I would think you would want the 80 ft lb torque on the axle shaft. as I said, I have .010 clearance between the two.New drive and top hat bought through Old Britts, I'm sure they're the current parts from AN. Top hat installed correctly, tangs are engaged. Speedo works perfectly. The old one was rubbing on the hub cover plate, so I took care not to over tighten the axle this time. Maybe I should revisit that.
80 ft lb torque on the axle shaft
What's the best torque setting when using the one piece axle?80 on the drive side is OK, it is all steel on this brake side... but 80 on the speedo side is what deforms the pot metal of the speedo housing. I'd start at 40 and go up 5 at a time.
FWIW even the steel spacer on the LH side of the wheel will imprint on the hardened bearing....I now make my own and harden them once I tested AN spacers and found they were mush soft steel.
What's the best torque setting when using the one piece axle?
80 on the drive side is OK, it is all steel on this brake side... but 80 on the speedo side is what deforms the pot metal of the speedo housing. I'd start at 40 and go up 5 at a time.
FWIW even the steel spacer on the LH side of the wheel will imprint on the hardened bearing....I now make my own and harden them once I tested AN spacers and found they were mush soft steel.
A little science is an over the top tremendous effort for some folks. Measure the over all height before installation, use for a while, remove the wheel and reinstall retorque after a few time you might be surprised to find the speedo is now dragging on the cover. remeasure the height? It will have grown... bet you a beer. How and why else does my box full of warped speedo's get like that? you can SEE the crushed and deformed metal inside the speedo body....not trying to be argumentative and by no means an expert - have limited experience wrenching on these machines - 80 ft.lbs. - only going by torque values as defined by old britts - https://www.oldbritts.com/n_torq.html . I didn't think you would be applying torque to the pot metal housing, but torque is being applied from the axle shaft, thru a series of steel spacers, one being that top-hat crush thing - ??? - anyway, torqued mine to 80 w/ no issues so far. just sayin....
again, not trying to be argumentative (since I don't know enough about this to argue the point). sorry....A little science is an over the top tremendous effort for some folks. Measure the over all height before installation, use for a while, remove the wheel and reinstall retorque after a few time you might be surprised to find the speedo is now dragging on the cover. remeasure the height? It will have grown... bet you a beer. How and why else does my box full of warped speedo's get like that? you can SEE the crushed and deformed metal inside the speedo body....
80ft/lb
Every time I hear "old britts" I cringe...nice guy, buy parts...good guy
"tech" not my hero...
Grade 8/ Possible but I doubt it. I quit hardness testing norton components years ago. The heads have great OEM valve seats, some cams are hard and some are mush.I would think the axle would be at least a grade 8
just a little info - new AN top hat "crush" spacer - .309" -- original spacer, .318" - puzzled. if anything, I would have thought the original part would be dimensionally less than the replacement. not scientific though, since I don't know the original and replacement design dimensions w/ tolerance. just by those dimensions, i'm thinking they don't "crush."I have never notice any deformation of the steel top hat. So I am not sure what crush acadian is referring to . However , every one of the dead speedo drives has deformations mostly on the inside where the pot metal contacts the inside steel "spacer".
Grade 8/ Possible but I doubt it. I quit hardness testing norton components years ago. The heads have great OEM valve seats, some cams are hard and some are mush.
That worked for me.It is common for Speedo drives to deform with the center bulging outboard. Why this happens, I do not know. It happened to my original Speedo drive, and I do know that I never over torgued the axle.
When the drive bulges outboard, it causes the inner surface of the drive to move nearer, and possibly rub on the cover of the wheel hub (that polished thin metal cover with the three plugs for the bolt up wheels). In my case, the cover was gouged to destruction.
Bulged Speedo drives can be salvaged. Warm the pot metal and squeeze it with a vise, using a socket of proper diameter to press on the center. The thickness of a speedo drive should be approx. 0.80 inches without any top hat bushing.
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