1973 Hi-rider no spark

I'd say you're on the right track with the carb strip being next on the list.
The Pilot jet orifices block for fun (easy fix - remove pilot screw & prod the dirt out with fine wire), and as Fast Eddie says, they'll likely be gummed up with dissolved polyester resin, so ditch the fibreglass tank in favour of steel - Emgo are very good as Kommando says - if you can't find a decent original one. Lots of Indian ones on evilbay, lots of differing experiences too, since they're cheap for a reason.
I know you're just at the exploring stage at the moment, but...
Some folks still use and swear by the points ignition, but considering the likelihood of wear on the advance/retard unit, tired capacitors & points, etc., most people elect to go for an Electronic Ignition. Cheaper ones - Vape/Boyer/Pazon - function just fine.
If you're looking for a reliable rider, consider a new wiring harness & ignition switch too. The handlebar switches can be rebuilt.
 
Fast Eddie said:
If your glass tank is already leaking, it sounds like it’s already degrading and / or dissolving. If so, I’d urge you to stop using it. You are more than likely pulling dissolved resin through the system and damaging your carbs, valves, etc. Just not worth it.
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If you clean it out with acetone, you can probably get expoxy resin to stick to the polyester the tank is probably made of.
 
quawk said:
Just an update after finishing wrenching for the day. Happy to report that after several fixes, namely cleaning points with a points file, repairing a broken sta-con terminal on one of the coils, and doing some wiggling of wires and wire harness and connections, I now have spark to both cylinders, and upon putting some fuel in the tank and using some starting fluid, the bike is now "wanting" to start. It is firing sometimes but just once or twice. I feel I'm definitely close to starting. The fiberglass tank is, unfortunately, leaking. I'm not really surprised. I realize these old fiberglass tanks are prone to leaking. I did remove the tank to look over the wiring. My ignition switch will need replaced as you have to push in on the key for the contacts inside to make when turned to the run position. When turning it to the various positions, it just feels worn out and the various stops/positions feel vague. My next move is to remove the carbs, take them apart and see how they look. For a day of work, if feel the progress was rewarding. Thanks to all who have responded with help and advice.
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Good progress.

The ignition switches are easy to open up, clean up/repair.

I've done a couple.
 
kommando said:
Once that dissolved tank resin starts sticking to the inlet valve stems bad things happen resulting in a lot of extra work costing more than a new steel tank.
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On my bike, resin was causing the throttle slide of the Mikuni to stick in a slightly open position, not fun when needing/wanting to slow down or stop. The brand new Emgo steel tank I got is a great fit even if the fuel outlets are in a slightly different position.
 
Deckard said:
Well Quawk, LAB did you a solid with all the reference docs you should have now if you're going to own a Commando. All of us have found our way with these.
BTW, it's not just UK motorcycles that have positive ground. All the sports cars of that era are also positive grounded. MG's, Austin Healy's, Triumphs, Jaguars, etc.
As in life, there will always be exceptions, but there are publications to read.
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Until now, I had never owned a UK motorcycle, nor any of the British cars you mentioned.
 
quawk said:
If by indicators you mean turn signals, no, it does not.
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There are many terms that are different between the British and Americans. Although this is a US hosted site, it's about British motorcycles. If you look at the top of this forum you'll see a "Technical Information" thread. there is a translation table in that. It is useful and fun to read through that. In the various manuals, you can't count on which terms will be used as the US was a big market.

It took me a long time in the 60s to figure out how I could clean parts with paraffin. To Americans, that's wax. To British, that's kerosene.
 
Can someone recommend or know the correct replacement spark plug for these bikes? The plugs that are in it are Champion N-7Y. Upon checking around to all the local auto parts stores, none are stocking that plug or NGK alternative BP7ES. Some do stock an Autolite 63, but a cross reference chart that I'm looking at does not show that as an alternative plug. It does show an Autolite 62 as an alternative but the stores aren't stocking that one either. Are these plugs that uncommon? I'm sure I can find them online, but I'd like to just pick up a couple locally.
 
NGK have stopped making non resistor plugs, so the resistor version BPR7ES is the only one now made.
 
I’m currently running the Champion N7YC plugs with good results. Currently available from Mud Creek Mechanics on ebay. I’ve also found (and have in reserve) the NGK non resistor BP7ES NOS on ebay before. Bosch probably has an equivalent also, but it might be a resistor plug. (Although it seems like I might have gotten some Bosch non resistor types for my airhead in the recent past.)
 
luckyed said:
I’m currently running the Champion N7YC plugs with good results. Currently available from Mud Creek Mechanics on ebay. I’ve also found (and have in reserve) the NGK non resistor BP7ES NOS on ebay before. Bosch probably has an equivalent also, but it might be a resistor plug. (Although it seems like I might have gotten some Bosch non resistor types for my airhead in the recent past.)
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Thanks for the response. After making many phone calls to the local parts stores, I went ahead and ordered some Champion N-7Y plugs from a seller on Ebay. I know a lot of guys condemn Ebay, but sometimes they are one of the few, if not the only place you can find some things. Can I ask how the N7YC differs from the N-7Y?
 
They are the same plug, they just added the C a long time ago, for some reason all plug manufacture are no longer making non resistor plugs, when I heard this I stocked up on my N7YC plugs and should out last me, with my Joe Hunt magneto I get long life out of my plugs.
Its always wise to pull old Amals down when they have sat for so long, I just gone back to using my Amals after using PWK carbs for over 10 years with more trouble than they were worth, before putting the Amals back on I pulled them down and soaked then in vinegar for a few days and found the left carb pilot jet was completely blocked.
 
I ordered NGK BP7ES plugs advertised by a vendor through Amazon. I received NGK BPR7ES. They seem to work fine.
 
Don't fear resistor plugs. Basically, all modern car and bikes required them, and they will work fine in our old bikes. The resistor does not affect the heat range or anything else - it just reduces electrical noise.

Norton specifies a gap range of .023" to .028". Lucas, Triumph and others say .025". I use .025". NGK plugs come with a larger gap and need to be adjusted.
 
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