Being on the centre-stand has no bearing on whether you use a feeler gauge or the "counting holes" method.Ok, but why would "adjustment by hole" be affected by being on the centre stand vs just propped up?
I've also being playing with these adjusters, in-between fitting some new Oxford bar end mirrors and an adjustable brake lever (Brembo master cylinder)
Good results so far, I can now see behind me and the brake lever is much better.
I don't have a side stand on mine, so it's always parked on the centre stand. I wonder if this has squashed the iso rubbers?Being on the centre-stand has no bearing on whether you use a feeler gauge or the "counting holes" method.
It is just, in my view, bad practice. On the centre-stand the whole rear of the bike is being propped up by the rear iso. That is very likely to distort the rubber inner giving a "bad" reading, whichever method you use.
Cheers
I don't use the side stand either - I use a scissor jack on the frame rails.I don't have a side stand on mine, so it's always parked on the centre stand. I wonder if this has squashed the iso rubbers?
It's a real bugger of a job to replace them, so I doubt that I'll pull them just to have look though!
I did that when I was 17 on the soft fleshy part of the inner forearm. I actually smelt the burning and saw the smoke momentarily before feeling the pain.
Almost funny how you see it and smell it before you feel it.I did that when I was 17 on the soft fleshy part of the inner forearm. I actually smelt the burning and saw the smoke momentarily before feeling the pain.
Still got the scar if I look closely !
Yeah… but… it didn’t seem very funny at the time !Almost funny how you see it and smell it before you feel it.
Then it's too late...
Hmmm, what's that smell....Oh Sh.........ttttt!!!!
No, never done that… ever!
Yes I know, but the same logic applies to parking the brute on the centre stand, hence my musings...I don't use the side stand either - I use a scissor jack on the frame rails.
BTW - above I was referring to not doing the iso check/adjustment on the centre-stand.
Parking it on the scissor jack has the added benefit of not leaving the centre-stand spring fully stretched for over 90% of the time (I now flick the stand up!)Yes I know, but the same logic applies to parking the brute on the centre stand, hence my musings...![]()
I've done OK on heat for quite a while - the last test was holding back a Norton being timed with the outside of my leg against the muffler.I tested the temperature of the sweet and sour sauce straight from the microwave. It was f-hot!

Recheck ignition timing,.might be too retarded.
and test again....Recheck ignition timing,.might be too retarded.![]()
...well, something's too retarded!Recheck ignition timing,.might be too retarded.![]()
The carb is rubber mounted, just tilt it to one side by enough to clear.Took it for a ride, to warm up the oil before a change. Nice ride. All was well until I backed into my garage, the throttle started hanging, around 2,000rpm. I found the cause. I have a single 934 Amak mk2. Where the throttle cable exits at the top of the carb, it has a plastic screw cap and the cable is in a stainless sheath through the centre of the cap. The sheath looks like it is rubbing a rubber grommet on the frame when the engine's running. I think this is enough to vibrate the plastic cap loose. As in, no longer screwed on. Amazed it ran so well!
Short of milling a very slight extra angle on the 2-1 inlet manifold (beyond my ability), I can't see any way to create more room for the carb. Another regular check to add to the list.
Won’t it run “Lean” then?The carb is rubber mounted, just tilt it to one side by enough to clear.
Do you mean rotate it? Might be possible. Not sure there's enough before fuel level gets to the gasket. Have you done this successfully?The carb is rubber mounted, just tilt it to one side by enough to clear.