Oil leaks and British bikes

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Hi all,
I guess the scope of this subject is so large that it could have an entire forum of it’s own but I guess I’m not questioning how to fix individual oil leaks but rather the philosophy of why British bikes have such a reputation for being totally incontinent. In fact many non riders who couldn’t name a single British model will weigh into any discussion of old bikes with highly derogatory statements about how much oil puddles under a British bike overnight.
I should state from the outset that my 3 bikes (Commando, T140 & T160) are all surprisingly oil tight but never so oil tight that a ride in dusty conditions won’t show up mists as dirty patches somewhere on the engine.
The Trident obviously must be more prone to leaks simply because it has more engine cases and other components to be the source of potential leaks. The Commando of course has the rather poorly conceived single bolt retaining a very large chain case, not to mention the need to move the gearbox to adjust the primary chain. But beyond this, they just seem to have a propensity to leak, be it fork seals, metal to metal static seals or other oil seals. Yes, you can get them pretty good but only with far more attention to detail than would be required on a similar Jap bike, where, as long as the components are reasonably clean and a gasket or good quality sealant is used, you can be reasonably assured of a perfect joint. There are some areas that are just plain bad design, the clutch cable entry into a Trident’s chain case for example but other leaks seem to defy logic.
I think perhaps that the width of the joint might be narrower than on some similar Japanese cases and maybe the vibration associated with 360’ twins might cause flexing. Perhaps even poor tolerances in the machining. As the British market share declined in the early 70s and their faults became more apparent in comparison to the large Japanese opposition, it’s a wonder they didn’t take simple steps to remedy the problem like running an O-ring groove around the problem areas.
Any way, this is all just idle speculation. As for my Mk 2, it’s nemesis is an annoying very slight weep from the RH cylinder head joint, so small to be irrelevant except that I have 10 km of dirt road in and out of my place. I really can’t bring myself to remove the head to try to cure it.
Having said all that, the old Norton still puts a smile on my dial and on the fast mountain roads around here, still would take considerable commitment on the behalf of a rider of a far more modern machines to get in front of it. It amazes me just how well it does actually go, with or without the odd drop of oil.
regards
Alan
 
I spent last summer chasing down my engine oil leaks. But I think I would have solved most of them by just adding a Reed valve into the breather line. No more leaks, so far, since I did that. Plus the engine sounds happier.
 
Old Harleys, BMWs, Italians of similar years to the English machines you refer all leak oil as well. Maybe the Brits a bit more.
“And we’ll see the world on my Harley, if the chain don’t break”.
 
There is a lot of reasons why old British bikes leaks. That Japanese don't leak is not true. My CB250 racer had a habit of oiling my right leg,
Fork leaks. Old Brit bikes did not have hard chromed stanchions. Prone to rust and nicks. Modern bikes also need new seals every now and then.
Engine leaks. Parallel twins breathes a lot as both pistons go up and down at the same time. Same as with singles. A Japanese 180 degrees twin or a 4 cylinder one hardly breathes at all.
Vertically split crankcase. Oil thrown around has easier to go out. A Japanese horizontally split crankcase less likely to leak.
Dry sump versus wet sump lubrication. Easier to keep oil inside on a wet sump engine. Though the first CB750 had dry sump, it rarely leaked.
Manufacturing tolerances and surface finish. Not so good on old Brits. My Molnar Manx engine, made with modern machine tools and manufacturing techniques don't leak at all.
Service interval. Old Brit bikes needed stripping and servicing more often. As most riders did the work themself, they often used improper ways to do it. Thus damaging mating surfaces resulting in more leaks.
Primary. Another source of problems. Separate gearbox versus block engines.
Gearbox. Inadequate seals on outgoing shaft and oil leak between sleeve gear and mainshaft. Gear lever and kickstart shafts not properly sealed.
External oil pipes.
At last some Brit bikes supplied a small quantity of oil to the rear chain. Could be done to modern bikes with a Scot oiler.
What did I forgot?
 
I spent last summer chasing down my engine oil leaks. But I think I would have solved most of them by just adding a Reed valve into the breather line. No more leaks, so far, since I did that. Plus the engine sounds happier.
Pressure and hot oil has to go somewhere, having a good breathing system is very important, something that sucks out and not back in is very important to any motors, and gaskets and seals do fail over time, they go hard or brittle from heat and age, my 850 has always been oil tight since new but as I say gaskets do fail, I have a full set of gaskets papers in my shed of different thickness and I have the tools and patients to make my own when needed, but the new silicone valve cover gaskets was the best things I have bought and sealing up the studs and the 3 primary bolts threads and never over tighten the primary centre nut, now to replace the old drain plug copper washer.

Ashley
 
What's the point? With scrupulous attention to detail, a Commando can be oil tight. I can't speculate how long. I'm running a reed valve,
careful gasketing, good oil seals, etc. Yet, my engine cases are porous and weep oil at the front. Just enough to piss me off. And, the
transmission drain plug yields a drop here and there. Oh! Despite careful primary reassembly , including new crank oil seal, I still get
some oil drips from the dry primary vent holes (cNw electric start kit with belt drive). Yes, from the crank oil seal. Maybe the newly added o-ring
I just installed will make a difference. Maybe not. All in all, I'm not too upset with what I have. A well running Commando is, indeed,
a wondrous machine.
 
Pressure and hot oil has to go somewhere, having a good breathing system is very important, something that sucks out and not back in is very important to any motors, and gaskets and seals do fail over time, they go hard or brittle from heat and age, my 850 has always been oil tight since new but as I say gaskets do fail, I have a full set of gaskets papers in my shed of different thickness and I have the tools and patients to make my own when needed, but the new silicone valve cover gaskets was the best things I have bought and sealing up the studs and the 3 primary bolts threads and never over tighten the primary centre nut, now to replace the old drain plug copper washer.

Ashley
I use dowty washers on various oil lines on the Vincent. So far, so good. Perhaps one will be suitable for the large drain plug?
Similar to these:

Amazon product ASIN B01MXI57Y9
Russ
 
I spent last summer chasing down my engine oil leaks. But I think I would have solved most of them by just adding a Reed valve into the breather line. No more leaks, so far, since I did that. Plus the engine sounds happier.
What reed valve did you use?
 
Yet, my engine cases are porous and weep oil at the front. Just enough to piss me off.
Take a page from experienced Harley Davidson rebuilders and coat the inside of the cases with Glyptol.

 
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As Mart UK said just adding a reed valve to a carefully rebuilt engine will stop oil leaks/misting dead. A few years ago I was commuting on my 850 & noticed that if I held it at over 85mph on the motorway each day there would be an oily misting on the cylinder base area. I machined up a copy of the JC/CNW reed valve, fitted it & hey presto, a totally leak free engine. I have since fitted the same to my 750 Commando & Atlas with the same results. Next on the list is the OIF A65 I'm currently building.
I have to say that all this talk about vertically split cases meaning leaks are inevitable is BS. The Ducati V twins I've worked on & ridden don't piss oil out nor do the Jap singles.

Martyn.
 
I have to say that all this talk about vertically split cases meaning leaks are inevitable is BS. The Ducati V twins I've worked on & ridden don't piss oil out nor do the Jap singles.

Martyn.
Exactly !!

The vast majority of leaking Brit bikes do NOT leak from there!
I have had the same experience with Panhead Hogs. Worst place for leaks on them was the pushrod tubes and breather.
 
Oil leaks and British bikes
Oil leaks and British bikes
 
OK that's the same reed valve I employed.

Oil leaks and British bikes
I also have mine nearer the oil tank than the case. I gave it a clean out at my last oil change. Some mayonnaise, but not too bad. I'll give it a flush through each service.
 
My Commando engines have always been oil-tight, but when the PCV breather pipe detached it blew the cylinder base out, proving the value of the PCV (and proper pipe clips instead of zip-ties!)
The OEM metal clad crank seals are rubbish. I was told they're great provided they're fitted with a coat of sealant...
I just use a fully rubberised type - no problems.

Did someone mention gearboxes?
 
My Commando engines have always been oil-tight, but when the PCV breather pipe detached it blew the cylinder base out, proving the value of the PCV (and proper pipe clips instead of zip-ties!)
The OEM metal clad crank seals are rubbish. I was told they're great provided they're fitted with a coat of sealant...
I just use a fully rubberised type - no problems.

Did someone mention gearboxes?
Maybe it's the type of oil you used :)
 
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