What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

Staytite

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I do the large plug up with a new solid copper gasket/washer with Blue Hylomar on the gasket
and the first bit of the thread using a big socket. Then do the magnetic drain plug up with a ring
spanner, again with a solid copper washer and similar with Blue Hylomar. I like the thread locking
properties of Blue Hylomar and it can be tweaked tighter if need be as the

Blue Hylomar does not set hard. I find the smaller drain plug can be removed with a spanner
without disturbing the large plug. Allow oil to drain, inspect and put back in oil tank. Clean
and replace small drain plug with new copper washer and Blue Hylomar.

Blue Hylomar is resistant to petrol and oil and needs Acetone (Nail varnish remover - Don't
tell your wife:oops:) or similar to clean it off.
 

Mart UK

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I haven't used any sealing compounds and re-use the crush washer without any leaks. I have that large spanner, which was included when I invested in a Norton tool kit. The new sump filter part is the same bolt head size as the original sump filter plug, so I used it to remove the original and put on the new one. I still clean out the sump filter each oil change, using that spanner. I've found once the sump filter is nipped up into the crankcase, you can remove the smaller drain bolt without loosening the main filter assembly, no need to hold it with the spanner. Being much smaller, undoing the drain bolt uses insufficient torque to affect the main assembly.
 
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I too looked at this for the P11, I'd guess the spanner is to stop the large plug turning as you undo the small one, something not achievable with a socket/box wrench perhaps?
Re : Perhaps ? , The huge surface area of the big nut would hold it and likely over ride any smaller forces applied to turning out the small magnetic drain screw. I would think .
 
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Re : Perhaps ? , The huge surface area of the big nut would hold it and likely over ride any smaller forces applied to turning out the small magnetic drain screw. I would think .
Possibly, and according to Mart's experience, probably too...
Have to admit though, the old woman in me (apologies for blatant sexism) would be tweaking that big one every time I moved the tiddler, 'just in case' :)
 

Mart UK

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Possibly, old woman with belt and braces... :)

I'll check mine's still tight tomorrow.
 
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Staytite

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I have had problems with crush washers on several occasions in the past 40 years
and no longer trust them for use anywhere (anybody like a pot of unused ones?) I found
loose items on several bikes over the years and a couple of very loose sump nuts. I
changed to use solid copper washers and Blue Hylomar and have had no issues. I am
also a fan of Dowty washers, but not tried them on the sump.

"can remove the smaller drain bolt without loosening the main filter assembly, no need
to hold it with the spanner. Being much smaller, undoing the drain bolt uses insufficient
torque to affect the main assembly.
" Totally agree
 

Starvingphotog

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I haven't done a thing with it since it started getting cold. I decided to leave it in the icy cold garage this year since I'm finishing the room that it used to sit in over our Michigan winter. I just drained the fuel and left the cap cracked to vent it. I left the fresh oil in the tank to wet sump over the months to come. I was thinking that I should fog the pistons to keep it from rusting in the combustion area. Other than that it's sitting in the chock with a bedsheet, in the garage beside my '67 MG. I feel kinda sad that it's all cold and alone out there, and not inside where it's warm. I might also wipe it down some with an oily rag to get the chrome bits.
 

Mart UK

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Warmer day today, after a dry cold snap here. Despite adding vents to my garage, my bikes were dripping with condensation. Dried them off and fogged the bare metal with WD. Hopefully I'll get a ride in before Christmas. Then a good wash down, blow dry and the full ACF treatment. Winter is too long!
 
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Getting chillier here. Forecast is for temps to drop to -15 C. Just watched the forecast on tv…….wind chill -23 deg C!!!
Holy brass monkeys Batman!!
Hoping to get out for at least one ride this week while not toooooo cold.
Today washed out the new steel gas tank in preparation to take it, side panels and new transfers for painting tomorrow. Did a leak check last week and tank seemed fine. Excited to get it done and on the bike so to get rid of the grp worries.
 

YING

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Getting chillier here. Forecast is for temps to drop to -15 C. Just watched the forecast on tv…….wind chill -23 deg C!!!
Holy brass monkeys Batman!!
Hoping to get out for at least one ride this week while not toooooo cold.
Today washed out the new steel gas tank in preparation to take it, side panels and new transfers for painting tomorrow. Did a leak check last week and tank seemed fine. Excited to get it done and on the bike so to get rid of the grp worries.
WINTER SUCKS !
 

Starvingphotog

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I tend to want to agree with you Mike! Some days I really miss living in NC where it's sunny 360 days of the year and just beautiful all around. Maybe one day I'll move back there. Lots and lots of quiet twisty back roads and ideal weather in abundance for cycling.
 

Lineslinger

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I need to get to the shop and winterize. I keep going hunting while hoping for a warm day or two for riding but "it ain't gonna' happen" me thinks.
Big storm on the way...temps below zero with 20mph + winds.
Not good riding weather.
 

Jdub

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Dope slap day: Opened my package of double connectors (British Wiring C312) only to find they are all common, not isolated. Poking around I am not finding double connector that are isolated for sale. That would neaten things up but I suppose two singles zipped together will do.
 

L.A.B.

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Poking around I am not finding double connector that are isolated for sale.

As far as I'm aware there isn't a Lucas bullet type double-isolated connector.

3 and 5-way are isolated.
 
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lower fork bushes: as part of overhauling a set of forks, one lower bush would not turn when in position, so got it off using a wooden jawed vice, then slightly filed back very bottom of stanchion, and 400/600 wet and dry on stanchion bearing surface,and finally used very small amount of fine grinding paste to ease the fit between bush and stanchion. Vg result!
 

Fast Eddie

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lower fork bushes: as part of overhauling a set of forks, one lower bush would not turn when in position, so got it off using a wooden jawed vice, then slightly filed back very bottom of stanchion, and 400/600 wet and dry on stanchion bearing surface,and finally used very small amount of fine grinding paste to ease the fit between bush and stanchion. Vg result!
Does the bush need to turn on the stanchion ?
 
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