why light wheels make your bike turn easier

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Yes, on the racetrack, on high powered bikes, at or near triple digit speeds, it can be very much like riding on a dirt road, loose, pushing the front, sliding the back, correcting understeer by "wicking it up" to step out the rear and point the bike where you want to go. It can be very forgiving, oddly, things happen slower the faster you go.
 
acotrel said:
Dances, You must be very rich.

Well at one time I was but now I am a poor broken nobody with a lot of motorcycles. :roll:

In all seriousness 80 RWHP was being cranked out in the 70's (short strokes) so that's an easy 90-95BHP at the crank.

Getting the power is not all that difficult as all you have to do is follow a few simple engine build recipes. The real trick is keeping it together to finish races, that's where the money comes in.

Besides, don't you folks use Methanol; I have a hunch that you should be able to ding 80 RWHP without too much of an exotic motor using methanol.
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
My guess is Blue Ridge Parkway.

Riding a Norton Commando there is one for the bucket list.

Actually Hume Road between Hume and Flint Hill (522) near Fairfield (now Marriot Ranches, ugh, think pony rides). That is the Blue Ridge in the background however, probably just south of Front Royal, so it would actually be the Skyline Drive. Blue Ridge Parkway starts farther south around Staunton at I64, I think.

Skyline Drive is not much fun, the speed limit is around 35, but the Blue Ridge Parkway is actually faster and has better and longer vistas. Think The Peaks of Otter. Then you're getting into some real backwater Virginia country.
 
acotrel » Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:43 am
Hobot, I owe you an apology. I thought your references to riding on the dirt were not relevant to road racing. Afterv watching the slow-mo videos of MotoGP bikes in corners, I perceive they are using the relationship between slide and drive as the bikes are always moving sideways at those power levels. With a Norton which always has less then 80 BHP, you don't usually progress to that level. There is an interesting article on the 500cc Guzzi bicylindrica in this month's Motorcycle Classics which give a comparison with the handling of a Manx Norton. The Guzzis stayed competitive with the four cylinder Gileras and MVs much longer, as a better package even if underpowered.

Just when I thot I'd said enough. Thanks for the nod Alan. If ya go slow enough then there is a difference between loose or firm handling but above some threshold when traction is over come, then its very similar with the major difference being tarmac is rather more forgiving because it tends to re-grip control back sooner/before over the edge. Its not an uncommon comment of salt speeders wishing for more off pavement practice. The Aztecs were said to have developed their blood letting practices because the obsidian knives were so easy to slice, well similar to living on marbles and arrowheads its just so easy slip and bleed.

I am so glad you can relate to what the GP's are up too, always getting wider than they'd like and using up precious tire reserve heating and therefore why I call em corner cripples they can't just flip TF out of those state of outward drifts and hook up phase 3 & 4 higher G force spiked turns. The Britten movie floored me in many ways one being the description of GP vs Superbike etc, GP pilots had to be able to stand em on their rear or their nose and slide and drift and pivot beyond two tire control hardly letting off. Its all about acceleration to me, I've inborn G' force calculator accumulator on idiot savant so don't ride like GP's or regular dirt bikers either, they spin tires and split/divide=substrate traction accleration too much for me. A tire done my way is either imprinted by road texture or edges smeared in tags, not globbed gummed up, not abraided not melted. Best control is very smooth straights > punctuated by violent spikes of various inputs, brake throttle, forks and lean.

Owe Alan apology for snipping at him reflexly about never too light of wheels so something wrong with the cycle or pilot.
Seeing the counter point to ever lighter wheels as 'always' a benefit made me look more into it online, motorcycles to bicycles, especially the off road kind rid to the max, to end up more educated on my confusion. When a cycle gets twitchy it unnerves and over works pilot and its the start of some splash of resonances that snap ya down in a flash. On THE Gravel its routine for bike to slip and self correct faster than pilot can react, so tends to build some tolerance for slightly out of control events you sense need no action. Another point in Britten movie that floored me was what one of his riders said before he died, coming off some hill approach bike gets upset twitchy but he just hangs on WOT praying it'll work itself out.
I never could induce any twitch or sense of out of control on Peel. I know the forces it takes to break free on heated race tires and how much more they can take than street tires spiking G's off hot slicks edges tossing the Ninja or SV650 but they always let go with a surprise suddeness that upsets bike by changing lean angle &/or steering aim. Never happened on Peel, just drifted wider to carry on same angle and turn radius, or could help rear swing out further but never w/o having to on purpose every time make her break loose. With that stability i think blown big block Peel might be able to cut some track times down to confuse onlookers and please me no end. Otherwise imagine the fun learning to stunt ride and just cut up on commutes now and then.

Early on and early off GP brakes, can only top these guys if don't have to brake as long, which mean hotter entry if ya can even imagine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huGexZrovco

here's the lean forces I want to top on an isolastic pushrod. An air cooled push rod ain't going have hp to press near 200 mph but it sure can about match the torque to mass ratio so similar accelerations up to some hp-speed threshold. Some these dudes can get ~ 60' over so should be worthy competition to find pecking order. What can put more time with more power down - by smoothness or digital-ness?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EfqG6YOM1g
 
comnoz said:
Now if you want a night and day difference try replacing an old pair of SR500 mag wheels with spoke wheels from a TT500. You wouldn't think it was the same bike. It almost transforms them into a decent handling motorcycle. Jim

That's my dream bike.

The only one on the list I can semi-afford, anyway.
 
Quelling to read spoked as an advantage. I think Rossi is as devious as he is skilled, so not posting in particular favor of him but this deserved dedication to him has got some the best over head views of what I think i've got a handle on to avoid. Just feel these guys at the point they want-need to really press the G's on their edges they get let down. Notice its usually in the middle of a fairly long evenly held sweeper. To induce it yourself on non GP bike just turn in sharper lower stronger through turns. Oh sure ya can transition into a drifting Stoner mode which keeps momentum up but don't sharpen the turn with more power planting. Notice how out of the blue surprised everyone is. DagNabit if ya gonna get crazy best to know when that's gonna hit and avoid or dive past it if cycle can take the hits. These things are strained as tight as a bow string, so at some point only takes a small pluck for them to ring a ding ding. A linked up ole rubber baby buggery is whole 'nother animal to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxgmEuRQiEM

About the best advice that Kieth Code gave us was "No one has ever crashed by tossing their bike too fast from one side to the other". That was all I needed to go out and prove him wrong "&" learn how to catch the balloon tire crashers into more fun than monkeys on THE Gravel, then told don't come back please.
 
Oh my oh my oh my ice racers on bare tires! I know it looks silly but they are demo-ing how to stay in control and turn w/o drifting out nor leaning much when front and rear are barely gripping. Phase 5 energy handling, at least the ones steering proper to hook a loose turn rather than fly wide. Ever feel pavement get that loose under you and want more of it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te5Xs77XVlU

Phase 5 has a feature none of elite racers or designers mention or are aware of at all > what to do about gravity steering like a wind vane Rooster on barns. Oh yeah not an option so far on robots or 'puterized corner cripples. Wheel mass difference front to rear matter then. DagNabit i love an old Commando isolastic clunker when tamed.

why light wheels make your bike turn easier

Rockets indeed.
 
BrianK said:
comnoz said:
Now if you want a night and day difference try replacing an old pair of SR500 mag wheels with spoke wheels from a TT500. You wouldn't think it was the same bike. It almost transforms them into a decent handling motorcycle. Jim

That's my dream bike.

The only one on the list I can semi-afford, anyway.

Jim, I suggest that if the steering geometry makes the handling of the bike well towards stable, using lighter wheels is more beneficial than when the steering is already light and quick and self-steering. Then it might crash you.
 
acotrel said:
....I suggest that if the steering geometry makes the handling of the bike well towards stable, using lighter wheels is more beneficial than when the steering is already light and quick and self-steering. Then it might crash you.


Please explain why.
 
I concur with Jim because I did that to exactly that bike and I had the same result - a much better handling and quicker motorcycle. Actually, I regard the SR500 - with wire wheels - as one of the best handling bikes I ever rode; still own it too.
 
The steering on my Seeley is extremely light and quick without using lighter wheels. When I ride it, it feels as though is about to do a number on me. It is really responsive, however I believe it is at the safe limit of the steering geometry. Lighter w heels might improve it, however they might also crash me. Extremely small changes to steering geometry etc. can have a very large and dramatic effect. In changing the fork yokes, my bike has gone from stable and standing up under brakes and turning the wrong way throwing the rider off-balance, to a condition where it stays neutral under brakes yet self steers itself through corners w hen under power with extremely quick actions. Would you fit lighter wheels which make it steer quicker ?
I suggest that in the SR500/TT500 example you are drawing a general conclusion based on insufficient evidence, making the bike quicker steering might not always be good. I recently had and RD250LC here, with a fairly small front tyre . On our roads there is often slight depressions running along them where the trucks have been - makes for very scary riding with all the wrong messages.
 
acotrel said:
Jim, I suggest that if the steering geometry makes the handling of the bike well towards stable, using lighter wheels is more beneficial than when the steering is already light and quick and self-steering. Then it might crash you.


Theoretically you might be right.
If a bike were borderline unstable then going to lighter wheels might push it over the edge. I still think the suspension and traction advantages of light wheels would make it worthwhile and if it became unstable then fix that with trail.

I raced an RZ 350 for some time. It was always just a bit twichy. I put ultralight magnesium wheels on it and it didn't make it any less stable. The lighter wheels did help my lap times.
I did have the RZ go "lock to lock" on me one time but that was when it still had stock wheels. That was on a deserted road when doing plug chops.
It never did do anything real bad on the track but it was never a real confidence inspiring ride either. I did finish one season in first place on it.
 
I love the steering on my Seeley, you can get out of corners so fast - however I'm very careful whenever I start riding it. A while back I noticed that the nut inside the top shocker mount had touched the tyre when the bike was accelerating, so I set the suspension up a notch. I know it will probably handle slightly differently the next time I use it. There is one tight hairpin on Winton Raceway - after I've done a few quiet laps, I gas the bike hard and early through there to see where the steering is going when used in anger. I always leave myself plenty of room, and sort of expect the situation where I might end up fighting the bike to the ground. It is actually quite good fun, and once I'm sure where the bike is going, I get stuck right into it.
 
I wouldn't increase the trail to compensate for lighter wheels which made the steering quicker. I think the way to go is to learn to ride faster with the change and try gassing the bike earlier in corners. I wouldn't like to do that with my bike - enough is enough. I'm already riding with a certain amount of blind faith about where the bike will end up as it comes out of corners.
If you have a look at MotoGP Work Shop on Youtube, they never go near the issue of steering geometry (rake and trail and yoke offset), however in the suspension and gearing videos they mention 'running wide in corners ' as something they work towards avoiding. I suggest that if the bike runs wide that is when the 'point and squirt' technique comes into play with the likelihood of a high side if you gas the bike too early, and it is the slower way around anyway.
 
I wouldn't increase the trail to compensate for lighter wheels which made the steering quicker. I think the way to go is to learn to ride faster with the change and try gassing the bike earlier in corners. I wouldn't like to do that with my bike - enough is enough. I'm already riding with a certain amount of blind faith about where the bike will end up as it comes out of corners

Now ya know why I call ALL other cycles "Corner Cripples", as it does take a leap of faith to compete with them and only a matter of time till some unpredictable clash of resonances take ya down. So imagine my amazement exceeding anything a modern could pull off on Ms Peel to point i gave up trying to find her limits in public so never did find out what she could do on real street tires and no oncoming to always be only a yard off paint line or else ... I always knew where and what Peel would do so did it w/o a worry in the world of losing control > only some hazard getting in the way in blinds too close to dodge in time. No one else knows what they are missing out on yet but I keep repeating it as I still cycle so could die any time and no one might ever discover what has driven me to sound like an ego maniac fool to seasoned racers.

W/o going to carbon fiber wheels, just using Mg rims and tubeless tires, can not reduce wheel mass enough to cause a cycle not to be improved in handling and performance. If ya fit 17" rims on our rigs you then run into the tire traction [or lean fouling] disappearing on edges that bigger OD wheels-tires don't suffer from as much. IF similar bike/rider mass and tire PSI then the patch areas are very similar but not the shape. I'm a snow and water skier and can turn sharper G's at *hi speed* on long edges of a ski than I can on a boggy board or snow board, which either drift out wide or loose grip for a splash down. You can low side and hi side on skiing sports.

In Peels case I just scabbed the front and top links together on long thin anchor bolts only to see if they'd transmit vibes, which they didn't, so when I reported this to Brit Iron and NOC-UK and INOC in '03, Dave Taylor went into production of his design he'd been sitting on untested a few years before me. The real miracle was in my haste my weak links allowed some frame to power unit twist w/o rebound yet incredible tolerant of conflicting load handling, so solved the issue elites are facing by trying to build in some flex at either end yet not break d/t being too weak. Bob Patton's robust rear link works great alone w/o the extra two helper links, but w/o the helpers can still be aware of a motorcycle with jiggles under ya instead of flying carpet w/o any flapping of fringe annoyance and feel bored if only going around fast as a roller coaster stuck on its rails, pashaw. If the cycle is too rigid then bad juju awaits, like Seeley's or robust swash plates or monocoup wonders.
 
A lot of guys back in the 70s fitted 18 inch wheels to featherbed framed bikes in place of the 19 inch wheels, to get decent rubber. Few changed the steering geometry to retain the original handling characteristics. I did it to my Triton and it became exhausting in any race on a short circuit. It always ran wide. These days the replica frames have similar geometry to a Suzuki two stroke. Interestingly the fastest Manx in Victoria which was built by McIntosh in NZ and is ridden by Cameron Donald has 19 inch wheels.
 
The most remarkable thing of all about Peel was her low effort to control from just plodding along to skipping and jumping, in which states got even easier, not at all like all the other cycles that get harder and harder to control trying for some thrills. Seriously when the bike just gets easier to control and more responsive to less effort its simply invites you into wonderful memorable G's forces. The fastest most secure harshest delicate control states Peel thrust me into was on 56 PSI rear and 54 PSI front and felt like ice skates whose dull edges had been sharpened up to slice deeper harder securer. Ms Peel is un-like anything else and resolves essentially all mystery of all elements playing together so confusingly in all others. You try to even go over 45 lbs and see what it feels like on a poor over rigid stumble bumble or floppy eared Commando and think about Ms Peel afterwards. If works out as planned might could sell tickets to ride her someday as that controllable by novices. They'd be expensive of course but then what's it worth to some to dust off jet fighers with a freaking prop biplane?

Thanks Alan for some back up on skinny tires effectiveness. I too put on 18" rear for tire selection and glad to find only 1/2" or less OD from good ole 19". My time testing balloon tires makes me feel like on a scooter twitching out of control. Oh i got handy enough on em to take on anyone in public which then made me take corner school before going rather faster on them and was amazed and pleased as everyone else in the world that depends on them, until I let Ms Peels hair out for another shock of my life I'll never get over. Main reason for balloon tires is heat spreading not all that much more traction upright. Exhaust heat and tire heat will be Peel's main limiting factors to stay ahead. I am seriously in a hunt for a rim to fit a sports car tire to put on Ms Peel not a curve ball throwing m/c profile back there. Only reason I think elites ain't done so already is the only ones on the dark side so far are lean limited baggers. That is a non issue in my sweetie pie Commando that loves the tire conflicted handling that so upsets everyone else's thrills in the saddle. If too stable you get stuck in a rut don't ya know. I do not use the lines seen in most elite racers, at least up to the speeds I could test but when the traction gets light Ms Peel really comes into her own.
 
It would seem a truism that if we could reduce the weight of our wheels to zero, then we would lose all gyroscopic precession effect and then lose stability.

It's just that the cast "wagon wheels" that came on those Yamahas could double as boat anchors. Those gyros were too effective.
 
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