Interchangeable Parts

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Sounds like exactly where I started. Before and after. It was one of six basket cases I bought. I built a 72 750 first, then this bike and have just finished a 71 750. I have also bought a lot of used parts off ebay. Takes a lot of patience. Set your bid limit and if it goes for more another one will come along eventually. Hardest part to find for an 850 is a good cylinder head.
Interchangeable Parts
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Interchangeable Parts
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Sounds like exactly where I started. Before and after. It was one of six basket cases I bought. I built a 72 750 first, then this bike and have just finished a 71 750. I have also bought a lot of used parts off ebay. Takes a lot of patience. Set your bid limit and if it goes for more another one will come along eventually. Hardest part to find for an 850 is a good cylinder head.
Interchangeable Parts
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Interchangeable Parts
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Wow, that’s a beautiful motorcycle. All of your guys are giving me hope. I didn’t realize how many people start basically where I’m starting.

I just assumed that I was the only crazy person out there that would take on a project like this that is nothing more than a bare frame.

I’m happy to know that I’m in good company.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
 
Not trying to take the excitement out of it. The advise is good finding a nearly complete 850 will cost less overall. Merge the parts into one machine then sell off the extra stuff. If you intend to assemble this one then sell know that without the original gearbox with the same numbers as frame and engine this is not a matching numbers machine. Mixing different years parts is called a bitsa. Bitsa is valuable only to its owner.
So if, say, you bought the bike in 74 and way back then you had a wreck or did something where only the gearbox, the case of it, was smashed hard and the shop just swaped out a whole gearbox for you and you were on your way again, then the bike has lost all value in future as the classic we all want today? I don't know anything about the numbers game, but maybe they did something like hand you a piece of paper, notarized that the official norton shop of Lower Slobovia (Ohio) did this and the new number goes with all the other matching number for that whole machine. And if that, or something equally "official", could be done then in the name of fixing something, when, exactly does that option run out? In one year, or two , or twenty, or fifty? Think about this. Say, way go out to buy an original Lola GT. Only a cool $3,000,000.00. And Oh gosh, Oh goodness! One of the numbers doesn't match (It was raced after all). Why, if you brought that up to the seller he just might say to you, "Ok, in light of this, for you the new price is $3,500,000.00." Here is the issue: it's not a Picasso where we're checking the signature. We (maybe I'm just speaking for myself, but I don't think so!) are buying the bike to ride this glorious thing from the distant past. And too work on it too. I can't leave that out. And whether a different serial number is found, unless that tells of theft! It's not going to matter one whit to most of us. To some, maybe, and to each his own bag. But when I found my Norton and was given a firm price, I bought it. It had been licensed before and now newly checked. It wasn't stolen and it wasn't a Honda 90 in disguise and that was all I cared about numbers. Beyond that, I couldn't give a fig.
 
Good luck with your project. The folks here will guide you as to what parts are compatible and what to avoid. You'll have to wade through the chaff though, as the opinions can be, umm... varied and personal.

I'm blessed in that I bought my Norton new and it's been my sole rider for 45 years. Numbers matching, yes, but no trailer queen.

Interchangeable Parts
 
Great discussion! I'm also new to Nortons and picked up a 72 project this summer. Lots of missing parts but the big stuff was all there. Seeing how you're starting from scratch, I suddenly don't feel like my project is anywhere near as daunting.

Bitsa tends to have the connotation of something thrown together - a real mish-mash of poorly integrated bits just to have a running bike. It's a derogatory term.

Matching numbers is one of those things that adds to a selling price. It's just the way it is, no point making a fuss about it. When buying a bike it's one of those things to be considered calculating a fair price.

Value, monetarily or not, is a slippery subject. What it's worth to you is really the most important consideration. If the important consideration is resale value, then you probably don't 'own' the bike. On the other hand, when I buy a bike, I try to calculate how much it could sell for once everything is right, so I don't end up with way more into it than it'll ever sell for.

All of these different aspects relate to a perceived value and worth - mileage, matching numbers, original parts, and all that. Going above all that requires a higher level of understanding, an understanding only a true aficionado would have.
 
That is a beautiful motorcycle. Love the Atlas frames. I was actually considering an Atlas before I bought the ‘73, but I felt that more parts would be available to me at more reasonable prices. I also did a bunch of research and I ended up falling in love with Commandos.
 
As you progress give consideration to your part needs through this site.
There is a warehouse of goodies in here...just not all in the same spot. There is a "Parts Wanted" forum that was a big help while I did my restoration.
 
OK, we've established that you are completely insane but delusional enough to pull this off. So you apparently are not afraid of research. I've not read through every post in this thread, so may duplicate previous info, but offer up some ideas here:

1.) Get a manual or download a .pdf version or both. The manual covers 70 and up so it offers insight into what changes were made over the span of production.

2.) I'd become familiar with Old Britts (I find their interface easier to use to check between years than Andover Norton but both sites work). You can read a ton of technical articles there, you can compare parts lists for different years and get pricing for new parts. All good info and hours worth of entertainment and research. They are a good source for parts as well. (Andover Norton might be better for getting acquainted with bits as they have photos of the parts in the price list).

3.) Find someone with a complete Commando. It's a big help when you have a pile of parts to see one that is put together (correctly we hope).

4.) Become proficient in searching this site. Don't be afraid to bring old threads back to life. Some of the old links are dead and photos may be goofed up despite efforts to keep it all working. However, if you find an old thread that seems to have some keys for you, the group here is good at unlocking it. Sometimes its way better than starting a new thread.

5.) Getting back to Old Britts. You will find arguments among the users here about some of the upgrades performed and recommended. However, it is still a great resource. There is also this detailed article on how to build your own Commando, from scratch. I'd spend some time looking it over! http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_new_bike.html
 
One more thing.

Be careful buying Mk3 parts. A lot of stuff changed between Mk2 and Mk3. Some will offer an upgrade, others will just not work.
 
The whole MKI, MKII, MKII is very confusing.

Your 73 850 would be the first of that breed, a MK1. 74 was a MK2 with some improvements, and the M2A with quiet mufflers and intake. The 75 electric start was a MK3. The tech info sticky has all the models listed.
 
Your 73 850 would be the first of that breed, a MK1. 74 was a MK2 with some improvements, and the M2A with quiet mufflers and intake. The 75 electric start was a MK3. The tech info sticky has all the models listed.

great thanks!
 
The whole MKI, MKII, MKII is very confusing.

To add to maylar's comment. In the 1973 production year, both 750 and 850 bikes were produced. It was the only year with both sizes. There are lots of 750 parts that fit the 850, but more than whether or not they just bolt on, would be a consideration as to what your entire build will be.

The 73 and 74 850s are the only right shift, kick-start 850s and as such almost all parts are interchangeable. I wouldn't get too hung up on Mk1 vs Mk2 as those lines are a bit obscure. The Mk3 850 was an electric start, left side shift. Lots of changes. But to illustrate how hazy these lines are, I have a 74 850 (mk2) with swingarm seals from the Mk3. My bike is clearly a Mk2 but the factory started that change early.

The biggest difference between 73 and 74 is the head, and carb manifolds. The 1974 Mk2 had a an RH10 head as opposed to the RH4. It has different porting and thus special manifolds to fit. If you decide to build this bike as a 750 then that is another avenue for research. It is sort of like the 327 vs 350 V-8 build. Some of these bikes are bored to 880 or 920 but you will be buying special parts for that kind of project.

There were different exhausts used on different years and models. It's possible to get crossed up a bit buying mounting plates and the method of attachment at the head went through some changes.
 
Beautiful engine, but I’m building my GT40 with a modern engine and suspension. It will have a Ford Coyote Engine and a Porsche transmission.

Here’s my motor, it’s done and ready to put in.

Interchangeable Parts

Cool build on the power plant..hope everything fits.
Would really like to to see your 40 build when completed. The engine pic I posted is destined for a Kirkham.
 
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