starting sequence

OP,
To help clarify, the first post he reported the symptom as: "hard to start cold after you worked on the carburetor."

Is that accurate?
It was starting & running fine before?

Has this issue been solved?
 
Head said:
Hi mate I did read it , when she was at max revs she was 2 1/4 turns, 3 or 4 more lads running 260 mains and 40 pilot, I had 38 in her seemed to starve her had 35 in too same, did u listen to video ? , she is very close starts first kick when warm or hot, will try her cold in morning , fitted 2 denso iridium plugs too might try the ngk back in her, I think she is very close, she can actually idle at very low rev I keep it at 1100
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Mikuni Pilot jets come in numbers including #35, #37.5 and #40. Not as far as I know, #38!

Anyhow, I know I got flack before for saying I thought the pilot jet you were using seemed too large. The 2 1/4 turns suggests I may have been right, but hey ho.

Do remember that if you try another pilot jet you need to go through the air screw setting again. A setting lower than one turn out will suggest it is too small!

I would be trying a #37.5 again, getting the air screw setting sorted and If I thought there were still problems I would be looking more at needle jet size and needle location and also checking the slide cut out number. You don't mention those settings, just idle and main jet. Which only affect idle and over 3/4 throttle. You may need to get a better set up in the middle throttle openings.

BTW, I am being careful not to bang on about the air jet again :rolleyes:
 
concours said:
OP,
To help clarify, the first post he reported the symptom as: "hard to start cold after you worked on the carburetor."

Is that accurate?
It was starting & running fine before?

Has this issue been solved?
Click to expand...
hi mate, before i went near carb she started first kick hot or cold, when cold even a week later with choke and no throttle she started first kick ,

i then decided to clean the carbs when i discovered the pilot jet was welded stuck so had to gouge it out and could not read what size it was originally and from being on here most said 260 mains which i had in and 40 pilots, so i just ent with the pilots, i cleaned the carb out a vm34 have done this before without issue did not change any other settings on carb,just refitted new pilot and mains put it back together and now it takes 4 or 5 kicks to start wont start with choke only starts when i use little bit of throttle then i have to feed the choke every few seconds until she runs on her own steam

maybe i missed some debrie or might have blocked passage now ,im sort of lost , i bought the kit for looking through the sparkplug to set air screw correctly i should have it next week, sorry for long txt but i guess i should have left it alone
 
SteveA said:
Mikuni Pilot jets come in numbers including #35, #37.5 and #40. Not as far as I know, #38!

Anyhow, I know I got flack before for saying I thought the pilot jet you were using seemed too large. The 2 1/4 turns suggests I may have been right, but hey ho.

Do remember that if you try another pilot jet you need to go through the air screw setting again. A setting lower than one turn out will suggest it is too small!

I would be trying a #37.5 again, getting the air screw setting sorted and If I thought there were still problems I would be looking more at needle jet size and needle location and also checking the slide cut out number. You don't mention those settings, just idle and main jet. Which only affect idle and over 3/4 throttle. You may need to get a better set up in the middle throttle openings.

BTW, I am being careful not to bang on about the air jet again :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
thanks Steve, as it was working 100% before i changed the pilot which i gouged out the old so dont know what it was in size , so only dieerence is pilot rest of carb was not touched , i will fit back in 37.5 later, she wont start on choke now when cold, 3 or 4 kicks with choke then off choke and 1 or 2 kicks with 1/8 throttle , then i have to use choke on and off to keep her going until she warms up, when warm she starts first kick
 
Didn’t get chance to do anything this evening only start her 2 kicks with full choke no start then no choke 1/8 throttle she fired up first kick had to play with choke until she cleared herself then she was good ticks over perfectly , will strip carb again when I get the colour tuner early next week, just a thought I have electronic ignition fitted would timing go out at all ?
 
What Ei, some have idle stabilization which means you need a colortune to set the idle, if you try to use the normal method as the revs drop as the mixture goes out of the ideal the idle stabilization kicks in and increases the revs confusing the tuning process.
 
kommando said:
What Ei, some have idle stabilization which means you need a colortune to set the idle, if you try to use the normal method as the revs drop as the mixture goes out of the ideal the idle stabilization kicks in and increases the revs confusing the tuning process.
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Thanks mate not sure what EI will check tomorrow, will wait until I get colour tune thanks again buddy
 
Head said:
i will do it later Shane , but i doubt its the issue, thanks mo chara
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Unless it's a Tri-Spark Classic Twin then there would normally be an EI 'box' in the vicinity of, and connected to, the ignition coils which should have the make and type on it.
 
L.A.B. said:
Unless it's a Tri-Spark Classic Twin then there would normally be an EI 'box' in the vicinity of, and connected to, the ignition coils which should have the make and type on it.
Click to expand...
i have a boyer ignition fitted
 
KiwiShane said:
The boyer MK IV is meant to be a bit better than the MK III
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never had an issue with it so far dont know what model boyer it is, i have no kick back, and i did strobe her middle of last year and its been perfect since
 
Head said:
never had an issue with it so far dont know what model boyer it is, i have no kick back, and i did strobe her middle of last year and its been perfect since
Click to expand...
The black box is marked
The only reason I replaced my ignition box was because of broken wires the mkiii did kick back if the battery was low...other than that they have been good to me
 
Head said:
never had an issue with it so far dont know what model boyer it is, i have no kick back, and i did strobe her middle of last year and its been perfect since
Click to expand...
A simple issue that affects all Boyers is loose or corroded connectors at the pickup plate. Easily checked and (temporarily) fixed.

Long term fix is to change the pickup wiring end to end, to a more reliable set up than the cheapo crimps, or fit a Pazon which has screw down connections!

I agree with you this probably isn't your problem because the bike settles when warm, but one day, it probably will be! :rolleyes:
 
There are three Boyers identified by the colour of the box, analoque MK3 and MK4 is black, micro digital is red and there is also a blue box micro power with special coils. The black does not have idle stabilisation, red and blue do have idle stabilisation.
 
SteveA said:
A simple issue that affects all Boyers is loose or corroded connectors at the pickup plate. Easily checked and (temporarily) fixed.

Long term fix is to change the pickup wiring end to end, to a more reliable set up than the cheapo crimps, or fit a Pazon which has screw down connections!

I agree with you this probably isn't your problem because the bike settles when warm, but one day, it probably will be! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
kommando said:
There are three Boyers identified by the colour of the box, analoque MK3 and MK4 is black, micro digital is red and there is also a blue box micro power with special coils. The black does not have idle stabilisation, red and blue do have idle stabilisation.
Click to expand...
Great info will check it out tomorrow buddy again I thank u for all the help with this auld girl
 
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