1973 Hi-rider no spark

I've had a quick read about grit types for emery.
It seems there are at least two common types of grit used, Aluminium Oxide and Silicone Carbide.
Both are classed as insulators. With that knowledge and my recent experience, the points file is still the favourite, clumsy as it is to use in situ.

Glen
 
MichaelB said:
The right side 3 position paddle is the turn signal.
Click to expand...
Yes, 3-position paddle is for turn signals.

Right side: For his bike, probably true. If built before late-72 and not changed, false. If I built the bike (I didn't) unless begged by the new owner, definitely false :D

I detest the concept of using my right hand to control the turn signals in general, and definitely while controlling the throttle. Left hand has nothing to do except the clutch most of the time. Besides every car I've ever driven had the turn signal controlled by the left hand and every Triumph and BSA is controlled by the left hand.

See:
https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/SR/N3_03.aspx
and
https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/SR/N3_40.aspx
 
If you haven't already, remove the tank and seat and look over the wiring.
Looking for burnt or compromised connections, specifically at the ground at the head Steady.
Confirm engine is grounded.
Check for 12v at power side of resistor. Should have approx 6v on coil side.
If no power, time to trouble shoot. The kill switch at the handlebar is a trouble some spot.
Source a schematic if you haven't.
Basically, White wire leaves ignition switch to large connector under tank, another white wire exits and goes to kill,
White/Yellow leaves kill that connects to White/Blue that goes to Ballast.
 
marshg246 said:
Right side: For his bike, probably true. If built before late-72 and not changed, false. If I built the bike (I didn't) unless begged by the new owner, definitely false
Click to expand...

They were changed the other way.

Handlebar Switches

So my Commando manual, section J19, shows that the left hand handlebar switch cluster has the horn button at the bottom and other buttons for headlamp functions. The right hand switch cluster has the kill button at the bottom and the turn signal switch. A note states that “these clusters may be...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

"As a direct result of user requests for right hand operation of the direction
indicators, the decision has been taken to interchange the left and right hand switch
clusters."
 
L.A.B. said:
They were changed the other way.

Handlebar Switches

So my Commando manual, section J19, shows that the left hand handlebar switch cluster has the horn button at the bottom and other buttons for headlamp functions. The right hand switch cluster has the kill button at the bottom and the turn signal switch. A note states that “these clusters may be...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Click to expand...
I know, I even linked the services releases that announced it!
 
L.A.B. said:
They were changed the other way.

Handlebar Switches

So my Commando manual, section J19, shows that the left hand handlebar switch cluster has the horn button at the bottom and other buttons for headlamp functions. The right hand switch cluster has the kill button at the bottom and the turn signal switch. A note states that “these clusters may be...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

"As a direct result of user requests for right hand operation of the direction
indicators, the decision has been taken to interchange the left and right hand switch
clusters."
Click to expand...
And owners can swap the switch clusters to either side fairly easily. One of the first things I did for the reasons Greg mentions, left hand much better for turn signal controls. I also moved the kill switch to upper left switch and horn lower left, to be more in line with my other modern bike.
 
Hey Quawk,
Another reason fairly common but I didn’t see mention is lack of electrical contact on the kill button. This is a normally closed contact and if corrosion or a grain of sand prevents the contact….no flame.
 
Time to get your trusty test lamp and/or mutlimeter out and start probing around to find the fault(s).
Does power reach coils? Do coils have good primary/secondary resistances as spec'd in the Workshop manual? Power to breakers? Ignition switch issues? Poor grounding? HT leads, caps and splugs ok?
 
While the tank is off have a close look at the multi-block connector where the front / rear harness meet - the connections there are notorious and benefit from a look and mild clean. Mindful of your desire to stay under budget, I would scrap the points for now and get a Boyer or similar electronic ignition to save you a world of tears - the points system requires separate adjustment of each point and it can be laborious where an electronic system lets you move to other worries. The layshaft bearing (my kickstart did "catch") was my first wary step into wrenching my bike and I became less fearful and more assertive in working on every bike after my first Norton.

Great to see you diving in and I am learning over your shoulder so thank you! Do take pics and consider a parallel thread in the Restorations forum? Also, take advantage of the tech tips from Old Britts and other listed in this forum they are invaluable. You have to marinate yourself in the cult but I can tell you once you have a working Commando it's the last bike you will ever sell in your collection - the ride, the torque and pull, the sound! Magnificent. Best of luck!
 
ILLF8ED said:
Hey Quawk,
Another reason fairly common but I didn’t see mention is lack of electrical contact on the kill button. This is a normally closed contact and if corrosion or a grain of sand prevents the contact….no flame.
Click to expand...
Use a test lead from battery to ignition to bypass & test.
 
L.A.B. said:
No, the bottom button on the right cluster should be the kill switch.
Owners
1973 Hi-rider no spark

Servicing and repair

Parts.
Click to expand...
L.A.B. said:
No, the bottom button on the right cluster should be the kill switch.
Owners
1973 Hi-rider no spark

Servicing and repair

Parts.
Click to expand...
Well Quawk, LAB did you a solid with all the reference docs you should have now if you're going to own a Commando. All of us have found our way with these.
BTW, it's not just UK motorcycles that have positive ground. All the sports cars of that era are also positive grounded. MG's, Austin Healy's, Triumphs, Jaguars, etc.
As in life, there will always be exceptions, but there are publications to read.
 
Just an update after finishing wrenching for the day. Happy to report that after several fixes, namely cleaning points with a points file, repairing a broken sta-con terminal on one of the coils, and doing some wiggling of wires and wire harness and connections, I now have spark to both cylinders, and upon putting some fuel in the tank and using some starting fluid, the bike is now "wanting" to start. It is firing sometimes but just once or twice. I feel I'm definitely close to starting. The fiberglass tank is, unfortunately, leaking. I'm not really surprised. I realize these old fiberglass tanks are prone to leaking. I did remove the tank to look over the wiring. My ignition switch will need replaced as you have to push in on the key for the contacts inside to make when turned to the run position. When turning it to the various positions, it just feels worn out and the various stops/positions feel vague. My next move is to remove the carbs, take them apart and see how they look. For a day of work, if feel the progress was rewarding. Thanks to all who have responded with help and advice.
 
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quawk said:
Just an update after finishing wrenching for the day. Happy to report that after several fixes, namely cleaning points with a points file, repairing a broken sta-con terminal on one of the coils, and doing some wiggling of wires and wire harness and connections, I now have spark to both cylinders, and upon putting some fuel in the tank and using some starting fluid, the bike is now "wanting" to start. It is firing sometimes but just once or twice. I feel I'm definitely close to starting. The fiberglass tank is, unfortunately, leaking. I'm not really surprised. I realize these old fiberglass tanks are prone to leaking. I did remove the tank to look over the wiring. My ignition switch will need replaced as you have to push in on the key for the contacts inside to make when turned to the run position. When turning it to the various positions, it just feels worn out and the various stops/positions feel vague. My next move is to remove the carbs, take them apart and see how they look. For a day of work, if feel the progress was rewarding. Thanks to all who have responded with help and advice.
Click to expand...
If your glass tank is already leaking, it sounds like it’s already degrading and / or dissolving. If so, I’d urge you to stop using it. You are more than likely pulling dissolved resin through the system and damaging your carbs, valves, etc. Just not worth it.
 
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Triton Thrasher said:
Yes, if you go into it too far, you find that nobody is even sure what an electron is, so it’s maybe a bit pointless arguing that “electron flow” is more valid than “conventional current,” on an old bike.
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The cathode (negative) has an excess of electrons which dischrage positive metal ions. Positive metal ions can be created at the anode (positive) which removes electrons. In plating baths, positive ions migrate from anode to cathode. Often the anode is sacrificed, hower positive ions can also be added to plating baths in the form of salts which dissociate. When you get corrosion, it matters which side of the corrosion cell has which polarity. The anode is usually where most pitting occurs. With metals, there is an electrochemical series which assists in getting things right - the noble metals are at the top, the botton is probably zinc.
 
Fast Eddie said:
If your glass tank is already leaking, it sounds like it’s already degrading and / or dissolving. If so, I’d urge you to stop using it. You are more than likely pulling dissolved resin through the system and damaging your carbs, valves, etc. Just not worth it.
Click to expand...
If you clean it out with acetone, you can probably get expoxy resin to stick to the polyester the tank is probably made of.
 
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