Wiring tips n tricks...?

Gents,

I will shortly be entering the dark underworld of motorcycle wiring.

The wiring on my Commando was pretty dire, and as I was going down a none standard route, I decided it best to bin the lot and start from scratch.

I've got a 3 phase alternator, combined rectifier control unit job, Tri-Spark with coil from Matt at CNW, and as little else as possible; capacitor, zenor, assimilator, indicators, etc all gone. Not even got any warning lights!

My objective is to keep things as simple and minimalist as possible, so forgive me, but I don't wish to instal banks of relays etc.

Any handy hints n tips from those who have been before, and would care to share?

Fast Eddie said:

Gents,

I've got a 3 phase alternator, combined rectifier control unit job, Tri-Spark with coil from Matt at CNW, and as little else as possible; capacitor, zenor, assimilator, indicators, etc all gone. Not even got any warning lights!

Click to expand...

Assuming your only interest is to have a running bike, pretty much just connect the dots. Just make sure you have someway of killing the engine in case of stuck carbys. However, unsure about the Tri-Spark. Do the instructions say anything about needing battery or capacitor to "float" it through the alternator cycles? 'Tried to look in the Tri-Spark web site, but it's being a bugger.

If you want lights, you really only need to tap into the output from the rectifier to supply power to the headlight and brake switches. That, and make sure you have good grounds coming back from the lamps. Try this on for size: http://cycles.evanfell.com/wp-content/u ... n_Fell.png
Honestly, I'm not sure you'd need the 30-amp fuze from the charging circuit, but it couldn't hurt.

Modern connectors , 2 nice big grounds (one from motor to frame ,one from battery to frame).

Its so easy to do but first draw up a wire diagram with the way you want it done with using the lease wires, if you use chimp connectors make sure you use the right chrimping tools that don't over chrimp and proper splicing tools, have all your wiring layed out on the bike and heat shrink all your wiring, another thing I did was to run my earth wire seprete to my main wiring harness, my Norton only runs 4 main wires and 1 earth wire and only one main fuse, make it as simple as you can, the less wiring the less troubles you will have.

Ashley

Simplify = reliability. Separate the ignition circuit from the charge and lighting. Use a robust master lock, one that has a position for OFF - IGNITION - LIGHTS. If you fit a ignition cut out switch, make sure it is in-line with the wire that carries the power to the EI box.
If you don't use Lucas bullet connectors, the alternative is Spade (male / female) and soft plastic crimp sleeves that pull over the crimp to make it weather proof. Get a proper Crimp Tool and use heat shrink tube behind the crimp and its sleeve to make a strong bond to the wire itself. Earthing is vital, use ring crimps with a spot of soft solder on the exposed wire as precaution. Make sure all wire is Automotive DC, typically 3mm and always ensure earth is RED (assuming standard Positive Earth). Use a modern blade fuse. There are several schematics that have been posted on the forum, if you don't want all the OE fruit like speed / tacho lamps, indicators etc' you can do the charging, lighting and ignition with a dozen wires.

I went with a MotoGadger M-Unit. It's a bit pricy at $300. But it's an all digital, ground activated complete control unit. small wires from the switches, easy peasy.



they also have addons like an alarm and a key fob.

I found the best connectors to coil packs, alternator leads and ignition trigger wires that have too often a need to part, are the long thin units ya slip bare wire in then screw on cap to permanently conduct but easy to remove even years later. There's stuff called DeTox that is anti-oxidizer cleaner conduction helper that not a bad idea on all terminals. I had old '40 brass body flash light that was pretty dim till I DeTox'd it then bright enough to be quite useful. Only really helps to relay head light bulbs and maybe horn but nothing else draws much to bother with and anything with spade terminals much always be suspect. Glass fuses suck after a time in vibration conditions. I used bolt retainer hole in bottom of headlight as common earth point for that bunch of clutter. The 1/2 size 12 v 20-30 amp relays save space in light shell. You can move switch control functions to preferred side and come up with a use for the un-used E-start button. Exhaust flame thrower ignition out a stun gun guts occurs to me.

ashman said:

if you use chimp connectors
Ashley

Click to expand...

LoL that about sums up my rewiring!

G'day,
I did a complete rewire to my 1975 Mk 3 last year, in addition to earlier modifications like Trispark ignition and dual outlet coil, solid state rectifyer/regulator, solid state 'ignition' assimilator, I added new switch gear, ignition switch, console with warning lights (from CNW). I have since deleted the warning light assimilator and replaced with a voltmeter (also from CNW) and reassigned the red pilot light as an oil pressure warning light (requiring fitting of pressure switch, which is plumbed into a 'T' taken of rocker supply line which also supply to oil pressure gauge).
If you have a Mk3 you don't need the capacitor if your starter is modified with 4 brushes and the battery is in good state of charge. Good earth from battery and engine to frame are essential.
In my opinion the important points to consider are to use Japanese type bullet connects with clear plastic covers crimping with the correct tool will suffice but I also solder the wires into connectors which prevents the wire pullling out when unplugging. Don't be frightened of wiring diagrams, I drew seperate circuits for each function and apart from using black for power (+ positive) and red (- negative/earth) assigned other coloured wires for each circuit, sticking to the stock colours where applicable.
The inside of the headlight often resembles a tangle of wires, several circuits can be re-routed in part outside the headlight reducing the mess.
The advantages of replacing original items like rectifyer, capacitor and zener diodes includes simplified wiring and increased reliability.
I'm happy to send the individual circuit diagrams is this ight help.
Cheers, Vintner

Use flexure loops where wires go from engine to frame, strain releif at points wire entry, etc.

Saber13 on this Forum has Mk III wiring circuits available in digital format, and has previously offered them to members of the Forum. Give Chuck a PM.

Slick

Fast Eddie said:

Gents,

I will shortly be entering the dark underworld of motorcycle wiring.

The wiring on my Commando was pretty dire, and as I was going down a none standard route, I decided it best to bin the lot and start from scratch.

I've got a 3 phase alternator, combined rectifier control unit job, Tri-Spark with coil from Matt at CNW, and as little else as possible; capacitor, zenor, assimilator, indicators, etc all gone. Not even got any warning lights!

My objective is to keep things as simple and minimalist as possible, so forgive me, but I don't wish to instal banks of relays etc.

Any handy hints n tips from those who have been before, and would care to share?

Click to expand...

Relays ensure max. voltage to what ever, horns, main beam, ignition. They by-pass all other switches and get their power direct from the battery. Essential kit in a harness - plus earth wire for each component back to the battery.

My bar switches for lights get warm w/o relay so assume that's where most our candle tight tinted voltage drops. Warm wires have more resistance too so one reason don't get much louder horn with relay and sure don't need it for signals and ignition.

Goes by other names too with more extensive kits. I use two for dual coil pack removal, two in points area for easy long lead removal and 2-3 for charger wires. Almost as compact as Lucas bullets so may have use for some under the cluster flock near stem area.
http://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/push-wire ... s/6666019/

As youre in olde blighty , best quality wires ive found are Hillman Hunter . :shock: Correct colour codes with quality fittings .

You remove , strip harness , wash . select correct colour and fitting & fit at one end . Secure tomparallilly with a few strategeically placed cable ties -
wire bundles at take off / split points .

Worth salveageining the fittings from unused to use , though youll wreck a few . Then ARMOURALL WIRE , wipe and tape bind - with quality tape .

Though under $300 is reasonable value for a good premade loom . Mk IIIs were alledgedly T160 at some time . Allows a few spares for mistakes .

H. H.

hobot said:

My bar switches for lights get warm w/o relay so assume that's where most our candle tight tinted voltage drops. Warm wires have more resistance too so one reason don't get much louder horn with relay and sure don't need it for signals and ignition.

Goes by other names too with more extensive kits. I use two for dual coil pack removal, two in points area for easy long lead removal and 2-3 for charger wires. Almost as compact as Lucas bullets so may have use for some under the cluster flock near stem area.
http://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/push-wire ... s/6666019/

Click to expand...

Are we talking about the same thing? http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... relays.php if you scroll down you'll find micro relays which are suitable for bikes - I've got two in the headlamp shell for horns and main/dipped beam. Fitting a relay will have voltage for the headlight going through the v.low resistance relay only and not the high resistance bar switch.

hobot said:

.... There's stuff called DeTox that is anti-oxidizer cleaner conduction helper that not a bad idea on all terminals. I had old '40 brass body flash light that was pretty dim till I DeTox'd it then bright enough to be quite useful.

Click to expand...

It's DeoxIT made by Caig Labs. http://www.caig.com/ Wonderful stuff. The D series (D5 spray or DP5 pump bottle) is good for switches and connectors. Now available at Radio Shack - whoohoo. I use a foam tipped swab to dab it on and a can of it lasts a long time.

the relays are really mandatory , as decent current turns the switch points into contact breakers , or suchlike . scorched .

Also you can use 5 core trailer wire for the bar switches . Lighter stuff if its only low current , rather than thick ugly stuff.
Main Cable straight from battery to relay & then Headlamp . Illegal 110 / 130 rally bulbs are availiable for halogen lamps .

Whens the last time your headlamp bulb watts were checked . Might melt the plastic tail lamp if you tried it there , but there
were MINIMUM wattage & dimensions , hence the BIG Lucas taillamp , post 73 .
Be worth having something fancy at the rear in the big cities , back 72 or so a chopper with tall sissybar tailight atop in
a stream of traffic , in the rain - was visable several cars aft . :? maybe they styed the rest of the machine to suit the high
taillight .

If you are using crimp connectors buy a quality ratcheting crimper...pricey but well worth it, bought mine fairly recently but wish I'd done it years ago...my connections are much stronger and more consistent now. The good ones have replaceable and interchangeable crimp dies so they can be used for all sorts of wiring tasks.

If your early harness is original, it will route the main feed from battery to ammeter to ignition switch back up to headlight switch then to the dip switch then to the headlight. Probably losing at least 1/2 volt on the way. There is at least 5 ft of wasted cable and half a dozen surplus connectors in that circuit alone. Shitcan the ammeter, wire direct to the battery with a fat black wire to feed all the main lights and ignition. switch the lights and horn with some skinny wires and relays and route a fat red wire round all the major components and to the frame and engine. Fit a cheap chinese digital voltmeter where the ammeter used to go and sit there nice and smug reading 14volts at 1500rpm with the lights on. 55/60 w headlight bulbs are ace with the proper amount of volts driving them.

This is negative ground, and a different brand of electronics...