one piece rear axle (2012)

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yes probably 15mm (or 17) that being the case, then to fit the Honda 15mm axle, one would have to modify
the swingarm slots, modify the Right side spacer, modify the speedo drive spacer, modify or replace with different bearings the long central axle spacer, shall I go on????
yes, a real good alternative .
 
This is still a rather short term newly established British bike forum with many newbies to catch up to speed... I long ago shopped Pacific rim bone yards with Wesley to see that Ms Peel's had to go with 19 mm axle. I'm not qualified to detail solid axles just point out what's be done, so fill in the data blanks with this fella...

broken-axle-t7816-30.html
 
This is a bit of a long thread now, so maybe I missed something. All this talk about problems with stainless steel axles confuses me. Madass, didn't you say that the axle was 4140 steel, and only the head and nut ( and maybe the washers) were stainless? Shouldn't that make it a non-issue? It's a nice looking bit, and I'd use it in a flash if I was using the stock setup.

Ken
 
axle , nut and 1/8" thick washers are stainless, the spacer is zinc plated steel, I saw no reason to make the spacer in stainless.
but in hindsight I think we should abandon my one piece axle project and we all buy 350 Honda axles and start
butchering our swingarms, speedo drives etc, oh and we will all have to buy a lathe also.
but then maybe someone could make a .... naaa forget about it.
 
madass140 said:
... oh and we will all have to buy a lathe also.

I'm getting closer, every time I use my friends equipment (mill, lathe, belt grinder, bandsaw, etc). Talk about fun...
 
madass140 said:
I'm sure some of the experts here are running a one piece rear axle, but I havent seen any comments here, maybe I've missed them, anyway I havent seen them for sale anywhere so I been working on this project and its looking good, it will entail replacing the short stub axle with a special spacer fitting the whole wheel assembly in to place and slide in the new one piece axle, I'll try and get some pics up later, If I do a production run then the 9/16" axle will probably be made of 4140 and the head and nut stainless.
I think it will be a great improvement .

I think this first post is what confused me. Somewhere along the line you must have decided to do a full stainless axle instead of the 4140, and I missed that particular post.

Ken
 
I understood it was still 4140.

Coincidentally, that's what I make my featherbed swingarm spindles out of.
 
The axle nut and washers are stainless, the spacer is zinc plated steel.
I guarantee the axle from breakage .
 
madass140 said:
axle , nut and 1/8" thick washers are stainless, the spacer is zinc plated steel, I saw no reason to make the spacer in stainless.
but in hindsight I think we should abandon my one piece axle project and we all buy 350 Honda axles and start
butchering our swingarms, speedo drives etc, oh and we will all have to buy a lathe also.
but then maybe someone could make a .... naaa forget about it.

Well, I had bought a Honda 350 axle and all the bits a year ago ... but have hesitated cause' I didn't really want to have my swingarm modified. So now, I can't wait for it to arrive Don, and sure appreciate you makin' this !!! :D
 
madass140 said:
The axle nut and washers are stainless, the spacer is zinc plated steel.
I guarantee the axle from breakage .

i bought a axle from madass in the phillipines to Australia,if Australia post or associated couriers in this country cant bend it crush it or break it that makes it bullet proof & near indestructible not a bad prelimary torture test.
 
Sorry for this late response -- I just noticed this today. If you plan to make a "drop in kit" for this modification, that must mean you're keeping the original axle size, which is a bad idea.

The stock bearings in the Norton rear axle are metric -- 17mm, which is about 0.67 inches. Norton sleeved these down internally to fit the 5/8" rear axle which is 0.625 inches, probably because they had a lot of rear axles and wanted to use them up (Norton didn't have much money during this period and never spent it unless they had to). So if you're offering a "drop in kit" for a one-piece axle, that means you're going from 2-piece to 1-piece, but keeping the puny 5/8" axle.

When I converted to a one-piece axle on my bike, I got rid of the sleeves in the bearings so they were 17mm again, then I fitted a 17mm rear axle from a Honda CB 350. (Many other Japanese bikes of the period used 17mm axles, so they're not hard to find). Then I enlarged the slots in the swingarm to fit, which can be done precisely without removing the swingarm by using a big file and a stepped bar with diameters that slowly approach 17mm so you can keep trying it in the slot and know how much you're taking off.

The fact that Honda would choose a 17mm axle for the 350, which is much lighter and less powerful than a Commando, should be enough proof that when you convert to a one-piece axle you should also convert to the bigger axle that the Commando's wheel bearings were designed for.

And the way I did the modification, I didn't have to make many new pieces but only had to drill out the dummy axle and the various spacers to 17mm on my lathe. The only tricky part is the speedo drive, because the "top hat" sleeve that goes in the drive is too thin to drill out. So you make a new one that's 17mm on the inside, then bore or file the speedo drive to fit it.
 
It would hardly be a "drop in kit" if you have to start opening out the axle slots in the swing arm or modifying the speedo drive. I think I know which way most owners would go, I've sold a lot of my one piece axles ,
 
I suppose if I really wanted to improve the bike, a 17mm axle would be the way to go. However the way I ride it won't matter.

Dave
69S
 
exactly Dave, but being one piece whatever the diameter is , is a vast improvement over the 2 piece set up.
I guarantee my one piece axles from breakage,
 
maddass-ness, if your SS axle are attracted by a magnetic then its regular steel strength enough they may well be unbreakable and safest simplest upgrade to do and I retract my SS axle avoidance reaction in that case. Something mysterious I've never seen before has occurred in Trixie Combat this last season on new factory axle - 1/2" of the end threads are whipped off. Still screwed in tight last time flat fixed on side of road, which makes me appreciate the faster wheel removal replacement with half numb hands and wonder if I could handle aligning one piece axle single handed. So I'm soon in market for rear hub parts and another new axle. I don't think my rough routes would long allow the thinned swing arm slots the 17mm solution requires w/o some welded plate beefing.
 
I agree with the benefits of QD esp by the side of the rode. It pays
to go through the drill in the home shop to see just what it takes.
Better to be prepared.
 
Hey angry buttocks, just wondering what the procedure is to fit rear assembly with your one piece axle, especially if on side of sloped road in wet mud at night and cold with an annoyed wife waiting to get back home. ?

What i thought was chewed off end threads in above conditons, was just cleaver step down end to ease threading with grease blocking detailed view, a feature I don't remember on my other axles.
 
Hi just received today two one piece rear axle , they look stunning and will fit perfectly my everyday commando (the other for my cafe racer , Manx look alike swing arm but commando cush drive hub!), I will try to it from the left side so I could dismantle the wheel while letting the chain sprocket in place................
 
Astounding. I just received my axle from Madass this afternoon. Paid on Tuesday afternoon, arrived at my door today at 4PM, thats 3 days from the Phillipines to Me in Lancashire. To put that in context, I'm still waiting for bits from Venhill(UK) that I ordered on Monday! I've never had such good service from an overseas supplier before. The Axle assembly looks a quality item, and I cannot wait to get it fitted, when/if I can get the bearings out of the sprocket hub.
In the hub, I have removed the felt washer cover, the felt washer, the washer, and the circlip, is there now a trick to remove the bearings, or is it brute force reqd?

Madass, Thanks for the Axle, great comms, good service and a quality product, who could ask for more? :)
 
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