for not doing it that I've happily glossed over.

For now, ignition switch on, turn oil on (which activates ignition system) and go. Reverse at the end of the ride.

Alex

Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch


Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch
 
Alexol said:
I bought this device after reading about it on Access Norton, or that's where I thought I read about it but perhaps not.

I don't ride anywhere near as much as I'd like, so some kind of definite on/off valve - versus a less predictable spring & ball arrangement - seemed like a good idea, but only if I could have a built in electrical cut-out as well.

This works sufficiently well that I'm thinking of doing away with the ignition switch entirely. Probably need to think some more as there is probably some great reason for not doing so that I haven't thought of yet.

For now, ignition switch on, turn oil on (which activates ignition system) and go. Reverse at the end of the ride.

Alex

Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch


Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch
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I have the same switched valve as you. It comes from John Epp in Canada and works fine. I only turn it off after finishing the days ride not when out an about (it takes week to drain if i don't use it anyway).Now an then i stop the engine by turning the valve off just to check it kills the motor.
 
Alexol said:
I bought this device after reading about it on Access Norton, or that's where I thought I read about it but perhaps not.

I don't ride anywhere near as much as I'd like, so some kind of definite on/off valve - versus a less predictable spring & ball arrangement - seemed like a good idea, but only if I could have a built in electrical cut-out as well.

This works sufficiently well that I'm thinking of doing away with the ignition switch entirely. Probably need to think that over a little more - there's probably some great reason for not doing it that I've happily glossed over.

For now, ignition switch on, turn oil on (which activates ignition system) and go. Reverse at the end of the ride.

Alex

Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch


Anti-wetsump & Peace-of-mind switch
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I like your rear sets they look well made and the gear lever is away from your folding kick start, I am in the planning of making my own rear sets for my project bike and would be intrested in seeing more pics if possiable of both sides of your bike.

Ashley
 
Thanks Alex maybe start another tread as I know a lot of people here would be also interested and to know how they are in use on your bike, they look well made and who makes them etc.

Many thanks

Ashley
 
IronJohns or something similar named as I remember makes that switch. Used to be around $125.
 
ashman said:
Thanks Alex maybe start another tread as I know a lot of people here would be also interested and to know how they are in use on your bike, they look well made and who makes them etc.

Many thanks

Ashley
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Ash, I'm pretty certain those rear sets are from NYC Norton.
 
I used to have a little wet sumping - oil blowing out of the breather. I just lapped the surfaces inside my oil pump to tighten things up and it never seems to wet sump anymore. Ken Canaga turned me on to this.

There's also and the trick of bringing the crank up to TDC (compression) so the journal oil holes are at the top and sell likely to pass oil. Sometimes I do this when its parked for extended periods.

Checking the oil tank level when parked a few days will tell you if its wet sumping or not.

Thinner oil makes it worse.
 
To change the subject slightly.....About 1 1/2 years ago I happened to call Colorado Norton Works and talked to Matt Rambow about some machine work on my transmission cover and I asked him if he sold anti-sump valves anymore. Matt said that he was developing one and it should be on his website in about six months. Well I check the CNW website monthly and have yet to see anything.
Has anyone seen or heard about such an item from him? Maybe Matt will chime in on this.......
 
OldBalz said:
To change the subject slightly.....About 1 1/2 years ago I happened to call Colorado Norton Works and talked to Matt Rambow about some machine work on my transmission cover and I asked him if he sold anti-sump valves anymore. Matt said that he was developing one and it should be on his website in about six months. Well I check the CNW website monthly and have yet to see anything.
Has anyone seen or heard about such an item from him? Maybe Matt will chime in on this.......
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Not to disparage CNW, but what's wrong with AMR?
 
by CNW » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:55 amWe used the modification that AMR offers for many years. The first 30 bikes or so have it installed in the timing cover. These were done by another guy, I cant think of his name, that later gave the rights to AMR so they could offer the modification. I found the results very inconsistent with some bikes not sumping a bit and other draining down to the crank in a very short time. This was frustrating since I didnt know until the customers started reporting back to me after they took delivery of the machines. I know that some people dont mind the wetsumping but I dont want to tell my customers that they have to drain the oil out of the crank and pour it back into the oil tank before going on a ride.
 
http://www.amr-of-tucson.com/nortech.html
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So, the work was not done by AMR. This adds some shit in the game then, doesn't it? I and a number of contributors here have had very positive results with the mod done by AMR. Of course, the timing cover does need to be installed correctly. Unfortunately, not every Norton owner has the ability to do so. CNW may very well come up with a better anti wetsumping device than the AMR mod. If it is placed between the pump and tank, I'd avoid it like the plague.
 
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