1973 Hi-rider no spark

Deckard said:
Now you're getting there. Vernier Isolastic mounts are adjustable vs. what you have now. They have to be shimmed. Easy to convert the front one that usually needs adjusting more often. Not so easy for the rear. Properly adjusted ISO's make a Commando handle as well as was designed. You've overcome the dated ignition, but may want to convert to electronic eventually. Like your LS, makes starting and running simpler.
Hopefully, you can salvage that carb. Once you're riding and putting it away for the season, you'll need to drain the fuel or there will be corrosion in the bowls and elsewhere. At least your year should have the drain plugs in the bowls.
The '55 is just a memory now, I sold it in '70, joined the Navy to avoid being drafted and bought the '71 Commando while on a cruise in the Mediterranean. So the Chevy did morph into another hot rod. Sure did stop and corner a lot better though. 😎
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No big deal, but no drain plugs on the fuel bowls on my bike. While on the subject of fuel, these bikes are old enough that I would assume it's recommended to use higher octane/no ethanol gasoline. Also It looks like the fuel supply line(s) from the tank to the carbs are an assembly and you'd have to replace the entire assembly if you've got a leaker, correct? Also about the overcoming the dated ignition you mention, is my bike new enough ('73) that it had a better/upgraded ignition compared to previous years? Even long, long ago before ever considering getting a Brit bike, I had heard the brand Boyer for replacement ignition on them.
 
www.summitracing.com

Motion Pro 12-0052 Motion Pro Tygon Fuel Lines | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Motion Pro Tygon Fuel Lines with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Powersports Fuel Lines at Summit Racing.
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Points.


Several EI conversions available.


You can buy new bowls, with drains, but, first evaluate the carbs, they may be well worn, ready for replacement. (It's an Amal thing)


Yes, premium fuel.

Non-E is only an issue if you have a fiberglass tank, or store the bike more than a few weeks
 
concours said:
www.summitracing.com

Motion Pro 12-0052 Motion Pro Tygon Fuel Lines | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Motion Pro Tygon Fuel Lines with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Powersports Fuel Lines at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

Points.


Several EI conversions available.


You can buy new bowls, with drains, but, first evaluate the carbs, they may be well worn, ready for replacement. (It's an Amal thing)


Yes, premium fuel.

Non-E is only an issue if you have a fiberglass tank, or store the bike more than a few weeks
Click to expand...
About the Motion Pro fuel line you linked to, that line would need to go on a barbed end fitting. My lines have crimped on swivel fittings at both the tank (threaded connectors) and carb bowl to the filtered inlets with the though banjo bolt.
 
quawk said:
About the Motion Pro fuel line you linked to, that line would need to go on a barbed end fitting. My lines have crimped on swivel fittings at both the tank (threaded connectors) and carb bowl to the filtered inlets with the though banjo bolt.
Click to expand...

So, you can remove the old line and re-use the fittings.
 
Yeah, you have a fiberglass tank and if it's ever tasted E fuel, can't be sealed successfully. Good aftermarket metal tanks available. Good OEM tanks are a crap shoot. Plenty of threads here about that. Roadster style an easy upgrade for more capacity.
Unless you have access to non E fuel, I wouldn't use that tank any more. Engine damage will occur.

Since I was preaching the Riders Manual, I didn't see it referenced in this thread, so here's the Link:

It was in the Technical Info section in the Forum header in the Classic Bike section.
 
L.A.B. said:
So, you can remove the old line and re-use the fittings.
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I guess I'm not making myself clear, but as I mentioned, my fuel line assembly has crimped on swivel fitting ends, so you simply can't just replace the line itself, and slide it into the fittings. It also has a crossover line between the two carbs that goes from one fuel inlet at the carb bowl to the other one. Is this unusual for these bikes? The whole assembly makes kind of a U shape (the old line itself is hard after all these years of course) and goes from one tank petcock to the carb on that side, then from one inlet over to the other inlet, and from the other carb back up to the petcock on the other side of the tank. This is one of those times that being able to post a pic would explain better than words.
 
quawk said:
I guess I'm not making myself clear, but as I mentioned, my fuel line assembly has crimped on swivel fitting ends, so you simply can't just replace the line itself, and slide it into the fittings. It also has a crossover line between the two carbs that goes from one fuel inlet at the carb bowl to the other one. Is this unusual for these bikes? The whole assembly makes kind of a U shape (the old line itself is hard after all these years of course) and goes from one tank petcock to the carb on that side, then from one inlet over to the other inlet, and from the other carb back up to the petcock on the other side of the tank. This is one of those times that being able to post a pic would explain better than words.
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It is simple to answer such questions yourself! Go to: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawings/4 Choose your bike and look at the pictures.

There are two factory fuel lines. "H" type and the type you have.
 
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quawk said:
I guess I'm not making myself clear, but as I mentioned, my fuel line assembly has crimped on swivel fitting ends, so you simply can't just replace the line itself, and slide it into the fittings.
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You don't have to re-crimp the fittings although they are available.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk

quawk said:
It also has a crossover line between the two carbs that goes from one fuel inlet at the carb bowl to the other one. Is this unusual for these bikes?
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No, that's the correct original 'H' line.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/15631/fuel-pipe-assembly-h-style-1968-to-1973-
 
L.A.B. said:
You don't have to re-crimp the fittings although they are available.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk



No, that's the correct original 'H' line.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/15631/fuel-pipe-assembly-h-style-1968-to-1973-
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From his description, I think he has: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/16457/fuel-pipe-assembly-1974-onwards-
 
L.A.B. said:
Maybe. If so that's the later line and not the original.
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So if the link that marshg246 posted is correct, (and it is the supply line on my bike), then that type is actually for a later year and not original? Is see the heading indicateds it's for 1974 onward. (Mine's a '73).
 
quawk said:
So if the link that marshg246 posted is correct, and it is the supply line on my bike, then that type is actually for a later year and not original?
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Yes, but the same applies. Cut the old line off and re-use the fittings.
 
quawk said:
So if the link that marshg246 posted is correct, (and it is the supply line on my bike), then that type is actually for a later year and not original? Is see the heading indicateds it's for 1974 onward. (Mine's a '73).
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Yes, but either work. Some like the older type some the newer.
 
Further update on progress on my 1973 750 Hi-Rider: after the carbs taking another trip through the ultrasonic, more wire throught the passages, more spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Reassembed and back on the bike. After explaination of the carb ticklers, and air control lever and slides by members (Thanks to all who've helped and given advice) The bike is now starting and running well. May take a little more fine tuning to get it spot on, but am happy with the further progress. Will need to address the slight seeping of fuel as was addressed in the posts above. I know this is just the start of a long process but at least am moving forward. Again, thanks for all the help. Another question, What was the intended use of the accessory plug, as they called it, on the right side of the bike below the oil tank?
 
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quawk said:
What was the intended use of the accessory plug, as they called it, on the right side of the bike below the oil tank?
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Ahhh... the shaver socket!

Seriously... It's great that you're making headway with the bike - some folks would have walked away by now, but you're showing all the right attributes for Norton ownership 👍
The socket was originally supplied with a mating plug for any 12V widget the owner felt would be useful, but nothing specific was provided by the factory.
 
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B+Bogus said:
Ahhh... the shaver socket!

Seriously... It's great that you're making headway with the bike - some folks would have walked away by now, but you're showing all the right attributes for Norton ownership 👍
The socket was originally supplied with a mating plug for any 12V widget the owner felt would be useful, but nothing specific was provided by the factory.
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Shaver socket??? Really??? Believe it or not, the one on my bike actually works. "Walked away by now"? No chance. Although I know it looks like I've asked a lot of questions, I knew what I was in for when I purchased this thing. I've brought "back from the dead" other bikes that were more oddball, rare, and complex than this one. That said, it still takes time, thought and work to resurrect just about any old (50+ years now for this one) bike that's been a "sitter" for an extended period of time.
 
quawk said:
Shaver socket??? Really??? Believe it or not, the one on my bike actually works. "Walked away by now"? No chance. Although I know it looks like I've asked a lot of questions, I knew what I was in for when I purchased this thing. I've brought "back from the dead" other bikes that were more oddball, rare, and complex than this one. That said, it still takes time, thought and work to resurrect just about any old (50+ years now for this one) bike that's been a "sitter" for an extended period of time.
Click to expand...
Just make sure the shaver is positive earth!
 
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