solder pot

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seattle##gs

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After 15 years my Flanders solder pot ...heating element and cord...have given up the ghost. Replacements from Flanders total $150. Ebay has many new solder pots to offer at approx $25 or slightly more which makes them much more attractive. However, I have questions:

A) are these up to the job of soldering on cable ends?
B) most specify lead free solder. I have used 50/50 for years with excellent results and I would like to continue with a known, good solder. Has any one used lead free solder on cables with excellent results?
C) Is there any reason that I cannot use 50/50 in a solder pot that specifies lead free?
D) If I buy this for $25 is this just another case of getting what I pay for?
 
I can't offer any opinion re soldering pots - I have soldered my cable ends using a deep metal bottle cap, solder, and a propane torch! :)

But I don't like lead free solder at all. I find that it has a rather narrow temperature range compared to conventional solder. Admittedly virtually all my soldering is electrical, primarily restoring old tube (valve) equipment so that temp range thing probably wouldn't matter using a soldering pot. Lead free also tends to leave "whiskers" and is much rougher in appearance/texture than lead solder. Of course, you should avoid the fumes/smoke involved in any kind of soldering but one final issue I have is that with the lead-free I have tried is that the smoke from the flux seems much more irritating to the eyes.

I suspect that the warning re using lead-based solder is based on health/safety/lawyer stuff. I can't see how a solder pot would know or care what you put in it. ;)
 
I made a thick walled (12mm) steel soldering pot on the lathe, and heat it with a propane torch, the solder stays liqud for quite some time due to the heat accumulated in the steel . works well. I also use 50/50 lead/ tin material.
 
Silver solder. When fluxed properly and heated correctly it flows into voids like water.
 
seattle##gs said:
After 15 years my Flanders solder pot ...heating element and cord...have given up the ghost. Replacements from Flanders total $150. Ebay has many new solder pots to offer at approx $25 or slightly more which makes them much more attractive. However, I have questions:

A) are these up to the job of soldering on cable ends?
B) most specify lead free solder. I have used 50/50 for years with excellent results and I would like to continue with a known, good solder. Has any one used lead free solder on cables with excellent results?
C) Is there any reason that I cannot use 50/50 in a solder pot that specifies lead free?
D) If I buy this for $25 is this just another case of getting what I pay for?
Click to expand...
I use a cast iron pipe cap and heat with a propane torch.
 
RoadScholar said:
Silver solder. When fluxed properly and heated correctly it flows into voids like water.
Click to expand...

Yup.
Especially for electrical connections. Silver solder, flux and micro torch. You can solder very strong clean connections that stay on the connection without running up into the wire...with no damage/melting of insulation.
 
Lead free solder is required for compliance with RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) rules established by the EU for electronic equipment. Thus the lead free label on those solder pots. But as stated above, the solder pot doesn't care what you put in it.
 
the heavy steel pot and a propane torch is a good idea. I could take my current pot, remove the heating element and use a torch on it...didn't even think of it. Thanks.
 
seattle##gs said:
the heavy steel pot and a propane torch is a good idea. I could take my current pot, remove the heating element and use a torch on it...didn't even think of it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I fixed my old pot recently by buying a new element for a different pot on e-bay.
NOS for $9.95.
Then I took the coil out of it and installed it in the old porcelain base that fit my pot.
Works like a champ.
 
I make all my own carb, clutch and most brake cables. I use silver bearing acid core solder and a Weller Soldering gun. I also dip the end of the cable in plumbing tinning flux. It's very easy, controllable, I get perfect ends, and I'm done before the pot would be ready in most cases.

Of course, if I were mass producing them a soldering pot would be the way to go.
 
MexicoMike said:
I can't offer any opinion re soldering pots - I have soldered my cable ends using a deep metal bottle cap, solder, and a propane torch! :)

But I don't like lead free solder at all. I find that it has a rather narrow temperature range compared to conventional solder. Admittedly virtually all my soldering is electrical, primarily restoring old tube (valve) equipment so that temp range thing probably wouldn't matter using a soldering pot. Lead free also tends to leave "whiskers" and is much rougher in appearance/texture than lead solder. Of course, you should avoid the fumes/smoke involved in any kind of soldering but one final issue I have is that with the lead-free I have tried is that the smoke from the flux seems much more irritating to the eyes.

I suspect that the warning re using lead-based solder is based on health/safety/lawyer stuff. I can't see how a solder pot would know or care what you put in it. ;)
Click to expand...

Silver solder. :)

solder pot
 
So my $15 new solder pot showed up and did its job well. Only downside is that it is bigger and requires double the solder of my old one. Variable heat however.
All suggestions very good, thanks
Now, where is the best place and price for bulk cable and fittings? I have always bought from Flanders.
Nice tube amp. What is the main output tube? 5 watt?
 
seattle##gs said:
Now, where is the best place and price for bulk cable and fittings? I have always bought from Flanders.
Click to expand...

I still buy from Flanders and recently found that if you call them, they have much more than what is listed on the web site. Although it's expensive, it's way less expensive than buying ready made cables. And I got really tired of ready made cables not being the right length or not having the correct ends. That's a bigger issue with Triumph and BSA than Norton because things are usually right from AN.
 
That's why I started making cables 30 years ago. Everything was either too long or two short, both inner and outer cable.
Fact # 1 .....no matter how many fittings you own there is never enough variety.
 
seattle##gs said:
So my $15 new solder pot showed up and did its job well. Only downside is that it is bigger and requires double the solder of my old one. Variable heat however.
All suggestions very good, thanks
Now, where is the best place and price for bulk cable and fittings? I have always bought from Flanders.
Nice tube amp. What is the main output tube? 5 watt?
Click to expand...

This is a 45 amp, so about 1.5w. The reason it looks bigger is the EML 45 tube. I have a 2a3 that puts out about 3.5w and then a GM70 that does about 10w. The last two get pretty loud with 99db speakers.
 
I never tried soldering ends on cables, but I've done a lot of soldering in my lifetime. How do you get nice round balls on the ends? Use a die or just build it up? I've never had much luck trying to get solder to form the way I like it, free hand, I mean. I know the guys that cast bullets/balls use pots and dies.
 
DogT said:
I never tried soldering ends on cables, but I've done a lot of soldering in my lifetime. How do you get nice round balls on the ends? Use a die or just build it up? I've never had much luck trying to get solder to form the way I like it, free hand, I mean. I know the guys that cast bullets/balls use pots and dies.
Click to expand...

You buy brass balls or whatever ends you need. I don't know how they form the solder ends - I use solder on ends. Pretty much any shape you need is available.
 
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