Parts interchangability

Status
Not open for further replies.
Combat 72,

To actually answer a couple of the questions you asked; There are several different types of head for both Commandos and earlier models. the Atlas and G15 heads come in two basic formats one to accomodate a spigott or liner that sticks out of the top of the barrell, the heads for these have a corresponding recess machined around the perimeter of the combustion chamber, the later models do not have the spigott recess but both heads have smaller diameter holes for the 4 mounting bolts on either side of the spark plug holes, these can easily be machined out for The bigger diameter Commando bolts. Likewise a non Commando 750 barrell can be mechined and tapped to accept Commando bolts as the spacing is the same.

Regarding frames, the earlier frames from the original pre 70s models have a different centre stand arrangement with the stand mounted to a cross tube under the gearbox, whereas the later frames have the stand mounted to the gearbox carrier assembly and a cross tube near the front under the engine, the stands are not the same neither is the mounting or stand for the side stand. The triple clamps for each frame is completely different and are not interchangeable without modification and machining of the frame at the steering head. The later 750s and 850 frames and triple clamps have a different frame rake angle and can be used in one configuration but not in the other - I forget which but think that you cannot use 850 triple clamps in a 750 frame although the other way round is OK.

There are many subtle differences in oil tanks, battery trays, hubs, mudguards etc that might make them unsuitable for use with your particular collection of parts, so a detailed knowledge of Commandos is useful if not vital in building something out of a collection of parts.

I would echo what others have said about trying to start with some kind of project that is at least partially complete, if you have matching frame engine and gearbox numbers this would be a good start although finacial considerations are important. i think if you keep your eyes open you might be able to locate something partially complete for the same price as an engine on e-Bay.

Good luck with your quest, a set of triple clamps is a fine basis for a new project!
 
Question about cases

I'm confused about these cases. The first one is listed as Combat cases, and the second just as Commando cases. I thought the Combat cases looked like the second one. Isn't that deal on the left the breather?

Parts interchangability


Parts interchangability
 
Re: Question about cases

First one is an early 20M3S. Not Combat.

This one is either "late" 72 or an early 73. May or may not be Combat. There is no real way to tell.
Not a bad choice being upgraded and reinforced at the radius around the mount bosses. Early 72 broke apart in these areas.

Here is a good web site for ya.
http://atlanticgreen.com/norton.htm

Combat72 said:
 
Thanks Pete. Unfortunately it's got some really ugly welds on it, (I didn't post those pics), kind of scary. If i can get them cheap enough I might just buy them.
 
Combat72 said:
Thanks Pete. Unfortunately it's got some really ugly welds on it, (I didn't post those pics), kind of scary. If i can get them cheap enough I might just buy them.

In that case I might think that neither is a good candidate with the other one being really old like 68 to 70ish.
That being said, many people have had success with welded cases if they are done right.
Maybe better to shy away from these units.
 
Parting up a bike like you seem to be suggesting will be awfully costly. I might think a non runner or a partial ( frame, short block, gearbox and frontend) will save you time (as in years) and money (as in many thousands).
They are out there and popping up all the time. Keep your nose to the monitor and try to be ready to pounce.
 
I guess I'll go ahead and post the pics of the welds. The one on the bottom is particularly ugly. Don't know if they are reinforcement or repair welds, but I suspect they were a repair. In the first picture it looks like the weld goes to the inside of the case.

Parts interchangability


Parts interchangability


Parts interchangability


Parts interchangability


Parts interchangability
 
Yikes, I wonder if he/she lived through that. Too much welding in too many critical areas (mounts).

Thank for the pics though. You're good at that.
 
I wouldn't use these cases if they were free! If you are building your dream bike it will rapidly turn into a nightmare if you use damaged parts.

How much money can you afford to set aside to get yourself started? This might elicit some useful advice as to where to focus your search.
 
In restoration the line is "cheaper and easier to buy it nice than to make it nice".
Hard to believe until you've paid through the nose a few times.
Extremely hard to make money with a brit bike. Yes there are exceptions.
Few of them.
Save up and buy a decent runner. Even then you will need to attend to it but
the core will be worth investing in.
Just my hard won but self-ignored advise!
 
dave M said:
I wouldn't use these cases if they were free! If you are building your dream bike it will rapidly turn into a nightmare if you use damaged parts.

How much money can you afford to set aside to get yourself started? This might elicit some useful advice as to where to focus your search.


+1 on that... There are some things that you can buy damaged and refurbish to a proper functional state... But cases with weld repairs, i dont think so... Then again if they were free or $10 would acquire them, they could be usefull for mock up fitting, research are an anchor.... Most of all patience is required, particularly when a "budget" is applicable..
 
A decent runner, no matter how you come to it, will be $5,000+. A nice bike with all new rubber, battery & electronics will run $7,500+.

A mismatched bitsa bike will cost you $5,000 pretty easily. So, you see where this goes.

If you can start with a semi-complete roller (with title) for under $3,000 you are probably doing well.
 
Any one of those three would be a good starting point if they're what they say they are. I've never seen any as cheap.
 
Yeah, they do seem suspiciously cheap. They are all advertised as running bikes. Cheaper than I bought mine in 1984.
 
Maybe now the new Nortons out , itll be like the Triumphs .
Every man and his dog gets one , and abandons the anachronistic olde relics to their fate , as they no longer have to be a masochist , to say ' I ride a NORTON . ' .

It might be just the beginning . why weeks from now you might not even get one hundred buck for them . :P :x :lol: :roll: :wink:
 
I have seen the red 850 advertised in three different places all at different prices. The high price was 5,000 asking. Scammers take real ads, click and copy them then set the price low and work the scam " I work offshore as a Sea Captain, wire me the money, you will receive your motorcycle in 7 days. If you are not happy with it, return it for a full refund. This way there is no risk to you" or something similar.

They started doing this with collector cars and motorcycles, have moved o to lower cost motorcycles and even parts. It might be tough to pull off a scam on a 100,000 motorcycle, but it is fairly easy to scam $300 from somone who thinks they are getting a $1,000 part for their $300 wire transfer. This happened to a friend a couple of weeks ago.
There is an ebay Combat roller at $2500 opening bid, no bids last I looked. It appeared legit, at least you have some recourse thru ebay and feedback to consider.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
I have seen the red 850 advertised in three different places all at different prices. The high price was 5,000 asking. Scammers take real ads, click and copy them then set the price low and work the scam " I work offshore as a Sea Captain, wire me the money, you will receive your motorcycle in 7 days. If you are not happy with it, return it for a full refund. This way there is no risk to you" or something similar.

They started doing this with collector cars and motorcycles, have moved o to lower cost motorcycles and even parts. It might be tough to pull off a scam on a 100,000 motorcycle, but it is fairly easy to scam $300 from somone who thinks they are getting a $1,000 part for their $300 wire transfer. This happened to a friend a couple of weeks ago.
There is an ebay Combat roller at $2500 opening bid, no bids last I looked. It appeared legit, at least you have some recourse thru ebay and feedback to consider.

Glen

I have also noticed the red one at two different prices in two different places. I figure that one for a scam, and suspect the others I posted as well. I'm hip to those scams already. When I was looking at trucks a guy tried to pull the "it's already at the shipping agent's" etc. He was out of country etc., but there was absolutely no way we could work out a way for me to look at it first. So anytime I see something priced too good to be true, I assume it is. If I do follow up and contact them, as soon as wire transfer or a third party is mentioned, I'm out.
 
grandpaul said:
A decent runner, no matter how you come to it, will be $5,000+. A nice bike with all new rubber, battery & electronics will run $7,500+.

A mismatched bitsa bike will cost you $5,000 pretty easily. So, you see where this goes.

If you can start with a semi-complete roller (with title) for under $3,000 you are probably doing well.

I know that you are right. I've had time to let the initial excitement of making this decision to reacquire a Norton to wear off now, and to step back and look at it objectively. It's clear that I need to devise a financial plan for this project in order to proceed in rational manner. I have other matters that are more pressing right now and once those issues are put to rest, that will free up more funds for this project. The hurdle that I have overcome at this time is to have had my wife acknowledge my commitment to do this and agree to it. She knows that once I get the bit in my mouth I don't let go. THAT'S what got me excited enough to rush in here and start spouting off.

So reality sets in now, but I'm in for the long haul. Yes, as was previously said, the smart thing to do now would be to start accumulating the consumables -- bushings, bearing, gaskets, etc.

Thanks to you guys for you patience and indulgence.

Snorton, PM sent.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top