Tips or tricks, swing arm bushes

Anyone have any tips or tricks to share for removal and install of the swing arm bushes without a press? i saw somewhere on her using threaded rod and the old steering bearings to install the new bearings, and it made me think of using threaded rod, with two sockets on each end of the swing arm, one the OD size and one the ID size to push the bush out, then switch them around and repeat for the other side. Maybe something similar for install with the sockets on the inside against the bush?

Try freezing the bronze bushes, then warming the swing arm in the hot sun or gently with a heat gun and try installing them then.(Don't burn your paint!!!
Regards Mike

It's easy to do. Get fine thread 3/8" rod, and some hardened washers, oversize outside diameter washers if you can. A socket with an OD that slips in the swingarm but catches the bushing is needed for the removal. Anything flat with a hole in it at the other end of the rod works for removal and installation.

Like' freeze the shit out'a the bushes n' steel should be hot. Never grease . S.T.P. Fluid 180 W.

Using the chill/heat method might work on the install but he still has to get the old ones out.

As long as you have the swingarm off you might want to check to see if it's straight. If you find you have a loose fit due to wear on the cradle plates, you can shim it using rear iso shims between the dustcover and the swingarm. Make sure you use equal sized shims on both sides.

Freezings the way to go. Slips in good .

Thanks for tips guys, I'll hit the hardware store today for some threaded rod, I have two sockets that seem to be perfect fits for getting them out. I never rode the bike, so can't comment on how things felt, but I put the spindle in the cradle without the swing arm, and tightened down the center locking bolt on it, and put a 1/2" bolt in the end and wiggled and couldn't notice any perceivable movement in it. I just though while the bike is apart and since I'm powder coating or paint the swing arm might as well replace the bushes

If spindle came out fairly easy, likely spindle is still good to go. Just testing spindle in cradle won't reveal slack in the bushes. Now would be good time to get the spindle collars for the long haul. Search forum as a upgrade to the leaky stock o-rings is available.

These bushings are soft and porous. Handle with care. Soak them in your oil for a day before install to precondition.

Again, be careful, Too much force ban crack the rim off.

Sockets worked out well, $6.00 in parts including some hardened washers to use the rod again to install the steering bearings.

So soak them then freeze them, that should go over better with the wife then the motor in the oven did. She is pregnant though and might eat the bushes...

I'm a bit late to this thread but for future reference . . . . .

Another option is to install an oversize swing arm pin and ream the existing bushings to the new oversize pin.

http://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html

When you powdercoat or paint it's a good idea to mask certain areas. It's much easier than trying to remove it later.
+1 on putting the collars on now. It's one more area to mask too.

Nice work!

It is a matter of debate whether it is proper to bore out oilite bushings. Some say it smears the surface and ruins the porosity feature so the benefit of having an oilite bushing is negated.

SAE 140 is available and I still have some left from a gallon I bought in 1972. STP snake oil - no way for me.

rpatton said:

http://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html

When you powdercoat or paint it's a good idea to mask certain areas. It's much easier than trying to remove it later.
+1 on putting the collars on now. It's one more area to mask too.

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I was really avoiding powder coat for these reasons, but I think it's the toughest most economical solution for me. I wasn't going to do anything but clean the frame then the guilt came over me, when will I have it this far apart again!?

Another option is to install an oversize swing arm pin and ream the existing bushings to the new oversize pin.

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It ain't that much bigger meat in there but definitely an endurance upgrade I did on Peel. These bushes definitely depend on the designed in oil retaining as so little actual supply remains after a season in attendance. But what do ya do if the spindle is shottoshit as well as the cradle bore, like both my Combats arrived with? Are over size bushes available? Otherwise a bit of a reaming to fit and note to stay on top of lube or spindles go to scrap via rust and lip wear that can trap em. Not in your life time maybe but these things will long out last us.

I have changed my mind on my good idea of grease zerks in each bush bottom d/t wiping off Trixie's zerks twice under the chain d/t too much flop after a time. In Peel I'll fed grease in center of spindle zerk and open holes for it to get to the bushes. Personally I now feel the main reason for the oil feed is to keep enough mess around to protect the corrosive prone spindle finish rather than actual friction and wear reduction.

While the swing arm is off, please examine close enough to tell us if its symmetrical or not with a bit flared out R leg?

hobot said:

While the swing arm is off, please examine close enough to tell us if its symmetrical or not with a bit flared out R leg?

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Why do you ask that one hobot? Funny you said that because i just was washing the swing arm and noticed the right side at the very end where the rear axel goes through, it seems slightly bent inward, where the left side looks straighter. Pretty sure my eye is not fooled, i stared at it for a while :lol:

Ok thanks stranger that's the 750's really check I sought. Its partly to accommodate the power unit shift L for more chain tire clearance and maybe partly to accommodate the speedo drive too.