1973 Hi-rider no spark

Gentlemen, there is CORROSION in the tiny passages.

Different than the "gum" , "varnish" of yesteryears fuel.

It requires mechanical means to remove it.
Solvents can not do it.
Ultrasonics can do SOME.
 
Have the carbs back off of my bike for another trip through the ultrasonic and manual cleaning with the suggested .016" wire through the passages, spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Can someone tell me what the small spring loaded buttons that you can depress are on the sides of the carbs? I have just now noticed them. Are they some sort of primer button?
 
quawk said:
Have the carbs back off of my bike for another trip through the ultrasonic and manual cleaning with the suggested .016" wire through the passages, spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Can someone tell me what the small spring loaded buttons that you can depress are on the sides of the carbs? I have just now noticed them. Are they some sort of primer button?
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Those would be ticklers.
 
quawk said:
Have the carbs back off of my bike for another trip through the ultrasonic and manual cleaning with the suggested .016" wire through the passages, spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Can someone tell me what the small spring loaded buttons that you can depress are on the sides of the carbs? I have just now noticed them. Are they some sort of primer button?
Click to expand...
You've got to check that carb cleaner/brake/cleaner etc can be seen to spray up thru the tiny two holes in the carb throat when sprayed in from either the mixture screw hole or the air intake passage at "front" side of carb intake opening (the rear-most end of the carb nearest the airbox, not engine side) or the fuel pickup hole on underside of carb body with bowl off. Best to hold a finger over the other two holes while spraying in the third hole, which ever you opt for. Should see spray up both tiny holes in carb throat (one either side of the throttle slide edge groove...so best done with slide removed). I also like to actually spray down from above into each of those two holes by carefully positioning the spray straw over one and watching the other, basically reverse flushing them. Tricky but comforting to see both are well clear.

In case you haven't yet done it, check that the balance hose is fitted on the two inlet manifold spigots and that it is clear and not leaking. This helps give smoother low rPM operation by helping to maintain some vacuum in the carb (therefore fuel levels in the pilot jet passages) when that side is not on intake stroke.
 
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L.A.B. said:
1973 Hi-rider no spark
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Ok I'm showing my ignorance here of these Amal carbs (first ones of these I've ever dealt with). Am I correct when I assume these "ticklers" depress the floats slightly to "flood the carburetors". Should these even been necessary in mild temps when starting, even if the engine is cold? Also I assume the "air control lever" operates as the "choke" on many other bikes. When started and running should the slides that the air control lever operates be in the raised or lowered position? As I said, I'm showing my ignorance here and these may sound like stupid questions to those of you who understand these carbs.
 
quawk said:
Ok I'm showing my ignorance here of these Amal carbs (first ones of these I've ever dealt with). Am I correct when I assume these "ticklers" depress the floats slightly to "flood the carburetors". Should these even been necessary in mild temps when starting, even if the engine is cold? Also I assume the "air control lever" operates as the "choke" on many other bikes. When started and running should the slides that the air control lever operates be in the raised or lowered position? As I said, I'm showing my ignorance here and these may sound like stupid questions.
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Perhaps save a lot of back & forth, tell us more about your skillset.
Motorcycle enthusiast?
New to all of it?
Jap bike experience?
Murrcan bikes?
German/Italian?
You have a bike lift, so, more than a mid-life crisis.
Car guy?
🤔
 
quawk said:
Ok I'm showing my ignorance here of these Amal carbs (first ones of these I've ever dealt with). Am I correct when I assume these "ticklers" depress the floats slightly to "flood the carburetors".
Click to expand...

Yes.

quawk said:
Should these even been necessary in mild temps when starting, even if the engine is cold?
Click to expand...

Yes, when the engine is cold.

quawk said:
Also I assume the "air control lever" operates as the "choke" on many other bikes. When started and running should the slides that the air control lever operates be in the raised or lowered position?
Click to expand...

Use as necessary (choke on is down so with a slack cable). Not always required.
 
concours said:
Perhaps save a lot of back & forth, tell us more about your skillset.
Motorcycle enthusiast?
New to all of it?
Jap bike experience?
Murrcan bikes?
German/Italian?
You have a bike lift, so, more than a mid-life crisis.
Car guy?
🤔
Click to expand...
Have had bikes (small displacement) since my early teen years and well before I had a driver's license. Am now well past "senior citizen status" here in the states. Have had many bikes of all displacements over the years, mostly Jap bikes (currently have a couple of Suzuki RE5s with Wankel rotary engines) and my share of the other Jap brands, but also Moto Guzzi, Rokon (Sachs engine), Rickman (with a Zundapp engine) even a Sear Allststate (Puch) as one of my first bikes. Have even wrenched on a couple of HDs (not impressed). Just never had a Brit bike. Have wrenched on just about anything with an engine and wheels. Made my living as a fork lift mechanic for 10+ years. Currently have my '57 chevy (owned for over 45 years) that I did an LS engine swap into last year as my winter project. Had a '66 chevy C10 pickup, that is now gone, that was sort of a rough driver, not really a rat rod but no pretty boy either. '68 Camaro as my first real car. I'm sure most members on here have a similar story so don't mean to be a bore. So no, not a mid-life crisis.
 
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quawk said:
Have had bikes (small displacement) since my early teen years and well before I had a driver's license. Am now well past "senior citizen status" here in the states. Have had many bikes of all displacements over the years, mostly Jap bikes (currently have a couple of Suzuki RE5s with Wankel rotary engines) and my share of the other Jap brands, but also Moto Guzzi, Rokon (Sachs engine), Rickman (with a Zundapp engine) even a Sear Allststate (Puch) as one of my first bikes. Have even wrenched on a couple of HDs (not impressed). Just never had a Brit bike. Have wrenched on just about anything with an engine a wheels. Made my living as a fork lift mechanic for 10+ years. Currently have my '57 chevy (owned for over 45 years) that I did an LS engine swap into last year as my winter project. Had a '66 chevy C10 pickup, that is now gone, that was sort of a rough driver, not really a rat rod but no pretty boy either. '68 Camaro as my first real car. I'm sure most members on here have a similar story so don't mean to be a bore. So no, not a mid-life crisis.
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Love it.
The motorhead affliction, there is no cure, and for that I'm grateful.
 
So, the tickler, holds the float down, that "floading" the float bowl, but most importantly, the fuel/air mixing chamber for the idle circuit that sits just on top of the bowl, and just under the carb throat.
So, it provides a rich mixture for starting.
The "choke" is generally used only when really cold, and then to KEEP the engine running after the initial fire on tickled mixture.
 
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concours said:
So, the tickler, holds the float down, that "floading" the float bowl, but most importantly, the fuel/air mixing chamber for the idle circuit that sits just on top of the bowl, and just under the carb throat.
So, it provides a rich mixture for starting.
The "choke" is generally used only when really cold, and then to KEEP the engine running after the initial fire on tickled mixture.
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+1. You really need to read the Riders Manual once you clean up these carbs. If you're going to leave carbs, ignition, pre Vernier ISO's and primary chain stock familiarize yourself with adjustments and periodic maintenance.
Norton Commandos have always required owner maintenance to optimize performance. Pretty much on par with your Chevy's of the same era.
My '55 Chevy with a '64 Corvette 327 and Isky cam kept me busy adjusting things.
 
Deckard said:
+1. You really need to read the Riders Manual once you clean up these carbs. If you're going to leave carbs, ignition, pre Vernier ISO's and primary chain stock familiarize yourself with adjustments and periodic maintenance.
Norton Commandos have always required owner maintenance to optimize performance. Pretty much on par with your Chevy's of the same era.
My '55 Chevy with a '64 Corvette 327 and Isky cam kept me busy adjusting things.
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I guess I do need to read the Rider's Manual 'cause I don't know what the Vernier ISO's are. Sounds like something on Star Trek. Maybe getting off track a bit here for a Norton forum, but I know a lot of guys, especially old guys (like me) want to stay stuck in the past, but if you wanted to leave your "adjusting things" behind, do an LS/Vortec swap into your '55. Get in, turn the key, it starts instantly, even after sitting all winter, no adjusting nothing, run the current crapiest gas and still get better mileage than your old small block. Just sayin'.
 
quawk said:
I guess I do need to read the Rider's Manual 'cause I don't know what the Vernier ISO's are. Sounds like something on Star Trek. Maybe getting off track a bit here for a Norton forum, but I know a lot of guys, especially old guys (like me) want to stay stuck in the past, but if you wanted to leave your "adjusting things" behind, do an LS/Vortec swap into your '55. Get in, turn the key, it starts instantly, even after sitting all winter, no adjusting nothing, run the current crapiest gas and still get better mileage than your old small block. Just sayin'.
Click to expand...
You have other options.....
1973 Hi-rider no spark
 
quawk said:
I guess I do need to read the Rider's Manual 'cause I don't know what the Vernier ISO's are. Sounds like something on Star Trek. Maybe getting off track a bit here for a Norton forum, but I know a lot of guys, especially old guys (like me) want to stay stuck in the past, but if you wanted to leave your "adjusting things" behind, do an LS/Vortec swap into your '55. Get in, turn the key, it starts instantly, even after sitting all winter, no adjusting nothing, run the current crapiest gas and still get better mileage than your old small block. Just sayin'.
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Now you're getting there. Vernier Isolastic mounts are adjustable vs. what you have now. They have to be shimmed. Easy to convert the front one that usually needs adjusting more often. Not so easy for the rear. Properly adjusted ISO's make a Commando handle as well as was designed. You've overcome the dated ignition, but may want to convert to electronic eventually. Like your LS, makes starting and running simpler.
Hopefully, you can salvage that carb. Once you're riding and putting it away for the season, you'll need to drain the fuel or there will be corrosion in the bowls and elsewhere. At least your year should have the drain plugs in the bowls.
The '55 is just a memory now, I sold it in '70, joined the Navy to avoid being drafted and bought the '71 Commando while on a cruise in the Mediterranean. So the Chevy did morph into another hot rod. Sure did stop and corner a lot better though. 😎
 
quawk said:
You know you picked the right gas station when it has a "Fishing Supplies" sign above the door, a steer on the roof, and a "sittin' " chair out front.
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No gas tho....🤔
Nice lady gave the history of the lumber mill town.😎
Modern push button EFI vs Amal with tickler.

Neither gave us trouble.
 
concours said:
No gas tho....🤔
Nice lady gave the history of the lumber mill town.😎
Modern push button EFI vs Amal with tickler.

Neither gave us trouble.
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"No gas tho..." , minor detail. Seems they had everything but. Hope you guys weren't nearly out and running on fumes.
 
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