Starting sequence

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So what do I do with the wires that were connected to the old Lucas unit? Im thinking I should cap them and forget them?

If you disconnect the rectifier pair of green/yellow and white/green wires from the stator output double bullet connectors as I mentioned above, then the rectifier wires should be "dead" anyway.[/quote}

speirmoor said:
Also do I even need the capicitor now? If not is removal as simple as capping its wires also?
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Yes, you can disconnect the 2MC capacitor, but connect all brown/blue wires together don't cap them.
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Where would the brown/ blue pair from the rectifier go?

Should it be connected with the brown/blue from the 2MC capacitor?

I apologize for jumping into this thread, but I didn't want to start a new thread when all the pertinent information I need is right here.
I'm going through the exact same situation, three phase with Podtronics.

Oh, one other small detail, I have an early MarkIII with the old style assimilator.

Thanks.
 
2Wheels said:
Where would the brown/ blue pair from the rectifier go?
Should it be connected with the brown/blue from the 2MC capacitor?
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One of the double brown/blue wires that connects into the single rectifier spade already goes to the 2MC (and the other one goes to the battery) so the brown/blue rectifier connector can either be taped up or used as the negative wire connection (for positive earth/ground) of a reg./rec. unit such as the Podtronics.
 
L.A.B. said:
2Wheels said:
Where would the brown/ blue pair from the rectifier go?
Should it be connected with the brown/blue from the 2MC capacitor?
Click to expand...

One of the double brown/blue wires that connects into the single rectifier spade already goes to the 2MC (and the other one goes to the battery) so the brown/blue rectifier connector can either be taped up or used as the negative wire connection (for positive earth/ground) of a reg./rec. unit such as the Podtronic.
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Thanks a million L.A.B., I think you just put me back on the road!
 
Ok Im getting there.Its all making sense now thanks to the forum help.I spent three hours on Saturday on the wiring and just fell in love with the bike all over again.It will be finished this week I hope.Here is the assimilator in its current state but I think I may lay it flat like the podronics unit but I like the patina of the old wiring.Anyway two things I was wondering on is what is the asimilator actually? Is it a relay or switch of some sort? The other is what do you use for wire terminations.At work we use wire nuts but they just look wrong on a motorcycle.maybe I'll just heatshrink them but what other options are there?
Starting sequence

Starting sequence
 
speirmoor said:
I was wondering on is what is the asimilator actually?
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When the assimilator (non-Canadian type) senses alternator AC output has reached a certain level, it interrupts the "Ignition" warning light circuit and the bulb goes out, when it senses ouput has dropped below a certain level it switches the circuit back on again, so basically, it's an electronic (MkIII type) sensor switch!
 
speirmoor said:
Ok more issues. Hooked up podronics unit and installed new battery .There were two wires of each color type on each tap on the old rectifier. I capped the wires going to the zeners. There were two wires on the ignition tap of the old rectifier (same color brown/blue) so I left them together and added the black wire of the podronics to them.now the red ignition light is coming on at idle unless it's revved up a bit it goes out. It's more apparent when the headlight is on. Also the battery charger goes straight to fault when plugged in. What did I do wrong?
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Hi,

You did not do anything wrong. As I told you previously, that problem is YOUR ASSIMILATOR. Change it for a new one (solid state) and that problem is solved. Mine did the same thing. Could not charge the battery, red light on etc and one day, smoke from insulation around the assimilator!!! It was very hot! I changed it and everything was fine. I have a Podtronic and a three phase alternator
 
Ok new assimilator installed symptoms still persist.ignition light is still on till above 2k rpm. I put my multimeter on the alternator leads and measured 11-12v @ 2k rpm. I can't measure at idle because it won't maintain idle speed but I have noticed that when I let go of the throttle the voltage drops between 5-8v. Does anyone know what the voltage should be at idle?
 
pvisseriii said:
4/27/2010 Put a meter on the battery and rev to see output from stator. If it is not moviing up to 13 or 14 volts dc, your stator may on it's way out or your lead wires may be compromised.

If a bad stator is the issue, get the hi output stator and a Pedtronics unit. You will then have ample charge at idle, even with the lights on.
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Put you lead on the battery, You should have 12vdc + at idle and 13vdc to 15vdc at 2000 rpm and above.
Did you change out your stator yet.
 
Ok I'll try the leads on the battery tomorrow.The stator is the only thing I havent changed yet .Is there one that you recommend? I have the 200w podronics unit.
 
speirmoor said:
Ok I'll try the leads on the battery tomorrow.The stator is the only thing I havent changed yet .Is there one that you recommend? I have the 200w podronics unit.
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Because you have a Mark III, your stock stator is a 180 watt unit. I think with your updated electronics this would be an adaquate replacement IF NEEDED. I do not know if it is safe to assume that your current stator is stock without going through more freakin testing. I'm sure that does not sound appealing to you at this point.
Anyhow, a minimum 180watt unit should be had. 200watt is good too. Find the best price.
If this is your direction, get some 10 thou shim stock and slide it in between the stator and the rotor at the 3 studs before tightening. Many a new stators have been destroyed by missing this tolerance. When done, verify 10 thou all around.
 
Ok put the meter on today and heres what I found. Tach pic first and corresponding voltage pic following.Let me know if all looks in order?
Starting sequence

Starting sequence

Starting sequence

Starting sequence

Starting sequence

Starting sequence
 
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