No Spark Issue

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Rock

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Before I start, thank you to everyone on this forum, I'm more of a reviewer than poster... The information has allowed me to complete the build I've always wanted.

My issue is that I have no spark at the plugs...

I've recently finished a full rebuild of my Mk3, running in the engine, 350 klm's on clock.
It is running 3 phase alternator, Mosfet SH775, trispark EI, CNW single coil conversion.

Out for an enjoyable ride, all running smoothly and then nothing... the engine stopped firing, all other electrics work fine, all fuses fine

After getting it home on a trailer, testing commenced... and I can't find the issue
All earthing checks complete, battery fully charged, trispark test completed with ample spark at plugs, but no spark at plugs when undertaking normal spark test turning engine over.

Could it be the trispark is shagged?

Appreciate further direction please
 
Try this before you dig too deep and start tearing down:

* Take the plugs out, and with the bike in gear, slowly turn the back wheel.

* Watch the Tri-Spark and stop at the point when the red LED comes on.

* See if that corresponds with the timing mark on the alternator rotor and the ignition timing degree scale on the primary case.

On the basis that your two Tri-Spark tests passed with flying colors and gave you a decent spark, it says to me that your electrics and wiring are OK, I am wondering if the magnetic rotor has slipped a little, and you are no longer producing your sparks at the right time.
 
Thanks, will try the above test and will also check the rotor.

I also checked the 3 phase rotor for slipping, woodruff key in tact and complete, timing at 28 deg BTDC with degree wheel. TDC validated with dial gauge @ 0deg when checking.
 
Rock said:
but no spark at plugs when undertaking normal spark test turning engine over.
Click to expand...
gforce said:
I am wondering if the magnetic rotor has slipped a little, and you are no longer producing your sparks at the right time.
Click to expand...

If the Tri-Spark rotor had slipped then there should still be sparks.

Rock said:
I also checked the 3 phase rotor for slipping, woodruff key in tact and complete, timing at 28 deg BTDC with degree wheel. TDC validated with dial gauge @ 0deg when checking.
Click to expand...

If the alternator rotor did slip then it wouldn't affect the ignition timing.
 
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gforce said:
* Watch the Tri-Spark and stop at the point when the red LED comes on.
Click to expand...
My guess is that it won't. After the tests that have already been done, about the only thing left is the rotor and pickup.
 
So, test conducted, and no red light... which indicates the trispark is faulty, am I correct in assuming this?
 
It suggests that the rotor on the end of the camshaft is not spinning.

I assume when you fitted it, you made sure there was adequate clearance as per the instructions?

No Spark Issue



Also, is the camshaft rotating with the engine?

Turn the engine over and make sure the valves are opening and closing - it could be a camshaft drive sprocket with a sheared woodruff key.
 
Rock said:
So, test conducted, and no red light... which indicates the trispark is faulty, am I correct in assuming this?
Click to expand...
if all the wiring is correct than is is a good bet it is a dead trispark. it has had a poor reliability record with me and some others I know. I gave up after the 3rd one did not last as long as a rear tire.
 
Yes, adequate clearance, fitted as per instructions, valves operating correctly
 
Rock said:
All earthing checks complete, battery fully charged, trispark test completed with ample spark at plugs, but no spark at plugs when undertaking normal spark test turning engine over.
Click to expand...
The Tri-Spark test has two parts. If it passed both parts then the underlined part above can't be - the second part of the built-in test checks the magnet/pickup. If the first part passes and the second part fails and the rotor is turning, then the Tri-Spark pickup is bad (bad Tri-Spark stator) or the magnets lost magnetism. Steve will be very interested - call him!

The common reason for a running Tri-Spark bike to stop running is the rotor not being tight enough and slipping but as others have said - that affects timing but the red light will still come on.
 
Problem solved. New trispark orderd, fitted, fired up first go.

Thanks to everyone for advise and confirming my analysis
 
Rock said:
Problem solved. New trispark orderd, fitted, fired up first go.

Thanks to everyone for advise and confirming my analysis
Click to expand...
I hope you ordered two. after the first one failed I always carried a spare and had to use them. after the third one failed I was over it and sold the last one with less than 100 miles on it and that milage was only because that was how far from home i was when it failed.
 
bill said:
I hope you ordered two. after the first one failed I always carried a spare and had to use them. after the third one failed I was over it and sold the last one with less than 100 miles on it and that milage was only because that was how far from home i was when it failed.
Click to expand...
And it's still working flawlessly on my 850. Thank you. :)
 
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