Starting sequence

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Ok I put the meter on the battery before starting and read 12v.Bike started up and voltage remained @12v rising to 13v when the engine was revved to 2000rpm.I tried all the electrical lights,indicators and still 12v.The only thing that was the horn when activated voltage dropped to 11v.The horn isnt working correctly and needs to be replaced but Im getting 12v for it when I intercept its connectors on the harness .Other than the horn are the other voltages normal?
 
If by "12" you mean 12.0 or thereabouts, that's fairly low. Ought to be about 12.8 or higher I should think.

Try cranking the starter while you check the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's dropping substantially, your battery needs replacing.
 
Hi,

I think it is the ASSIMILATOR. I had a similar situation where I couldn't charge my battery on the bike. It was a faulty assimilator (30 years old!) I changed it for a solid state one (same look, same format) and problem solved!
 
BrianK said:
If by "12" you mean 12.0 or thereabouts, that's fairly low. Ought to be about 12.8 or higher I should think.

Try cranking the starter while you check the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's dropping substantially, your battery needs replacing.
The starter isnt engaging mechanically (havent got to that issue yet) but it does spin. I'll try it and see what the voltage drop is if any.
SGOUD said:
Hi,

I think it is the ASSIMILATOR. I had a similar situation where I couldn't charge my battery on the bike. It was a faulty assimilator (30 years old!) I changed it for a solid state one (same look, same format) and problem solved!
I'm expecting my podronics rectifier later this week so will the assimilator still be required?
 
speirmoor said:
I'm expecting my podronics rectifier later this week so will the assimilator still be required?
This is simply a sensor for a dummy light to tell you if your system is charging or not. I believe that before the Peds units and the like, the stator worked full out and the zener would dump the surplus which sort of made the assimulator sensable. With the peds unit, the stator only works as hard as it needs to, hence extending the life and effenciency of the stator.

At this point I would suspend testing until the Pedtronics unit is in place and the assimulator, the regulator and the zener is out of the system.

To answer your question, my lights on the lamp shell are, red lamp left to indicate left turn, green lamp right to indicate right turn and yellow in the middle to show high beam. Dummy lights for dummies like me who forget the turn signal all the freakin time. I still forget them, but this helps.

With your electical system updated and the load releaved from the stator the assimulator can go in the ever growing spares bin. Purests may cringe a little.

Your only issue remaining is to tell how well you stator is generating. 13v at 2000rpm is ok but should jump to a little over 14v or so at 2500rpm and above, but as mentioned before, save some effort and wait for the Peds unit.

And if I may add, the capacitor/battery eliminator (the other blue thingy by the battery), if you have one, is also a waist of resources and is rumoured to raise havic with EI boxes. Just not needed any more. Purests may cringe a little.

These things I say are from experience and not just heresay and although I speak of my 750, this info also applies to the MKIII in this regard. Some may agree, some may not.
 
ok here is where I am so far.While scouting out a place to mount the podronics unit I discovered where all the oil residue in the area is coming from.The oil line is getting cut by the base of the filter box.
Starting sequence

thats not so bad I can order another one but its a relief i found it now.which oil line is it does anyone know?


Anyway moving on i was thinking of mounting the podronics unit here where the assimilator used to be.
Starting sequence


here are my questions regarding the install and the instructions
1)"Disconnect the ground wire from you battery.Observe if your system is positive or negative earth"
easy enough its positive earth
2) 'locate and remove the zener diode.ypu will no longer need it.(hint its gold colored)
I have two. One on each side of the swingarm.can I leave them there for asthetics and cap the wires where they originate?
3) "Locate and remove the selenium rectifier.you will no longer need it either"
easy peasy
4) "There should be three wires connected to the rectifier.The green/white and green/yellow go to the alternator stator.the "hot" wire is usually brown/white.This goes to the hot side of the battery"
My hot wire is brown/purple not an issue I guess just confirming.The other wires are the same

What should I use to connect the wires easily? will crimp connectors do the job ?

My last question is what to do with the assimilator.Am I correct in saying it will no longer be required?
 
speirmoor said:
The oil return line is getting cut by the base of the filter box.



If that's the oil return line, then it is certainly routed incorrectly? Could that actually be the breather pipe? [Edit] In fact, I can see from the second photo that it is the breather pipe.


speirmoor said:
2) 'locate and remove the zener diode.ypu will no longer need it.(hint its gold colored)
I have two. One on each side of the swingarm.can I leave them there for asthetics and cap the wires where they originate?

Yes, certainly.


speirmoor said:
3) "Locate and remove the selenium rectifier.you will no longer need it either"
easy peasy

Maybe not quite that easy, as Lucas gave up on selenium rectifiers in the early 60's,-so "locate and remove the silicon rectifier" instead! :wink:



speirmoor said:
4) "There should be three wires connected to the rectifier.The green/white and green/yellow go to the alternator stator.



Actually the "green/white" should be white/green (white with green tracer) wire, otherwise yes, correct.


speirmoor said:
the "hot" wire is usually brown/white.This goes to the hot side of the battery"
My hot wire is brown/purple not an issue I guess just confirming



That wire should in fact be brown/blue? "Brown/white" is for pre-'71 models.


speirmoor said:
What should I use to connect the wires easily? will crimp connectors do the job ?



Provided you make a proper job of it, then yes, although no doubt others will recommend you solder them?



speirmoor said:
My last question is what to do with the assimilator.Am I correct in saying it will no longer be required?


You would lose the red charge warning lamp if you disconnect the assimilator?
I'm not sure if the Podtronics unit actually requires disconnection of the assimilator to function or not?
 
Ok Im sure you are correct its the oil breather too so I edited my original post.
 
swooshdave said:
speirmoor said:
Is it still possible to buy the original bullet connectors or similar.The only ones I found close were these ones here
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprod...&agCode=0474&agName=Bullet+Connectors+&+Tools
kinda expensive so I was wondering is their anything close to be got in the US?

yes. BritIsh wiring has them.

CNW sells marine grade bullets and spade connectors and you can get the same ones from McMaster-Carr (just search for heat-shrink insulated snap-plug terminals)

Jean
 
Ok more issues. Hooked up podronics unit and installed new battery .There were two wires of each color type on each tap on the old rectifier. I capped the wires going to the zeners. There were two wires on the ignition tap of the old rectifier (same color brown/blue) so I left them together and added the black wire of the podronics to them.now the red ignition light is coming on at idle unless it's revved up a bit it goes out. It's more apparent when the headlight is on. Also the battery charger goes straight to fault when plugged in. What did I do wrong?
 
speirmoor said:
Ok more issues. Hooked up podronics unit and installed new battery .There were two wires of each color type on each tap on the old rectifier. I capped the wires going to the zeners. There were two wires on the ignition tap of the old rectifier (same color brown/blue) so I left them together and added the black wire of the podronics to them.now the red ignition light is coming on at idle unless it's revved up a bit it goes out. It's more apparent when the headlight is on. Also the battery charger goes straight to fault when plugged in. What did I do wrong?

Did you get rid of the rectifier? Do not over compicate this, but you must give up the old stuff on an emotional level.
To keep it simple, just in case I am not following you, the red wire on peds unit goes the ground on battery (positive) and the black goes to the output terminal on the ignition switch. I believe that if you prefer, with ever brown and blue wire from the rectifie goes to the ignition output, you can hook the black wire from the peds unit to it and terminate all others.

How are you hooking up the battery charger? Positive to positive, negative to negative is how it should. Just because the bike is positive ground doesn't mean you hook the charger backwards.
 
Rectifier is in the bin.Maybe I didnt explain myself well but I'll try again.The old rectifier had (round black thingy says lucas) three spade type terminals.On one terminal was a connector with two green/yellow wires.On the other terminal same with two green/white wires and on the other terminal were two brown/blue wires.one of the green/yellow and one of the green/white wires went to the Zeners so I capped them and added one yellow wire from the podronics unit to each remaining green/yellow and green/white wires.The brown/blue wires I left joined together and added the black wire to them.The red to the battery.
Any thoughts?
 
That seems a liitle round about way ratner than hooking the 2 wires from the stator directly to the yellow wires on the peds unit. This is how it should be. Red to the + side of the battery and black to output of ignition switch. Sorry to beat this to death, but I think it is important not to use old wiring from the obsolete items like the brown/blue wires. It may be working, but you do not want to take the chance of feeding back in to the system.

What about the battery charging thing?

Do you have a dc voltage tester? Check your voltages at 1000, 1500, 2000 2500 and 3000 rpm.
 
speirmoor said:
Also the battery charger goes straight to fault when plugged in.



Does the charger continue to show a fault if.....

1. ...the fuse is removed?

2. ...the ground wire is disconnected from the 2MC capacitor?

3. ...the two AC wires are disconnected from the assimilator unit?



pvisseriii said:
black to output of ignition switch.

but I think it is important not to use old wiring from the obsolete items like the brown/blue wires. It may be working, but you do not want to take the chance of feeding back in to the system.


I agree that it would be better to connect the Podtronics yellow wires directly to the stator output wires (although the assimilator wires need to be added if the assimilator is still going to be used?) however, I can't see any real need to connect the black (negative) Podtronics wire to the ignition switch output (white) wire in preference to the battery feed wire?

Assimilator?

speirmoor,

According to your photo, the MkIII type black plastic solid state assimilator doesn't appear to be fitted in it's usual position on the battery tray? So where is it fitted, or I believe some early MkIII's had a "silver can" assimilator so does it have one of those?
 
L.A.B. said:
I agree that it would be better to connect the Podtronics yellow wires directly to the stator output wires (although the assimilator wires need to be added if the assimilator is still going to be used?) however, I can't see any real need to connect the black (negative) Podtronics wire to the ignition switch output (white) wire in preference to the battery feed wire?
I agree
 
L.A.B. said:
speirmoor,

According to your photo, the MkIII type black plastic solid state assimilator doesn't appear to be fitted in it's usual position on the battery tray? So where is it fitted, or I believe some early MkIII's had a "silver can" assimilator so does it have one of those?

its going to be tomorrow before I get back to troubleshooting this but now I have somewhere to start.
The assimilator (Black plastic type and all original wires intact ,6 If I remember correctly) is now relocated in front of the podronics unit.I will post pics as soon as I can.

So I find the alternator wires and hook the yellow ones to them.
The red wire goes straight to the battery+ and the black(battery - ) too to make things easy.
So what do I do with the wires that were connected to the old Lucas unit? Im thinking I should cap them and forget them?

Also do I even need the capicitor now? If not is removal as simple as capping its wires also?
 
speirmoor said:
So I find the alternator wires and hook the yellow ones to them.

Yes, if you follow the wires from the stator, you should find that each stator wire goes to a double bullet connetor with two additional wires of the same colour into each?
So you can disconnect the rectifier green/yellow and white/green wires, but you need to keep the assimilator green/yellow and white/green wires connected.



speirmoor said:
So what do I do with the wires that were connected to the old Lucas unit? Im thinking I should cap them and forget them?

If you disconnect the rectifier pair of green/yellow and white/green wires from the stator output double bullet connectors as I mentioned above, then the rectifier wires should be "dead" anyway.

speirmoor said:
Also do I even need the capicitor now? If not is removal as simple as capping its wires also?

Yes, you can disconnect the 2MC capacitor, but connect all brown/blue wires together don't cap them.
 
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