one piece rear axle (2012)

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Got mine in the mail today. Thanks madass.
one piece rear axle (2012)
 
Madass

Not wishing to start a new thread for this.

What torque do you recommend for your one piece rear axle?

Peter
 
hobot said:
Ivory was one of the first store bought solid soaps with simple ingredients enough most can tolerate it. Its the smell of barracks and hi school showers and a lot of motels in America. Its what mothers washed out foul monthed youngsters with too, uuk. i use bar soap or old candles to rub on sliding door track to lube them and on screws driven in hard wood and in a sock to bop someone.
one piece rear axle (2012)


A good slice of bath bar soap in a sock at the foot of the bed helps settle restless leg syndrome for many very significantly. I never heard of this prior to Ozarks folks telling me it worked for them. I know the sources and fixes of restless legs but don't know what's up with the soap but if someone tries it let me know. The other common folk remedy in past was ATF or brake fluid or wd/40 put on painful arthritic joints and spine. I think that's the DMSO solvent which feels warming rubbed on. DMSO is famous race horse treatment externally but can be injected too, diluted. DMSO is bad juju on paint, if wet say over night, wiping is too late for the blisters than will eventually show.

BTW I tried the MoM on my mower header SS allen screws in old cast iron head and sure enough they broke free with similar torque as I left them and lost resistance in a few turns. An air leak rust blow out caused header and muffler to turn red and blow out the end cap so it got plenty hot tested.


Wouldn’t Carbolic soap work just as well :?: :) :shock:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbolic_soap
 
I finally installed the new axle last night. Once you remove the two piece axle, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. I haven't torqued the nuts all the way down, but envision getting closer to the 80ft lbs I've seen suggested.
 
Just curious,
The Madass SS, axel as discussed is for the pre 1975 disc brake Norton.
Is there one for the 1975 & up rear disc brake Norton?
 
I now have them for pre MK3, Early Commando which uses the boltup hub and a third for Atlas, not interchangeable between models.
 
I have had 2 rear axles snap on my 850 mk3 over the years, always at the point where the threaded section ends. I was always on the understanding that that point is a stress riser and metal fatigue is to blame, but luckily I survived both times unscathed...
 
lcrken said:
madass140 said:
due to improper assembly. I've never heard of any race bikes breaking rear axles.

I broke two of them on my race bike (Commando PR) back in the day, before converting to a one-piece axle. I recall other Commando racers having the same failure. And yes, they did all break at the start of the threads.

Ken

Yes the two piece axel can break on a racer or performance bike, its just plain weak. Use a drilled through spacer and go with a one piece axle. Its not a big deal.
 
there is also this report
johnny Lagdon said:
I have had 2 rear axles snap on my 850 mk3 over the years, always at the point where the threaded section ends. I was always on the understanding that that point is a stress riser and metal fatigue is to blame, but luckily I survived both times unscathed...
 
I fitted up Don's SS one-piece kit today and found a couple of issues, want to know if I'm the only one to see them.
1) Upon tightening, the end of the axle (bolt) is recessed about 8mm (5/16") from the outside of the nut. You can't see the end of the axle itself unless you peer into the hole. Enough thread is engaged to be safe, I'm sure, but gives a sinking feeling at first glance.
2) I had to add 2mm thick washers at each end, to avoid fouling the chain adjusters on the heads of the bolt and nut. Stock washers are 4mm, the madass look like 3mm, and shd be closer to 5mm to centralise the adjusters.
Anyone else notice something like this?

I might also mention that I have to fight with the stock RH axle spacer every time I pull the wheel; it seems to be about 1/8" too long, and I have to "wedge" it into place. Can someone provide the correct length dimension for this spacer #4 on plate 20, 060324?
Is there a good reason to NOT take an eighth off mine?
Alternately, should I try to spread the swingarm to get that "missing" 1/8 ? Is 8.25" the accepted correct dimension for the swingarm spacing at the wheel?


Thanks--
Rick
 
Mr. Rick said:
I fitted up Don's SS one-piece kit today and found a couple of issues, want to know if I'm the only one to see them.
1) Upon tightening, the end of the axle (bolt) is recessed about 8mm (5/16") from the outside of the nut. You can't see the end of the axle itself unless you peer into the hole. Enough thread is engaged to be safe, I'm sure, but gives a sinking feeling at first glance.
2) I had to add 2mm thick washers at each end, to avoid fouling the chain adjusters on the heads of the bolt and nut. Stock washers are 4mm, the madass look like 3mm, and shd be closer to 5mm to centralise the adjusters.
Anyone else notice something like this?

I might also mention that I have to fight with the stock RH axle spacer every time I pull the wheel; it seems to be about 1/8" too long, and I have to "wedge" it into place. Can someone provide the correct length dimension for this spacer #4 on plate 20, 060324?
Is there a good reason to NOT take an eighth off mine?
Alternately, should I try to spread the swingarm to get that "missing" 1/8 ? Is 8.25" the accepted correct dimension for the swingarm spacing at the wheel?


Thanks--
Rick

Are you certain the brake plate locating tab is fully recessed in the swingarm?
 
or, you may have been supplied a kit for an earlier model.
I use the same axle washers on 3 Commando's without issues.
Don
 
Are you certain the brake plate locating tab is fully recessed in the swingarm?
Yes, thanks, Acadian, the tab is in the slot.

Thanks, Don, for checking on this!
The axle I rec'd measures 10 13/16" (275mm) OAL, the threaded portion being 1 1/8" (29mm).
Length under the (fixed) washer supplied is just over 9 5/8" (245mm).
The round section under the bolt head against which the chain adjuster sits on the left is .0403" (10.2mm) long.
That same section on the nut for the RH side is .433", 11MM
Without the extra washers, the adjusters are contacting the hex flats.

The "rest position" of my swingarm opening is 8 1/8" (207mm)
Slightly more troubling, I see that there are axle threads in all of the RH swingarm slot, even without using the extra washer I need.
If I were to spread the swingarm opening somehow to 8.25", it wd get worse.

So to sum up, I reckon I need an axle with 11 1/8" (283mm) Overall length and only 7/8" (22.2mm) of thread. Do you make such a thing?
 
standard swingarm is 205mm inside, 221mm outside.
An axle with OA length of 283mm will give you 227mm between the washers,
However if that is what you want I will send that to you
The length you are requesting is the length for Featherbed which is to long for Commando. hmmm
Don
 
standard swingarm is 205mm inside, 221mm outside.
That's very close to my own swingarm "rest position", but after you install the hub, wheel and jam the stock spacer in, those grow to 209 inside and 224 outside.

An axle with OA length of 283mm will give you 227mm between the washers,
Not sure how that follows, but 25 for each head, 5 for each side's washers, and 224 as above comes to 284. Threading only the last 26 or so wd keep the threads out of the SA slot

However if that is what you want I will send that to you.
I'm happy to pay for it, and very pleased that you offer these at all. I'll send you an email and work out the details.

The length you are requesting is the length for Featherbed which is to long for Commando. hmmm
Don't know what to make of this. Stock 74 850 is my only bike...

Thanks again, Don, for the follow up!
 
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