Removing Stud

Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
151
I have snapped one of the exhaust rocker/valve cover studs and have tried using an easy out to remove the stud but becuase of its small size i have had no luck in removing it. I am planning on just drilling out the hole and re tapping the thread an replacing with a bigger stud that tapers to the original size so i can obtain the standard look. if anyone has any better ideas please tell me as im a bit stuck.

Thanks BG
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
1,691
The trick is in the drilling. If you can get to the bottom of the stud you will relive the tightness of the stud making it easyer to remove. Easy outs that are tapered are trouble for this app. You need the type that are splined and straight and use a splined nut that slides right down to the surface. In the US Rigid makes a good set. See screw extractors set #5. I have never failed to remove a stud using these. But it's all in the drilling being concentric with the stud. Also geting the size right for the extractor used. The tapered ones cause many problems the force used is too far from the work. This has the effect of cocking the taper and disableing the grip on the stud.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
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200
Your approach is the correct approach, drill out the broken stud, drill and tap to the next standard size and get a machine shop to manufacture a stepped stud for you, it should not be too expensive.

I will not allow anyone in my Machineshop to use easyouts, they end up causing more problems than we originally had, we have a lot of home mechanics who come in with broken off easyouts and ask us if we can help them, most often we can't, it's a throw away.

Regards Mike.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
151
i have acces to machinging aqquipment at my school and should be able to make something my self or get my teacher to help.

thanks for the help.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
151
i tried tapping the thread but the tap would keep stripping out the alloy and now have a dirty big hole that i dont have a tap 2 fit i think i need to weld the hole up and re drill then tap or get a helicoil put in.
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
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1,691
Next time use Rigid part#35535 $4.80 U.S. One 1/4 extractor. It will do it everytime. Cheaper than the cost of any part of what your going thru. I feel your pain just be glad it's not a broken tap. Getting the small bit centered up on the stub may take time but it's worth every minute.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
200
I'm sorry it hasn't gone as it should have, you may well now have to fit a helicoil, as norbsa said a broken tap or easyout wouldn't have been any fun, alloys can break down over a long period of time and can tend to become brittle and rotten and and impossible to work.

Good luck Mike.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
151
i have finally got around to buying a product called durafix the australian HTS-2000 equivilent, i have discovered that it will take much more then a butane gas torch to get the Head to the required 380 degrees celsius and also relised i will have to remove the head and take out the rocker arm seals as the heat will mostlikely melt them. Anyone have a better idea that doesnt involve removing the head and rocker arm seals to heat the head and fix the problem with the stud?
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
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1,603
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I recommend that you don't try the easy way out, as so far the problem seems to be getting worse with every short cut. Take the head off, its a fairly quick and easy job and then you will be able to position it properly in a pillar drill or milling machine that you presumably have at your school, drill the hole straight and fit a helicoil. This will cost you the price of a head gasket and you might enjoy getting on more intimate terms with your bike.
Good luck

Dave
 
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