Clutch Cable Routing

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Are you sure it's only the outer cover?

No...... i know the casing is correct as its stamped with corresponding engine number but the rest is anyone's guess ....
Now i am worried... what else could potentially be different & how will i be able to find out??
 
i know the casing is correct as its stamped with corresponding engine number but the rest is anyone's guess ....
Now i am worried... what else could potentially be different & how will i be able to find out??

As the casing is the Commando type (narrow top lug) then there's probably nothing to worry about. (Edit: Except for the layshaft drive-side bearing if it hasn't been checked/changed, that is.)
 
As lab says I wouldn't worry too much
Strangely I have what I believe is a Norton atlas gearbox that is fitted with a commando type outer cover
I bought it like this 20 odd years ago and only recently noticed it had the cable exiting as a commando (were any pre commando gearboxes like this?)
I intend to use it on a commando I have fitted a commando output shaft to it
The only other differences I can see are the Kickstarter return spring location
And the width of the gearbox casing at the top
 
Thanks Les
I have overhauled the complete box and replaced all the bearings & bushings to name a few.
The rebuild set up/ bearing & shaft shimming was straight forward with no issues experienced.
and with the internal operating lever angle set, the rebuild was text book
I will purchase the correct cover from AN on Friday, so here's hoping
 
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In the photo by Joe Czech in post 6 above there seems to be a spacer on the cluth cable
as it enters the outer gearbox cover?
My 850 does not have such a spacer and I cannot see one in the parts book.
Am I missing something ?
 
In the photo by Joe Czech in post 6 above there seems to be a spacer on the cluth cable
as it enters the outer gearbox cover?
My 850 does not have such a spacer and I cannot see one in the parts book.
Am I missing something ?

Not missing anything. As was stated, it turns out the outer cover is from a pre-commando gearbox which would have had a
cable adjuster where it enters the outer cover.
 
Only my brains that are missing then:D

It would be nice to have a top hat spacer to reduce the wear in the outer cover
caused by the metal end on the clutch cable outer.

Not sure I'll need one in my lifetime:)

Have a good New Year one and all
 
In the photo by Joe Czech in post 6 above there seems to be a spacer on the cluth cable
as it enters the outer gearbox cover?
My 850 does not have such a spacer and I cannot see one in the parts book.
Am I missing something ?
not missing anything. when I bought the bike, the PO had installed a (CNW) hydraulic clutch assembly. part of the installation was to drill out the clutch cable hole, oversized, for a clutch slave cylinder, tube hose adapter. the resulting oversized hole did not allow going back to a control cable clutch configuration, and reuse a cable. I had several options - weld the hole closed and redrill, get a new case, or fab some sort of adapter. I found that a flanged drill bushing was a perfect fix - no muss, no fuss, minimal work and effort. had to re-drill the case for the 5/16" O.D. bushing, but it seems to have solved the problem. the bushing was a bit pricey, but when I factored in everything, it was a cheap fix. when I priced a new case, damn near went into sticker shock. :D

Clutch Cable Routing
 
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Why didn't you keep that on the bike?

the CNW (Brembo) master cylinder/control lever mechanism, differed from the Lockheed front brake master cylinder - it was an apples and oranges look. also, the Brembo assembly did not allow for use of the stock handlebar switch assembly, thus it was causing wiring issues, mostly the high beam/low beam circuit and horn. the PO tore into the wiring and made a mess out of things trying to rewire the bike - he was trying to have the headlight on all the time, high beam controlled by the headlight housing switch, and adding an aux horn switch. I looked into what it would cost to keep and re-configure the front brake and hydraulic clutch assemblies - both mechanically and electrically, and it made more sense to me to go back to stock and the control cable clutch. I know the hydraulic clutch is better technology, but I figured the brits used cables from day one until they went out of business, so for what I need, the original cable design will suffice.
 
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