1969 Commando revitalization.

Awesome post I’m learning . To fully comprehend Commando types its going to take time and pictorial comparisons because so far the only differences I see are Halo's and pipes the rest all looks the same.

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They are very much the same and most from the beginning of the Commando through 1974 can fairly easily be made into any model looks wise. All the engines are basically the same with the obvious difference in 750 and 850 but even that can be confusing at a quick glance. For instance, I have two 750s that look like 850s with a quick glance due to aftermarket cylinders. The MKIII (1975) is different in the it is left-shift, rear disk brake, electric start and a few other things - but with effort, even that could be made into an earlier bike.

Look up
 
Question: I have one to build but the barrels are black - should they be aluminum color to match the head or black? Does anyone have a list of the black/aluminum barrels by model, year, or whatever - I would like to include that info in my Commando ID Page
My understanding is that all 750's were silver except for the 72 Combat motor. The 73 850 MKI was also silver and changed to black in 74 with the MKII.
 
Strange looking plug appears to be new and was finger tight , no matter I’m going to buy the reed valve breather
 

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Check out the Hagen shocks , not good they appear to be new but all spring action only partial damper.

Also have the old ones DOT brand in small print label reads DOT “Devoid Of Trouble “

Any suggestions on good Commando shocks for 190 rider ?
 

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Check out the Hagen shocks , not good they appear to be new but all spring action only partial damper.

Although I can't remember exactly, the uneven damping could be because they're gas shocks so might be worth trying them out first if you haven't already done so.

Also have the old ones DOT brand in small print label reads DOT “Devoid Of Trouble “

A common type of '70's aftermarket shock. DOT used to manufacture motorcycles.
 
Although I can't remember exactly, the uneven damping could be because they're gas shocks so might be worth trying them out first if you haven't already done so.



A common type of '70's aftermarket shock. DOT used to manufacture motorcycles.
The history of DOT is pretty cool gives me a new perspective I think I’ll give them a try .

Next new tires probably Avon RR or Bridgestone BT45’s and get my plate
 
Strange looking plug appears to be new and was finger tight , no matter I’m going to buy the reed valve breather
Not sure if you're joking? If not:

-The strange looking plugs hold the strainer and are sold by Andover Norton. If prone to sumping, they let you empty the sump without wearing out the threads in the engine case. I have one, it works fine, but mine is kept tight :). Apologies if you knew all that.

-I also have a reed valve in my breather hose. That benefitted my bike. No oil leaks, oil no longer frothy in the return and the bike ran better, sort of quieter and less lumpy, if you know what I mean.
 
Not sure if you're joking? If not:

-The strange looking plugs hold the strainer and are sold by Andover Norton. If prone to sumping, they let you empty the sump without wearing out the threads in the engine case. I have one, it works fine, but mine is kept tight :). Apologies if you knew all that.

-I also have a reed valve in my breather hose. That benefitted my bike. No oil leaks, oil no longer frothy in the return and the bike ran better, sort of quieter and less lumpy, if you know what I mean.
I'm a green horn wasn't joking I'm totally new to Norton's despite how long I've been a member here at accessnorton. I didn't know what it was but now I do thanks for the info! I'm still going to install a red valve breather the current breather hose hides some of the beauty of the engine.
 
So my tire rubs on the fender , everything looks straight and correctly mounted, I’ve got a Avon S•M 4.00 S19 tire . Anything look out of place? I’m Jone’sing to buy modern tires but not until I figure out what the tire rub is about
 

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Is this wire supposed to be on the outside of the fender tubing? I think it would be rather easy to drill the tube and run the wire inside
 

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So the 4.00 probably too much tire or maybe wrong fender too?

I’ve been picture searching and saw one commando that didn’t have the recessed area (where mine rubs) on the fender .

Thanks for the reply
 
So the 4.00 probably too much tire or maybe wrong fender too?

I’ve been picture searching and saw one commando that didn’t have the recessed area (where mine rubs) on the fender .

Thanks for the reply
I have had both a 4.00-19 and a 4.00-18, no rubbing issues on my 74.

What does the underside of the ribbed sleeve look like? Any rubber on it? (hard to tell from the angle of the pic if it is close enough - either way add a couple zip ties and get it up and out of the way).

Was the front timing side of your mudguard dented and then bent out? It looks damaged at the bottom corner. It may not be the right one? From the Andover parts site for 68-70

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From last year.

Just a bit of a warning. A while ago I replaced the original rear guard with an after market item from a well known supplier, never thought anything about it until I fitted a wm 3 wheel with 400. x 18 tyre . I was out with my mate and he pointed out a ridge cut into the tyre by the lip on the guard. I got home slowly but ok and ordered a guard from AN and this was correctly sized and flared at the front for the oil tank banjo and pipe. The bike gets parked with the timing side against a wall and I'd never noticed the ridge being caused, felt pretty lucky that my buddy Dave saw the damage before anything bad happened. The guard wasn't from AN or RGM , but still a main British Bike Parts seller in the UK.
 
Oh dear that's it I have the wrong fender , thanks for the pic one more part to buy my bike is a mix master of parts grrr .

Got to ask when you ran an 18 rear did you also run an 18 front? I think I'd like to run 18 and 18 on Akront rims.
 
Oh dear that's it I have the wrong fender , thanks for the pic one more part to buy my bike is a mix master of parts grrr .

Got to ask when you ran an 18 rear did you also run an 18 front? I think I'd like to run 18 and 18 on Akront rims.
I run a 4.00-18 on an Excel WM3 rear, and a 100/90-19 WM3 front now. With the Avon AM26 Roadrider they are the same rolling diameter.

Some like the 90/90 better on the front (plenty of threads on this) as it is perceived to be quicker: both narrower x-profile and smaller rolling diameter.

I used to run the 4.00-19 WM2 rear with a 3.50-19 WM2 front, but there have been so many other changes to the bike a comparison of tire sizes itself would be useless from me. I dont perceive my bike to turn in any slower now, but if I put on a 90/90, who knows?

I think a few have run a 18" front, and on plenty of race bikes too. The front mudguard would look a bit high. But then again, there is the SS.

1969 Commando revitalization.


As an interesting party trick, I super-imposed the 69 fastback mudguard on the later one, roughly aligning the arc and the notch on the front for the chainguard. Notice how much bigger the stock one is than the fastback mudguard. I kinda like the smaller one... maybe I should replace the horn. ;-)

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I’ve been picture searching and saw one commando that didn’t have the recessed area (where mine rubs) on the fender .

Yes, a central oil tank model mudguard/fender wouldn't have the recess and has a different mounting stay (although DogT's and ILLF8ED's 'S' models have the 'R' stay)...


"S" TYPE & 1970 "Roadster (not 'R')
 
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